Last November an evening was held at the Hosteria Giusti in Modena, commissioned and organized by Vincenzo Tardini and Claudio Cavicchioli, dedicated to Krug champagne, from the 90s with two appendices from the 80s. Those present at the evening were: Guido Barilla, Andrea Grignaffini, Umberto L’Astrorina, Matteo Morandi, Mimmo Guidotti, Leo Damiani, Claudio Cavicchioli and Vincenzo Tardini.
The Hosteria Giusti restaurant is open in the evening only for special evenings, otherwise it is only open at lunchtime and seats about 16. During the day the Mattei family works in the adjacent delicatessen, the oldest in Europe.
The supplier of the Krug champagne was his friend Vincenzo Tardini, who was curious to hear from the 1990 and 1996 vintages also the 1995 and 1998, these two vintages somewhat obscured by the first two.
I remember that the 1990 already showed a lot of maturity when it came out while the 1989 released before the 1988 was a bit mature but with rich freshness.
The 1988 was all freshness and little maturity in evidence, over the years the 1990 has remained the same, I would say hibernated, while the 1988 has revealed more maturity while the 1989 has proved to be very balanced both in terms of maturity and freshness. It was certainly three important vintages as they were also in Alsace and in Bordeaux including the Sauternes.
Returning to the evening, Vincenzo delighted us with the extremely pleasant Grande Cuveé dating back to the years 1985/1989 and then moving on to the Vintage 1998, also pleasant with a body aided by the freshness in its long persistence on the palate.
Revelation was the 1995, still very young, rich in taste, mineral, savory and lemon citrus. Champagne very young more than 1998.
Then there were two bottles of Vintage 1996, one from the Krug cellar and the other from Vincenzo’s cellar. The second was somewhat superior to the first overall and also for its gustatory persistence.
We moved on to the Vintage 1988 with a very generous freshness and textbook gustatory balance.
From 1990 we tasted the Vintage and the Collection. What can I say? Two great champagnes, the Collection with something extra, but beautiful and pleasant on the palate with flavors of bitter orange jam, lemon and mandarin.
I remember that at the Clos du Mesnil 1990, which was not present on this evening, I always recognized the score of 100/100.
The champagnes that I liked the most were the Vintage 1995 and the 1990 collection. Matteo Morandi and his family cooked for us, creating a menu of local haute cuisine: Stewed cod with fried dumplings paired with the Grande Cuveé (1985 /1989); fried pasta and bean fritters accompanied by Vintage 1998.
Tagliolini with butter and white truffle happily accompanied by the fantastic 1995 vintage. Followed by the wet rice Savarim with the two 1996 vintages.
The suckling pig with green sauce and mayonnaise paired beautifully with this “young” 1988.
The roast goose with its potatoes was kissed by the two 1990.
To finish with the mascarpone cream with toasted banana and saba which was accompanied by the review of all the champagnes in the glasses.
Evening as always memorable for food, wine and company.
We were all happily satisfied thanks to Matteo, Vincenzo and Claudio.
Let’s come and describe the champagnes of the evening with my tasting notes and evaluations.
KRUG GRANDE CUVEE’
(dates between 1985 – 1989)
It has a marsala yellow and amber color.
The perlage is very fine and the bubbles are quite numerous.
The aromas of wafer biscuit, white dried fig, ripe jujube, hard almond shell, caramel stand out on the nose, ending with pleasant puffs of zabaglione.
On the palate the bubbles are very fine and caressing. Generously savory, mineral and witty wine, flavors of lemon, mandarin and eggnog. Perfect gustatory balance, the freshness completely dominates the alcoholic mass.
The body is medium. Its gustatory persistence is long with a finish of zabaglione.
From such a mature color I would have expected a seated wine, but this champagne still has life ahead of it. Amazing!
(96++/100)
KRUG
VINTAGE 1998
(magum format)
Shiny golden yellow color, the bubbles are fine but not very fine and quite numerous.
A myriad of aromas rise from the glass including rusty pear, helichrysum (mint, chamomile and licorice) hard shell of almond, slight vanilla, white pepper, salt, hints of zabaglione, raspberry, vegetable stock cube (broth), to finish with an important trail of flint.
On the palate it shows a medium body and fine bubbles: a generously savory and mineral wine with flavors of Kaiser pear and lemon.
Perfect gustatory balance thanks to the freshness, acidity and minerality that dominate the alcohol mass. Long is its intense aromatic persistence thanks to the generous acidity. The body takes on a little consistency but the freshness gives it continuity and persistence.
Champagne still very young.
(95–/100)
KRUG
VINTAGE 1995
(magum format)
Bright golden yellow color with amber reflections. The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous.
From the glass rise aromas of chalk, Kaiser pear, light old wood with copal varnish, intense white pepper and hard almond shell. The olfactory journey continues with floral scents, blond leather, caper, anchovy, vanilla, zabaglione, sliced red tomatoes, ending with a fantastic scent of juniper berries (in my opinion typical of a great chardonnay).
The taste has a medium body and is a little more mature than the 1998. A perfectly balanced wine, richly sapid, mineral and lemon-citrus. Its gustatory persistence is long with a mineral and lemon-citrus finish. Very young champagne! It wowed me!
(99/100)
KRUG
VINTAGE 1996
(bottle correctly stored in a private cellar in Italy since its release on the market)
Bright golden yellow color with fine and quite numerous bubbles.
Olfactory mix made up of intense aromas of hard almond shells, minerals and white pepper. The olfactory walk continues with scents of lemon, Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk), menthols, juniper berry, zabaglione, Kaiser pear, raspberry, LPG gas slights to finish with caresses of blond leather.
The taste reveals a medium body, slightly lower than the 1995 and a perfect gustatory balance. The freshness, acidity and minerality completely dominate the alcohol mass. Its gustatory persistence is long thanks also to the citrus freshness of lemon which in the end replaces the structure in the persistence.
(97/100)
KRUG
VINTAGE 1996
(bottle recently purchased directly from Maison Krug)
Shiny golden yellow with amber textures, very fine and quite numerous bubbles.
The nose reveals intense aromas of ripe banana, Kaiser pear and helichrysum (mint, chamomile and licorice). Hints of white pepper and juniper berry follow.
The body is medium and the wine is well balanced. Sapid, mineral and generously citrusy wine. Its gustatory persistence is long but not very long, the body then loses consistency and the freshness prolongs its persistence.
(93/100)
The preservation of the wine is extremely important, these two bottles from 1996 are proof of this.
KRUG
VINTAGE 1988
Golden yellow with amber textures.
The bubbles are very fine and few in number.
Nose characterized by aromas of orange peel, hard almond shell, meat broth, white pepper, menthols, anchovies, Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk), mild orange peel mold (new wood), ending with pinches of vanilla.
On the palate it has a medium body and is sapid and mineral. Its very generous freshness is striking. The wine is well balanced as the alcohol mass is impeccable, on the other hand the freshness is very rich. Lemon flavour. Its gustatory persistence is long with a lemon finish. For its freshness one has to exclaim: It’s still young!
(96/100)
KRUG
VINTAGE 1990
Intense amber color slightly orange.
The bubbles are very fine and quite numerous.
Olfactory expression made of scents of chamomile, zabaglione, vanilla, pastry, hard barley candy, lupin, white pepper, hard almond shell, Kaiser pear, ripe raspberry, white part of watermelon peel, ripe jujube,
to finish with fruity notes reminiscent of tile-shaped jam.
On the palate the body is medium while the bubble of this bottle has run out a bit. Flavors of apple core, almond hard shell and honey.
Sapid mineral and well balanced wine: the freshness dominates, without second thoughts, the alcoholic mass. Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
(96/100)
KRUG
COLLECTION 1990
Amber yellow color with very fine and quite numerous bubbles.
The nose is wide and varied, aromas of honey emerge, copal varnish, hard almond shell, juniper berry, Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk), tomato preserve, LPG gas, white pepper, to end with balsamic sighs of cypress.
When tasted it has fine bubbles, medium and savory body and has flavors of mineral, internal white part of the watermelon peel, white melon (sea water) with a sweet finish reminiscent of honey.
Well balanced wine with freshness dominating the alcohol mass.
Long is its intense aromatic persistence with a finish of bitter orange jam, lemon and mandarin.
Beautiful still long-lived champagne.
(99/100)
