Some time ago in Florence there was a lunch at the “Atto di Vito Mollica” restaurant to taste the latest releases of the wines produced by Martino Manetti’s Montevertine company. There were around 15 guests and the invitations were made personally by Liviana Manetti, Martino’s wife. The lucky ones were mainly wine enthusiasts and admirers of the wines of the Montevertine company.
The wines that accompanied the food courses were Pian del Ciampolo 2022, Montevertine 2021, Pergole Torte 2021, Pergole Torte 2021 and Pergole Torte 2006 in double magnum format.
Unscheduled, Martino served us, surprisingly, a double magnum of Montevertine Chianti Classico 1979.
The menu created by Vito Mollica was very delicious and the dishes perfectly combined Martino’s delicious wines.
I would like to point out, however, that before lunch we were served de mis en bouche together with a Montevertine white wine from a few years ago
Now we come to lunch.
With the “Asparagus pie with pecorino foam and red partridge julienne” we were served the Pian del Ciampolo 2022 whose acidity perfectly matched the dish. We were then served “Pappardelle with mountain pasture butter and thyme with Chianina tail ragout” which combined well with the 2021 Montevertine which had finesse, elegance and a floral violet finish. What a joy, what a perfect match!.
The next dish was “Roasted Iberian pork with fresh morels and agretti” paired with the 2021 Pergole Torte which had a splendid intense violet on the nose and taste and a freshness that penetrated the juiciness of the dish. What food, what wines! With the selection of cheeses we were served the Pergole Torte 2006. The wine was still so young on the nose and the taste was dried plum which integrated perfectly with certain cheeses. As anticipated with the small pastry shop, we were surprisingly served the Chianti Classico 1979 in a double magnum format.
Obviously the pairing of this wine with the pastries was purely coincidental. The wine was magnificent, what can I say? All the guests were agitated with the joy of having had the privilege of sitting at this splendid table with the continuous presence of Vito Mollica with his delicious dishes paired with wines of exemplary pleasure, starting with a simple wine (so to speak) such as Pian del Ciampolo to then arrive at the Chianti Classico 1979.
Let us now examine the wines tasted and drunk individually, with the following clarification:
Regarding the width of the tannin, it is important to make the following clarifications so that it can be understood. I feel the tannin of the wine on the upper gum. The total width of the tannin is 6/6, i.e. the entire width of the upper gum. Obviously, if the tannin is less broad, it could be for example 5/6 and so on. The width of the tannin is important when the quality of the tannin is of good or high level. The larger the tannin, the more the wine is worthy of attention, but the tannin, as I have specified, must, in any case, be of good quality.
MONTEVERTINE
PIAN DEL CIAMPOLO IGT, Tuscany, 2022 vintage
(grape variety: 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo and Colorino)
Mix of ruby red and purple.
Intense aromas of violet and sea water rise from the glass (it is the same as the scent of the white part of the watermelon peel)
Followed by notes of eucalyptus mint, rosemary flower, liquorice grains, sage, straw and peeled tomatoes.
On the palate you can feel a little of the usual acetic acid of this wine, the violet and the flavor.
The body is medium sufficient plus. Well balanced wine with freshness dominating the alcoholic mass. The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6) initially velvety and then dry the upper gum a little.
Its taste persistence is long with a finish of violet and acetic acid.
(91/100)
MONTEVERTINE
MONTEVERTINE IGT, Tuscany, vintage 2021
(grape variety: 90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo and 5% Colorino)
Purple red.
Upon olfactory examination you can perceive the scent, albeit light, which quickly goes away of the After eight chocolate (intense chocolate and mint) which is also typical of the use of new wood. The olfactory journey continues with aromas of eucalyptus, rosemary, sage, straw, jute, black morello cherry, hints of sacristy furniture (wood and incense), black pepper, violet to finish with whiffs of starch (starch spray for ironing).
On the palate it has a medium body, has a cherry flavor and is fine and elegant. Wine with alcohol and freshness in perfect balance between them, while the tannins are sweet, broad (6/6–) initially velvety and then drying the upper gum a little.
Its persistence is long with a violet finish and a light woodiness that will disappear over time. (93/100)
MONTEVERTINE
LE PERGOLE TORTE IGT, Tuscany, 2021 vintage
(grape variety: 100% Sangiovese)
Purple-red coat
On the nose there are aromas of finely processed tannery leather, India ink, boiled rice starch, intense violet, paint enamel, straw, jute, mint, eucalyptus, black pepper, nutmeg, liquorice grains, light woody and black morello cherry.
Upon tasting it reveals a medium body and an intense violet flavour. Alcohol and freshness are in perfect harmony with each other while the tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6++) initially velvety and then dry and burn the upper gum a little.
Its taste persistence is long with a finish of intense violet and juicy black morello cherry. (96/100)
MONTEVERTINE
LE PERGOLE TORTE IGT, Tuscany, 2006 vintage
(grape variety: 100% Sangiovese)
Format: double magnum
Garnet red shines from the glass.
Olfactorily it is exuberant with peanuts in the foreground, followed by the aromas of finely processed tannery leather, boiled rice starch, wild strawberry, India ink, very slight aromas of zabaione, bacate ballotte (boiled chestnut with dried wild fennel), mint , eucalyptus, ending with whispers of clean sea water.
Mouth enchanted by the flavor of dried plum and a medium body.
The freshness dominates, without second thoughts, the alcoholic mass while the tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6) initially velvety and then drying the upper gum a little. Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
(95/100)
MONTEVERTINE
CHIANTI CLASSICO, 1979 vintage
(grape variety: 100% Sangiovese)
Format: double magnum
Garnet red color with very fine orange edge.
The sense of smell is rich and varied, emerging aromas of dried fig, light of dried plum, jute, camphor, mint, eucalyptus, light of leather in fine tannery processing, intense of juniper berry to end with spicy hints of black pepper.
On the palate it has a sufficient medium body plus and a perfect balance between alcohol and freshness, the latter completely enveloping the former. The tannins are sweet, broad (6/6–) and velvety.
Its persistence is long with a final flavor of juniper berry and a final flavor of blood orange. (96/100)
I would like to thank, for this pleasant event, Liviana who invited me and then Sergio and Martino Manetti, the first for his skill, passion and stubbornness and the second because he perfectly interpreted Sergio’s thoughts and skill, continuing on his pleasant path .
