“Marchesi Gondi – Tenuta Bossi is an agricultural company with 315 hectares of land of which 20 hectares of vineyards, 32 hectares of olive groves and land dedicated to woods and cereals.
The estate is located in the Chianti Rufina denomination and has been owned by the Gondi family since 1592.
The most important vineyard of the company is the “Poggio Diamante” planted by Marie de Labrugiére Gondi, mother of Carlo Gondi who in 1878 participated in the Paris Expo and won many prizes and recognitions with his wines.
The vineyards range from 250 to 550 meters above sea level and the soils are composed of marl, clay and limestone sediments which give the wine the mineral note of graphite.
In past years, Rufina wines were wines made with grapes that took a long time to ripen, were generally very acidic and had tannins that remained a little green.
To drink a good glass of Chianti Rufina you had to wait until the wine was at least twenty-thirty years old.
With climate change, the Chianti Rufina vineyards found themselves at an advantage because previously the climate was not hot and the vineyards located 400-500 meters above sea level meant that the grapes were slow to ripen or even did not ripen completely. With the change, the vineyards have found themselves in a privileged position, the grapes have ripened more and the wines are pleasantly drinkable right away.
Chianti Rufina wines, in the past notoriously slow to mature even in the bottle, found themselves immediately competitive with other Tuscan denominations. It is always a pleasure to drink an old Chianti Rufina because even if it has defects they are forgiven because, in general, old wine has its charm and pleasantness.
My thought is that Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir have common identities of color, smell and taste. All three vines have a generous freshness that distinguishes them.
Let us now return to the vertical that was held a few months in Florence, in which we started from the 1979 vintage of the Chianti Rufina Riserva to arrive at the 2018 vintage in two versions, one with the Chianti Rufina Riserva 2018,
composed of Sangiovese, Colorino and Cabernet Sauvignon and in which wood was the first actor and the other with Poggio Diamante made at the behest of Gerardo Gondi with only Sangiovese grapes. In this wine there was a bit of wood but only in the final taste. Surely with the stop of the bottled wine, the wood will be lost. Congratulations to Gerardo for this very pleasant wine.
I want to remember the good winemaker Fabrizio Moltard, whom I have known for many years and who has been collaborating with the Gondi family since the 2007 vintage.
The vertical was conducted by my friend Master of Wine Gabriele Gorelli.
My tasting notes following.
As regards the width of the tannin, it is important that you make the following clarifications, so that it can be understood. I feel the tannin of the wine on the upper gum. The total width of the tannin is 6/6, i.e. the entire width of the upper gum. Obviously, if the tannin is less wide, it could be for example 5/6 and so on. The width of the tannin is important when the quality of the same is of a good or high level. If the tannin is wider, the wine is more worthy of attention, but the tannin, as I specified, must in any case be of good quality.
Let’s now go on to describe the wines tasted.
MARCHESI GONDI
TENUTA BOSSI
Chianti Rufina Riserva DOC, vintage 1979
(grapes: Sangiovese, Colorino ed uve rosse)
Garnet red and transparent orange.
Olfactory debut with intense spicy aromas of black pepper, nutmeg, and cloves followed by notes of dried plum, hay, chlorophyll, dead leaves, undergrowth, wet earth, mint, eucalyptus, helichrysum (licorice, mint and chamomile) to finish with whispers of carob.
On the palate it is savory and has a cherry flavor in alcohol.
The body is medium delicate. The taste balance is a bit fluctuating between alcohol and freshness. The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6–), initially velvety and then dry the upper gum a little. Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
(88/100)
MARCHESI GONDI
VILLA BOSSI
Chianti Rufina Riserva DOC, vintage 1982
(grapes: Sangiovese, Colorino ed uve rosse)
It has a garnet, orange and brick red appearance.
From the glass spread spicy aromas of cloves, pepper, black and nutmeg, candied cherry, mint, eucalyptus, red apple, light rhubarb root, medicinal herbs, sweets from the outside of the sugared almond, humus, India ink to finish with slight hints of rubber.
On the palate you can perceive a medium body and a strong acidity which silences the alcoholic mass. The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6+) initially velvety and then slightly drying the upper gum. Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
(90/100)
MARCHESI GONDI
VILLA BOSSI
Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG, vintage 1992
(grapes: Sangiovese, Colorino ed uve rosse)
Fairly intense garnet red dress with fine orange border.
Olfactory mix made of aromas of dried plum, hay, chlorophyll, intense vanilla, black pepper, nutmeg, ripe black morello cherry, medicinal herbs, mint, eucalyptus, rhubarb root and rubber.
The gustatory approach reveals a pleasant and medium plus body and black pepper flavor. Good balance between alcohol and freshness. The tannins are sweet, thick, broad (6/6–) and velvety.
Its taste persistence is long.
(92/100)
MARCHESI GONDI
VILLA BOSSI
Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG, vintage 1997
(grapes: 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino e 10% Cabernet Sauvignon)
Garnet red coat
The scent of dried porcini mushroom and helichrysum (licorice, mint and chamomile) begins immediately and intensely on the nose, followed by rubber, black pepper, nutmeg, LPG gas, hints of cotton candy, cherry, mint and eucalyptus.
On the palate, the wine has a medium body and flavors of dried plum, hay and chlorophyll. Good taste balance between alcohol and freshness while the tannins are sweet, broad (6/6–), initially velvety and then drying the upper gum.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
For me, the dry porcini mushroom note on the nose is not positive as it denotes perhaps premature old age and the dryness of the tannins on the taste.
(87/100)
MARCHESI GONDI
VILLA BOSSI
Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG, vintage 2000
Magnum format
(grapes: 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino e 10% Cabernet Sauvignon)
Garnet red robe with orange border.
The olfactory encounter reveals aromas of amber, sweets from the outside of the dragee, red apple, black pepper, nutmeg, cotton candy, hints of cloves, blond leather, Marseille soap to end with pleasant notes of helichrysum (licorice, mint and chamomile).
Flavors of dried plum, hay and chlorophyll. The body is medium and the wine has a good taste balance between alcohol and freshness. The tannins are sweet, broad (6/6–), compact, initially velvety and then dry on the upper gum. Its taste persistence is long.
(89/100)
MARCHESI GONDI
VILLA BOSSI
Chianti Rufina Riserva DOC, vintage 2003
Magnum Format
(grapes: 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino e 10% Cabernet Sauvignon)
A garnet red with orange reflections shines out of the glass.
Smell characterized by aromas of amber, spicy cloves, black pepper, nutmeg, sweets from the outside of the dragee, dried plum, hay, chlorophyll and slightly candied cherry. The olfactory journey continues with notes of blond leather, capers, hints of anchovy, sweet pipe tobacco (it reminds me of “Clan”) to end with pinches of tomato preserves.
On the palate the body is medium plus and the wine has a slightly fluctuating balance between alcohol and freshness. The tannins are sweet, broad (6/6–), initially velvety and then dry the upper gum a little.
Pleasantly sweet flavor accompanied by black pepper, dried plum, hay and chlorophyll. Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
(89/100)
MARCHESI GONDI
VILLA BOSSI
Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG, vintage 2007
Magnum format
(grapes: 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino e 10% Cabernet Sauvignon)
(It was the first year of work of the oenologist Fabrizio Moltard in the company)
Fairly intense garnet red.
Nose with light scent of paint enamel, black pepper, nutmeg, quite intense cloves, cherry, medicinal herbs, dried plum, sweet pipe tobacco (Clan), hay, chlorophyll and saddle leather.
The taste shows off a medium body and flavor of dried plum, hay, chlorophyll and black pepper on the tongue. Wine well balanced between alcohol and freshness. The tannins are sweet, broad (6/6) thick, initially velvety and then slightly burn the upper gum. Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
Wine with still a lot of potential and future.
(93/100)
MARCHESI GONDI
VILLA BOSSI
Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG, vintage 2012
Magnum Format
(grapes: 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino e 10% Cabernet Sauvignon)
Garnet red coat.
Olfactory baggage composed of aromas of medicine chest, amber, sweetness of the outside of the sugared almond, cherry, tannery leather at the end of processing, caramel of the brittle, finishing with pleasant whiffs of violet.
Upon entry into the mouth, a medium body is perceived. The wine has a good balance between alcohol and freshness while the tannins are sweet, broad (6/6) initially, silky and then dry on the upper gum. Flavors of dried plum, hay and chlorophyll.
Its taste persistence is long.
(89/100)
MARCHESI GONDI
VILLA BOSSI
Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG, vintage 2015
Magnum Format
(grapes: 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino e 10% Cabernet Sauvignon)
Ruby red coat.
Intense aroma of amber, followed by almond shell, starch (starch spray for ironing), cherry, hints of mentholate, plum to finish with hints of green fig milk.
On the palate the wine has medium body, a good sweetness and flavors of dried plum, hay, chlorophyll and a slight sensation of black pepper on the tongue. Wine with perfect balance between alcohol and freshness while the tannins are sweet, broad (6/6-), quite thick and velvety.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
Rather pleasant wine but currently with a somewhat lazy nose. (91/100)
MARCHESI GONDI
VILLA BOSSI
Chianti Rufina Riserva DOC, vintage 2016
Magnum Format
(grapes: 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino e 10% Cabernet Sauvignon)
Intense ruby red robe.
At the olfactory onset, an intense scent of amber emerges followed by sweet notes from the outside of the sugared almond, cherry, mint, eucalyptus, light notes of nutmeg, almond shell and tomato preserve.
At the beginning of the taste test there is a slightly unripe fruity note and a medium body. Tasty wine with plum and squeezed cherry.
Freshness with the help of tannins dominates the alcoholic mass.
The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6) and velvety.
Its taste persistence is long.
(92/100)
MARCHESI GONDI
VILLA BOSSI
Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG, vintage 2018
Magnum Format
(grapes: 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino e 10% Cabernet Sauvignon)
Beautiful ruby red.
Olfactory debut marked by boisé notes that I also identify with the “after eight” chocolate (chocolate and intense mint) followed by cherry, light notes of the sacristy furniture (incense) and graphite.
At the gustatory meeting you can feel the cherry, the plum and the cold coffee.
The body is medium and the wine has a good balance between alcohol and freshness. The tannins are sweet, broad (6/6-) initially velvety and then dry on the upper gum (wood effect)
Its taste persistence is long.
In my opinion the wood is too present and this is my current score.
(89/100)
MARCHESI GONDI
POGGIO DIAMANTE
Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG, vintage 2018
Magnum Format
(grapes: 100% Sangiovese)
A beautiful ruby red shines through in the glass.
The olfactory treasure chest opens to aromas of amber, cherry, mint, eucalyptus, hints of raspberry, red apple, hints of cotton candy, India ink, juniper berry and caresses of sweet pipe tobacco which reminds me of “Clan” tobacco .
On the palate the wine is fine and elegant and has a medium body. Wine perfectly balanced between alcohol and freshness.
The tannins are sweet, broad (6/6-) and velvety.
Its taste persistence is long with a very final mint (due to the wood which will lose over time).
In this 2018, which I liked more than the other 2018, I felt much less wood.
In the future it will have this score. (93/100)
