I recently had lunch at the new “Arnolfo” restaurant in Colle Val d’Elsa. I went with Bruno Rossini, owner, together with his daughter Natascia, of the Podere la Capella winery in San Donato in Poggio. I had been to this new Arnolfo restaurant for the first time two months earlier, together with friends Gail and Giulio Nicita and I was struck by the beauty of the structure, the furnishings, the kitchens, the splendid cellar, the service and the food. The owners, brothers Giovanni and Gaetano Trovato, spared no expense and created this breathtaking structure.
Giovanni Trovato on that occasion advised me to return during the day because I would see a stupendous panorama.
I remember when I went for the first time to their first restaurant in the center of Colle Val D’Elsa, together with friends Sandra and Patrizio Giaconi where I had a great time, I remember that among the various dishes I ate a sole covered like a dress with slices of courgettes. It’s not easy for me to remember a dish, it’s easier for me to remember a wine. In that case I remember the dish because it struck me positively both in terms of aesthetics and taste.
The chef of this restaurant is Gaetano Trovato while his brother Giovanni has always been at the reception and in the dining room.
The raw materials of Gaetano’s cuisine are 80% local and 20% Italian. Gaetano has collaborations with Laura Peri, Simone Fracassi, Poggio Sorbelli, Cavolo e Merenda, the Sant’Ulivieri agricultural company and many others from whom he purchases top quality raw materials. The Arnolfo restaurant was born in 1982 with the help of his mother. In 1986 the first Michelin star arrived and Gaetano became the youngest Italian star.
In 1990, Giovanni, the sommelier who manages the room, arrived in the restaurant.
Then in 1994 the restaurant moved a few steps away to a 16th century building where in addition to the restaurant four high-level rooms were created as an exclusive service for restaurant guests only.
In 1999 the second Michelin star arrived, which has deservedly remained until today.
In 2008 Arnolfo joined the prestigious Relais & Chateaux family and in 2021 the chef began an important collaboration with the Four Seasons Resort Maldives in Landaa Giraavaru.
The new structure was inaugurated in 2022, just forty years after the birth of the Arnolfo restaurant. The Trovato brothers wanted to create an environment that enhanced the territory; the yellow of Siena, the travertine of the Crete Senesi, the large windows overlooking the charming historic center of Colle Val d’Elsa, the Colligiani crystals for the various sets of stemware and glasses.
The open kitchen overlooking the living room is a spectacle. The Trovato brothers left room for the young. Alice, Gaetano’s daughter, takes care of reception and public relations and next to her is Calogero Milazzo who joined the team after having gained important experience in Italy and abroad. Matilde Morandi is the Pastry chef who, after various important experiences including that of collaborating with Maestro Massari, took over the pastry shop with an all-female team. Chef Gaetano Trovato received the “Chef mentor” and “Passion dessert” awards from the Red Guide in 2023.
As I wrote, I have known the Trovano brothers for many years and I have always seen them determined to achieve the desired results. The old location of the restaurant has remained functional and is also used for tastings and as a hotel for customers. Before starting lunch we went for a tour of the cellar, what can I say?, a wonderful cellar!. Must see!
At lunch we had a beautiful view. We started our lunch with several mis en bouche washed down by a pleasant champagne, the Belle Epoque from Maison Perrier Jouet, 2013 vintage.
Followed by scampi with diced turnips which were fabulous both for their presentation on the plate and for their pleasant taste.
Afterwards we were served plin, Valdarno duck, pasta and chickpeas with which we drank one of my favorite wines, the Sangiovese “Corbezzolo” from the Podere La Cappella company, 2016 vintage, pure poetry of food and wine.
Afterwards I enjoyed eating the Chianina PGI, black truffle from Norcia and winter vegetables.
Finally, I enjoyed tasting a couple of cheeses from the Sienese countryside. I must confess that Arnolfo, for me, certainly deserves a third Michelin star and I am sure he will get it.
Let’s now come to my tasting notes of the two wines drunk.
HOUSE PERRIER TOY
BELLE EPOQUE, 2016 vintage
(grape variety: 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier)
Shiny golden yellow color. The bubbles are fine and quite numerous.
From the glass rise aromas of rennet apple, Marseille soap, white flowers, anemones, flint, Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk), salted almond, pear thigh and iodine.
On the palate the body is medium (it is more structured than the 2015), the bubbles are fine and caressing, rich flavor and pleasant minerality. Pear flavor thigh.
Wine wider than vertical. At a certain point the body diminishes and it is the freshness that allows it to have a long tasting persistence.
(95/100)
PODERE LA CAPPELLA
CORBEZZOLO, 2016 vintage
Tuscany IGT
(grape variety: 100% sangiovese)
Light garnet red colour.
Olfactory mix made of aromas of black morello cherry, mint, eucalyptus, processed leather, peeled tomatoes, nutmeg, cocoa powder, chamomile and dried chestnut.
On the palate it has a medium plus chorus and is well balanced with the freshness that dominates the alcoholic mass. The tannins are sweet, silky and broad (6/6). Its flavor persistence is long with a finish of morello cherry and medicinal herbs.
This 2016 is qualitatively halfway between 2013 and 2015.
When you leave the Arnolfo restaurant after an experience like this you already think about returning.
