HORIZONTAL TASTING OF CHAMAPAGNE vintage 2004

Les Enfants Du Champagne met on January 28 of this year, at the Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, to have a first horizontal tasting of champagnes, from the 2004 vintage.

2004 was considered a good year like 2006, a higher step, and 2008, considered the top of the three vintages. Guest of the evening was Sergio Antonini, importer in Italy of J. de Telmont champagne. The tasting – dinner, would have been bandaged, with the exception of the first and last bottles which were in magnum format, unlike the others which were in normal format. At the last moment, the “Belle Epoque blanc de Blancs” 2004 from Maison Perrier Jouet was also blindfolded. In total, fifteen champagnes were drunk.

On the evening of the dinner we found ourselves, excited, as always, in the renewed cellar of the Enoteca Pinchiorri to enjoy a magnum bottle of Dom Perignon, vintage 2004, savoring pleasant appetizers. Present at the evening were all eight Les enfants du champagne and Sergio Antonini.

The Champagnes were served with a bottle cover so as not to be able to identify them. Two champagnes were served with each course of food, except for the last two courses with which the 2004 Telmont Grand Vintage magnum was served.

Telmont OR 1735 and Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Millenaires were served with “red prawn tails, colonnata lard strips, saffron rice sauce and crispy shallots”. Following the “Turbot steak, stuffed with stewed rays, and then fried, black cabbage and almond cream” combined with Krug Clos du Mesnil and the Salon. Two great champagnes!

The third course was: “Agnolotti with white potatoes and stewed ossobuco raviolini, veal sauce and Parmigiano Reggiano fondue”, combined with Gaston Chiquet, special Club and Pommery Cuvée Louise. After a short stop we were served a delicious “spaghettone cacio, pepe e citrus” accompanied by Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque and Louis Roederer Cuvée Cristal. With the “bread and sauce” we pleasantly wet our mouth with Gosset Celebris and Bruno Paillaard N.P.U., a truly memorable dinner for the pleasantness of the dishes and of course also the champagnes. The next dish was: “boneless and glazed guinea fowl with olives, savoy cabbage and sage anchovy”, combined with Veuve Clicquot La grande Dame and Bollinger R.D ..

The “Sole Meunier” married to the Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque blanc de blancs was served off the menu. I found this 2004 clearly superior to 2002 which I have always felt short in its gustatory persistence.

Finally we were served the Magnmont Champagne Telmont Grand Vintage which was paired with: “Caramelized dark chocolate cream, yogurt, late radicchio ice cream and vanilla”. Perfect combination!

After this last course we commented on the various bottles tasted and drunk and praised all the kitchen staff for the pleasant dishes served.

The service of the Champagnes was perfect both for the temperature and for the sommeliers who were, as always, highly professional. I was personally followed by the good Davide D’alterio. A big thank you to Giorgio Pinchiorri and Alessandro Tomberli, general manager, to chefs Riccardo Monco and Alessandro Della Tommasina and to pastry chef Francesco Federici who with their skill have enchanted our palate.

The last to leave the Enoteca were me and Valerio Mearini, who sat down in the smoking lounge-bar to smoke a Partagas cigar n. 4, combined with a pleasant Rum Demerara from 1980. it was a wonderful evening!

Follow the notes of champagnes tasted and drunk with the ratings of Les enfants du champagne only.

DOM PERIGNON BRUT, Vintage 2004

(Magnum format)

(Grapes: 53% Pinot Noir and 47% Chardonnay)

It shines intense straw yellow with golden reflections.

The bubbles are fine and quite numerous.

Smell with intense aromas of flint (silex), popcorn, coconut glue (almond and coconut milk), cotton starch and blond leather, ending with hints of Marseille soap.

On the palate the body is initially medium, but abundant is the freshness that dominates, spectacularly the alcoholic mass. Flavors of silex and brewer’s yeast. The gustative persistence is long thanks to the freshness that replaces the body that goes to thin. This 2004 is as I remembered it in terms of persistence and it reminds me, therefore, also the vintages 2003 and 2005.

                                                                                                                                  (93/100)

For the note of coconut glue it reminds me of the “Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore” in which this note is always present.

J. de Telmont or 1735, Vintage 2004

Grand Cru Brut – Blanc de Blancs

(Grapes: 100% Chardonnay)

Bright straw yellow dress with golden reflections, while the bubbles are very fine and quite numerous.

Olfactory profile with aromas of honey, ripe rennet apple, sweet of the outer part of the sugared almond, blond leather, coconut glue (coconut milk and almond), light zabaglione, melted butter, ripe jujube, to end with intense puffs of hard shell of almond.

On the palate it shows a copious acidity and is sapid and mineral.

The body is medium but goes a little way and remains persistent to the taste thanks to the freshness. Well balanced wine with a light zabaglione finish.

This champagne, with this bottle, went towards ripening notes. Each bottle has its own story.

(91/100)

CHARLES HEIDSIECK – BLANC des

Millenaires – Brut – Blanc de Blancs, Vintage 2004

(Grapes: 100% Chardonnay)

Straw yellow dress with gold reflections. The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous.

Nose satisfied by aromas of pastry, light white pepper, starch from the warm cloth just ironed, graphite, slightly ripe renetta apple, ending with whispers of peanut butter.

On the palate the mouth is caressed by a fine bubble. Flavors reminiscent of pastry and a little ripe renetta apple. The body is medium and tends to thin. Well balanced wine with freshness, which dominates the alcoholic mass. Long, but not very long, is its gustatory persistence with a lemon finish.

(92/100)

KRUG CLOS DU MESNIL – GRAND CRU

Brut – Blanc de Blancs, Vintage 2004

(Grapes: 100% Chardonnay)

Mix of straw yellow and shiny golden yellow.

The bubbles are fine and numerous.

Nuances of pastry, honey, juniper berry, intense hard shell of almond. Finale of coccoin glue (coconut milk and almond).

On the palate it is sapid and mineral with a juniper berry flavor. The body is medium and the wine is well balanced thanks also to the generous freshness that completely dominates the alcoholic mass. Its persistence is long with a finish of juniper berry (perfume equal to that of shoe wax in the metal package).

(95/100)

SALON CUVEE ‘S-GRAND CRU BRUT

BLANC DE BLANCS, VINTAGE 2004

(Grapes: 100% Chardonnay)

Straw yellow and gold color with fairly fine and quite numerous bubbles.

The olfactory approach reveals aromas of talcum powder, renetta apple, lavender, hard shell of almond, Marseille soap, mineral, to end with a pink grapefruit murmur.

On the palate it is fine and elegant, sapid, mineral with delicate bubbles.

The body is medium even if in the final it tends to thin. Balanced wine with the freshness that dominates the alcoholic mass, thanks also to the sapidity and minerality.

Long is its gustatory persistence with a finish of hard almond shell.

(94/100)

GASTON CHIQUET – SPECIAL CLUB – BRUT, Vintage 2004

(Grapes: 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay)

Straw yellow with golden highlights. The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous.

The olfactory examination highlighted an intense note of grated apple renetta followed by the hard shell of almond and the broken stem of the cyclamen.

Mouth enchanted by a pleasant apple renetta and fine bubbles.

Medium bodied, sapid and mineral wine.

Good gustatory balance, thanks to a generous and lively freshness, which does not make the alcoholic mass feel. Its gustatory persistence is long with a slightly and pleasantly sweet finish.

(94/100)

POMMERY – CUVẺE LOUISE BRUT NATURE, VINTAGE 2004

(Grapes: 65% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot Noir)

A straw yellow with gold textures shines.

The bubbles are very fine and quite numerous.

From the glass aromas of macerated raspberry, ripe banana, Marseille soap, hard shell of almond, floral, fresh celery and parsley spread in the air.

On the palate the bubbles are quite fine. Well balanced wine thanks to the freshness that exceeds the alcohol content. The body is initially medium but it goes to thinning fast enough. Its gustatory persistence is long but not very long.

(92/100)

PERRIER JOUET – BELLE EPOQUE BRUT Vintage 2004

(Grapes: 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier)

Straw yellow and gold with very fine and quite numerous bubbles.

Olfactory richness made of perfumes of pastry, ripe apple renetta, hard shell of almond, citrus fruits, light zabaglione, toasted salted almond, to end with references of juniper berry.

In the mouth it is pleasant, elegant, savory, mineral and with fine bubbles. The body is medium, well balanced with the imperceptible alcoholic mass, thanks to its freshness, flavor and minerality.

Its gustatory persistence is long with a juniper berry finish.

(95/100)

LOUISE ROEDERER-CRISTAL-BRUT, Vintage 2004

(Grapes: 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir)

Shining straw yellow with golden glares. The bubbles are fine and quite numerous.

The nose evokes aromas of talcum powder, intense of hard shell of almond, minerals, citrus fruits, fresh celery, parsley, with final pats of pastry.

Fine, elegant body with fine bubbles.

Balanced wine thanks to the abundant freshness, which does not make the alcoholic mass feel.

Long is its gustatory persistence with a finish of hard almond shell.

(94/100)

GOSSET CELEBRIS – GRAND CRU EXTRA BRUT, Vintage 2004

(Grapes: 52% Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir)

Straw yellow with gold textures. The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous.

The olfactory profile opens with aromas of hard almond shell, citrus peel, white pepper, grated orange peel, light honey, to end with hints of broken cyclamen stem.

The taste of honey explodes on the palate. The bubbles are fine and the wine has a medium body and is balanced, thanks to the abundant freshness. Long is its gustatory persistence with a honey finish.

In my notes I wrote: it is a little coarse, it is not fine and elegant but it is rich in acidity.

(93/100)

BRUNO PAILLARD N.P.U. “Nec plus ultra”, Grand Cru, Extra Brut, Vintage 2004

(Grapes: 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay)

It shines straw yellow and gold with very fine and numerous bubbles.

Pastry scents, hard almond shell, to end with hints reminiscent of the rubber of the inner tube of the bicycle wheels.

The taste is pleasant, elegant, sapid and mineral and the bubbles are fine. Intense flavor of hard almond shell. The body is medium and the wine is well balanced. Long is its gustatory persistence with a finish of hard almond shell. In the end I felt the upper gum dry a little. (tannins?).

(93/100)

VEUVE CLICQUOT – LA GRAND DAME, GRAND CRU – BRUT, Vintage 2004

(Grapes: 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay)

It shines straw yellow with slight golden reflections. The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous.

Bouquet made of pastry scents, intense peanut butter, juniper berry, fresh blond leather, light zabaglione, to end with sighs of broken cyclamen stem.

Sip characterized by flavor, minerality and slight zabaglione.

The bubbles are fine and the body is medium. Well balanced wine with the freshness that dominates the alcoholic mass. Long is its gustatory persistence. In the end I felt the upper gum dry slightly (tannins?).

(93/100)

BOLLINGER R.D. Extra Brut, Vintage 2004

(Grapes: 63% Pinot Noir and 37% Chardonnay)

It shines a bright yellow. The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous.

Scents of chalk, boisé, light zabaglione, sweets from the outside of the confetti, to end with caresses of green pepper.

The body is medium in taste and the bubbles are fine. Balanced wine with freshness highlighted on the alcoholic mass. Long but not very long is its gustatory persistence with a boisé finish. You can feel the presence of the wood tannins that dry the upper gum a little.

(92/100)

PERRIER JOUET – BELLE EPOQUE BLANC DE BLANCS – GRAND CRU-BRUT, Vintage 2004

(Grapes: 100% chardonnay)

Beautiful and shiny light gold yellow.

The bubbles are fine and quite numerous.

On the nose it expresses intense pastry aromas followed by fresh leather (the blond ones), peel of citrus fruits, minerals, white pepper and licorice.

The bubbles are fine on the palate.

Medium bodied, fine and elegant wine.

The mouth is embraced by a pleasant and generous freshness that completely covers the alcoholic mass. Long is its gustatory persistence.

This 2004 has nothing to do with 2002, which I remember very short on the palate.

(95/100)

J. DE TELMONT, GRAND VINTAGE-BRUT, VINTAGE 2004

(Grapes: 34% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir and 33% Pinot Meunier)

 Shiny golden yellow dress with fairly fine and quite numerous bubbles.

From the glass emerge intense scents of mineral (flint) and freshly made popcorn. The olfactory path continues with tones of peanut butter, hard shell of mandrola, fresh celery, iodine, blond leather, spray starch (for ironing), vanilla and toasted salted almond.

On the palate it is an explosion of flavor and minerality. The body is medium and the bubbles are fine. Well balanced wine with the freshness, flavor and minerality that dominate the alcoholic mass. Flavors of popcorn, melted butter and flint that remain throughout its persistence.

(94/100)

As proof that each bottle has its own history, there is the fact that this champagne, always in magnum format, was tasted by me again a month ago and it turned out differently in a positive way. Great champagne to which I gave, only me, for this second bottle

(98/100)

For the notes of popcorn and minerality felt in this champagne and in the Dom Perignon they reminded me of the Batard Montrachet of the Domaine de la Romanée Conti of the 2007 vintage.