As usual in recent years, the Capezzana Estate of the Conti Contini Bonacossi is organizing a vertical display of one of their wines.
It involves tasting different vintages of the same wine produced in a period of time that has seen changes in different situations such as the climate, the management of the vineyards and the cellar. Despite this, the characteristics of the wine always prove to be the undisputed protagonists of the event.
A few months ago the Contini Bonacossi family organized this splendid tasting of the “Trefiano” wine, Carmignano Riserva, composed of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo grapes.
The first year of production was 1979, by will of Vittorio Contini Bonacossi, who unfortunately left us a few years ago. Vittorio was a nice, competent person of both human and professional value.
The history of Trefiano wine originates from the Villa of the same name created by the hand of the sixteenth-century architect “Buontalenti”.
Vittorio replanted the vineyards where they had already been planted in 1570 by Giovanni di Pandolfo of the Rucellai family.
The Villa of Trefiano was built in 1570 by Giovanni Battista Bottiglioni, Buontalenti’s colleague for the Rucellai Counts.
In this Villa, after a careful restoration, Vittorio lived with his family and it was he who oversaw the replanting of the vineyards, strictly red grapes, as in 1579.
The Trefiano wine vineyards have different exposures. The Pietraia vineyard faces south, that of Le Croci faces north-northeast, while the Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards face north. The soil of these vineyards is composed of sticky and yellow clay in the highest part, sandy and tuff soil in the lowest part. The soil of the Pietraia vineyard is clayey, very rich in stones. The Le Croci vineyard has clays of different white and yellow colors and very calcareous in the part overlooking Seano. In this vertical we started with the 1979 to arrive at the last vintage, the 2019.
We now come to describe the wines tasted. From the notes that follow you can understand the positive and negative aspects, the peculiarities of the vintages and the cultivation of the wines in the cellar.
Regarding the width of the tannin, it is important to make the following clarifications so that it can be understood. I feel the tannin of the wine on the upper gum. The total width of the tannin is 6/6, i.e. the entire width of the upper gum. Obviously, if the tannin is less broad, it could be for example 5/6 and so on. The width of the tannin is important when the quality of the tannin is of good or high level. The larger the tannin, the more the wine is worthy of attention, but the tannin, as I have specified, must, in any case, be of good quality.
Let’s now move on to describing the wines tasted.
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
CONTINI BONACOSSI
TREFIANO CARMIGNANO D.O.C.G., reserve 1979
(grape variety: 80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Canaiolo)
Bottles produced n. 7045
Climate trend: cool spring followed by a hot summer bathed by some occasional rain.
Garnet red color with orange edge.
On the nose it is an explosion of aromas that parade one after the other starting with dried plum and followed by hay, chlorophyll, medicinal herbs, mint, eucalyptus, vegetable stock cube packaged for broth, blackberry jam, licorice, earth, fabric starch of cotton, dried date, ending with rather intense hints of violet and intense carob notes.
Tasting reveals a medium body and blackberry jam flavour. Wine well balanced between alcohol and freshness while the tannins are sweet, fine, quite broad (5/6) initially silky and then drying the upper gum a little. Its taste persistence is long with a “morositas” candy finish.
(94/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
CONTINI BONACOSSI
TREFIANO CARMIGNANO D.O.C.G., reserve 1983
Bottles produced n. 7538
Climatic trend: spring budding and flowering followed a regular trend, as did the summer period.
Light garnet red shines through the glass.
The sense of smell is characterized by aromas of black pepper, nutmeg, intense hay, lemon grass (lemongrass), mint, eucalyptus, strawberry, starch from the cotton fabric, sea water (white internal part of the watermelon peel) and slight aromas of Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk), earth, hairy red peach, hints of green banana (wood?), star anise, carob, finishing with whiffs of camphor.
On the palate the body is medium and you can enjoy flavors of dried plum and candied cherry.
A rather balanced wine between alcohol and freshness even if the finish feels slightly burning on the tongue. The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6), initially velvety and then drying the upper gum a little (more than 1979). Its taste persistence is long with a finish of dried plum, hay and chlorophyll.
(90/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
CONTINI BONACOSSI
TREFIANO CARMIGNANO D.O.C.G., reserve 1985
Bottles produced n. 11,663
Climate trend: The first three months of the year were very rainy. April was dry. May and August were rainy while September and October were dry, allowing perfect ripening of the grapes.
Garnet red and orange colour.
Complex and varied nose with aromas of mint, eucalyptus, sweets from the outside of the dragee, carob, rhubarb, saddle leather, jute, hay, black pepper, nutmeg, camphor, blackberry jam, medicinal herbs, lemongrass (lemongrass), hints of medicine drawer, straw, finishing with pinches of star anise.
On the palate it has an intense taste of dried plum and “morositas” candy. Well balanced wine with the alcoholic mass dominated by a pleasant freshness and tannins. The latter are quite thick, sweet, quite wide (5/6) and velvety. The body is medium and its flavor persistence is long with a finish of dried plum and candied cherry. With an empty glass you can smell the aromas of dried plum and chlorophyll. (91/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
CONTINI BONACOSSI
TREFIANO CARMIGNANO D.O.C.G., reserve 1988
Bottles produced n. 13,140
Climate trend: The first months of the year, excluding March, were very rainy. Dry summer with August and September with light rainfall. October was initially dry and then humid and rainy.
An orange-red shines from the glass.
Aromas of wild strawberry, slight aromas of dried plum, paint polish and mint and eucalyptus.
The olfactory journey continues with intense camphor, almond shell and hints of hay and carob.
At the end of the olfactory examination, memories of milk cream, earth and broken cyclamen stem follow.
On the palate it has a strong acidity and a medium body. The wine has a good gustatory balance with an imperceptible alcoholic mass thanks to the acidity-freshness and tannins. The latter are sweet, fine, quite wide (5/6), initially velvety, then drying the upper gum a little.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long with a finish of blackberry jam and dried plum.
(90/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
CONTINI BONACOSSI
TREFIANO CARMIGNANO D.O.C.G., reserve 1998
Bottles produced n. 11,914
Climate trend: Very hot summer which brought forward the Sangiovese harvest before the rains that fell from 26 September to 9 October. The Cabernet was harvested after the rains.
Those quite intense garnet red.
Upon olfactory examination, aromas of fir, oil paint, mint, eucalyptus, candied cherry emerge, intense aromas of sea water (internal white part of the watermelon peel), drawer of medicines, light tannery leather at the end of processing, Valda tablet, blackberry jam, peeled tomatoes, finishing with light woody puffs.
On the palate the body is medium and the wine is well balanced between alcohol and freshness. The tannins are thick, not very wide (4/6) initially velvety and then dry and burn the upper gum. The thought is that new woods were used in this vintage, which is why the tannins of the wood are so evident. Further confirmation of this is given by the taste finish which is a little bitter. (87/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
CONTINI BONACOSSI
TREFIANO CARMIGNANO D.O.C.G., reserve 2003
Bottles produced n. 9,432
Climate trend: From January to September little rain fell and that rain was not in the summer months. There was a decrease in harvest and emergency irrigation was adopted.
Beautiful ruby red with garnet highlights.
Olfactory debut of intense mint (the concentrated one contained in the After Eight chocolate), graphite, blackberry, dried black fig, almond shell, eucalyptus with a light camphor finish.
The intense note of blackberry jam is highlighted on the palate. The body is medium and the balance is a little fluctuating between alcohol and freshness. The tannins are sweet, thick, quite broad (5/6–) initially velvety to become a little drying and burning on the upper gum. Its taste persistence is long with a finish of blackberry jam and woody notes. With an empty glass you can smell the dried porcini mushroom. Not an easy year in which a lot of new wood was used and the “after eight” effect, as well as the tannins, confirm this.
(88/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
CONTINI BONACOSSI
TREFIANO CARMIGNANO D.O.C.G., reserve 2005
Bottles produced n. 8,740
Climatic trend: Cold spring which decreased the fertility of the buds, reducing production. Little rainfall from January to July and August, only in September did the rains arrive. The vintage in general produced very fragrant but not particularly structured wines.
An intense garnet red emerges from the glass. The olfactory approach highlights the balsamic note of mint, eucalyptus and rosemary, followed by aromas of earth, plum, cherry, rust, sage, laurel, light woody, medicinal herbs to diffuse a magnificent and intense violet in the finish.
Tasting reveals a medium body and flavors of blackberry and plum. The wine has a good balance between alcohol and freshness while the tannins are sweet, thick, quite broad (5/6-) and velvety. Juicy wine with long, intense aromatic persistence. (90/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
CONTINI BONACOSSI
TREFIANO CARMIGNANO D.O.C.G., reserve 2012
Bottles produced n. 6,764
Climatic trend: Rainy winter until May while from June the rains stopped and resumed after August 20th.
Ruby red – garnet.
Olfactory mix composed of aromas of blackberry, cherry cassis, plum, mint, eucalyptus, hints of black pepper and nutmeg, sage, graphite, juniper berry, dried porcini mushroom to finish with whiffs of tomato preserves.
The taste encounter reveals a medium reinforced body and a fruity flavor of blackberry and cassis. The wine has a good gustatory balance between alcohol and freshness. The tannins are sweet and quite broad (5/6+), initially velvety and then dry out and burn the upper gum a little in the finish.
At the beginning of the tasting I felt the central part of my tongue burning slightly. (91/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
CONTINI BONACOSSI
TREFIANO CARMIGNANO D.O.C.G., reserve 2015
Bottles produced n. 11,052
Climate trend: Rainy winter, hot spring and sunny summer with little rain.
Ruby red with purple highlights.
From the glass rise aromas of intense nutmeg, black pepper, plum, cherry, old wood, almond shell, aromatic herbs, medicinal herbs, sweets from the outside of the dragee, hints of cloves, hay, blackberry, hints of ink of cinchona, star anise, musk, to end with light puffs of episperm (it is the sweetness of the fine skin of boiled brown).
Pleasantly fruity and juicy mouthfeel of plum, blackberry, blueberry. The body is medium and the wine is well balanced with the alcoholic mass completely silenced by the freshness and tannins. The latter are fairly large (5/6) and velvety sweet.
Its taste persistence is long with a richly fruity finish.
Very rich nose and taste.
(93++/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
CONTINI BONACOSSI
TREFIANO CARMIGNANO D.O.C.G., reserve 2019
(grape variety: 80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Canaiolo)
Bottles produced n. 6,867
Climate trend: Dry winter, rainy May, very cool June and sunny summer from mid-June to early September. The cool nights, the right daytime temperatures and the setting wind allowed perfect maturation fenolica. Great year!
Ruby red and purple
On the nose it reveals aromas of intense hydrolytin (it is the powder that makes natural water carbonated), sweets from the outside of the dragee, cherry, plum, blueberry, cassis, mint, eucalyptus, blackberry, medicinal herbs, earth, finishing with pinches of rust.
The palate enjoys its generous fruity note of plum and blueberry. The body is medium and the wine is well balanced, in fact the alcoholic mass is imperceptible thanks to its freshness and its tannins. The latter are sweet, wide (6/6-) and silky. Its flavor persistence is long with a juicy finish of plum and blueberry.
Nice pleasant wine for me the best Trefiano ever made.
(95/100)
The vertical highlighted the pleasantness and olfactory varieties of 1979, the use of new wood in 1998, the ripening of the fruit in the hot year of 2003. The olfactory and gustatory pleasantness of 2015 and the extreme olfactory and gustatory pleasantness of 2019, for me the best vintage of Trefiano produced.
After the tasting, a pleasant lunch followed by the excellent chef Francesco Corona from the Vinsantaia restaurant of the Tenuta di Capezzana. The menu was composed as follows: Eggs, pumpkin and porcini mushrooms accompanied by Tebbiano 2022 IGT Toscana (100% Trebbiano grapes), which I found to have a savory and mineral taste, more structured than the 2021 and 2020. (90/100)
Followed by the “Paccheri with wild boar ragù soaked in Villa di Capezzana 2020 D.O.C.G. Carmignano (80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grape varieties). Intense ruby red colour, spicy aromas of black pepper, nutmeg, intense of small grains of liquorice, black morello cherry, mint, eucalyptus, fine tanned leather, camphor and rust.
When tasted it has a medium plus body. The wine has a good balance between alcohol and freshness.
The tannins are sweet and broad (6/6–) initially velvety and then dry and burn the upper gum slightly. Its taste persistence is long. I really felt the maturity of the Cabernet.
(93/100)
The next dish was the “Pork fillet, apple compote, carrots with thyme” which was accompanied by the Ugo Contini Bonacossi 2019 IGT Toscana (grape variety: 100% Sangiovese).
Garnet ruby red color. Smell composed of aromas of wafers from the ice cream cone, plum, cherry, rosemary, sage, bay leaves and sweetness from the outside of the candy. On the palate it is a triumph of pleasure with juicy cherry and plum fruit.
Balanced wine between alcohol and freshness, with a medium plus body. The tannins are broad but yes they have to settle, A wine that is already very pleasant, a very young wine that will reach 97/100 in the future. For me it’s the best Ugo ever made.
With the “Pecorino Riserva del Fondatore” the Ghiaie della Furba IGT Toscana was poured into our glass. (grape variety: 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Syrah and 25% Merlot)
Intense ruby red and purple colour.
On the nose it is a pleasant explosion of violet followed by mint, eucalyptus, plum and furry red peach.
Pleasant palate that focuses on finesse and elegance, unlike the 2019 which, I remember, veered more towards power. Nice wine! (94/100)
To end this splendid lunch where the wines were perfectly paired with the dishes we were offered the “ricotta cream, vin santo and cantucci” obviously combined with the vinsanto reserve 2016 Carmignano D.O.C. (grape variety: 90% Trebbiano and 10% San Colombano).
Dark amber color.
Aromas of paint enamel, pastry, eggnog, dried white fig, dried date, almond, milk toffee and honey. On the palate it is well balanced and has a good sweetness.
Its taste persistence is long (98/100)
What a beautiful day! What a beautiful family the Contini Bonacossi is. I also congratulate the oenologist Dr. Franco Bernabei who has greatly improved all the company’s wines. I must point out, however, that the vinsanto is the work of Benedetta Contini Bonacossi who makes a great wine every year.
