For those who haven’t been there yet, I suggest going to the Cantinetta Antinori in Florence where you can eat excellent dishes and taste the wines of the Antinori property.
This restaurant is often frequented by me with guests and friends for both lunch and dinner.
The staff in the dining room is made up of very young people who are always smiling and full of enthusiasm for the work they do.
Every time I arrive at the restaurant all the staff meet me smiling to greet me.
If the dining room staff is like this, it is also thanks to its young director Daniele Benci.
In addition to going to the Cantinetta for my own pleasure, it also happens that Dr. Renzo Cotarella, CEO of Marchesi Antinori spa, invites me to dinner to be together and to taste their wines that have just been released or are yet to be released on the market.
Last April I was invited, together with my friend Sergio Antonini, by Dr. Cotarella to the Cantinetta Antinori to taste some wines and for the occasion we pleasantly drank the Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque 2014 champagne, imported by them for Italy, the chardonnay Antica A 26, 2022 vintage, from their Napa Valley company, the Tignanello 2021, the Guado al Tasso 2021 and the Muffato della Sala 2009. For the occasion I brought a bottle of Meo Camuzet Nuit Saint Georges Aux Murgers 2008 pinot noir.
It was an interesting evening for the company, the wines and the food. Before moving on to my tasting notes of the evening’s wines I have to make some clarifications on tannins. I feel the tannin of the wine on the upper gum. The total width of the tannin is 6/6, i.e. the entire width of the upper gum. Obviously, if the tannin is less broad, it could be for example 5/6 and so on. The width of the tannin is important when the quality of the tannin is of good or high level. The larger the tannin, the more worthy of attention the wine is, but the tannin, as I have specified, must, in any case, be of good quality.
I now move on to writing my tasting notes for this evening’s wines, highlighting the fact that the wine that really impressed me was the Tignanello 2021 to which I gave 100/100, something I had never done having had the privilege in the past of taste all the vintages produced from the first which was 1971 to 2021.
MAISON PERRIER TOY
BELLE EPOQUE, 2014 vintage
(grape variety: 51% Chardonnay and 49% Pinot Noir)
The glass shows golden yellow and the bubbles are fine and quite numerous
The olfactory treasure chest bestows aromas of ripe rennet apple, green apple, vanilla, white pepper, blond leather, white flowers, ricciarello to finish with light whispers of zabaglione.
The body is medium and the wine is well balanced with the freshness which, with the help of flavor and minerality, envelops the alcoholic mass.
The bubbles are fine and pleasant.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long. Vertical wine. (93/100)
ANTINORI ANTICA A26 CHARDONNAY
NAPA VALLEY, annata 2022
Almost golden yellow colour, shiny.
It unfolds aromas of rosemary, flint, woody, mineral, vanilla, sea water (it is the same as the scent of the white internal part of the watermelon peel), pineapple, blond leather, anchovy, caper, finishing with whiffs of liquorice grains.
On the palate there is a sufficient medium body plus and it is savory and mineral. Well balanced wine with an imperceptible alcoholic mass thanks to the freshness and minerality that dominate it.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long. (93/100)
DOMAINE CAMUZET
NUIT SAINT GEORGES
AUX MURGERS 1ER CRU, annata 2008
Garnet red colour.
It expresses a blend of aromas including tannery leather at the end of its processing, lemongrass (the scent resembles that of lemongrass), starch from boiled rice, India ink, finishing with balsamic hints of mint and eucalyptus.
When tasted, it has a medium body and a red rose flavour.
The wine is well balanced with freshness dominating the alcoholic mass. The tannins are sweet, broad (6/6–), initially velvety and then dry the upper gum a little.
Its taste persistence is long with a black truffle finish. (92/100)
TENUTA TIGNANELLO – ANTINORI
TIGNANELLO, vintage 2021
Intense purple red dress.
Upon olfactory examination it is a riot of aromas of medicinal herbs, ripe plum, black morello cherry, blood orange, cloves, violet, chocolate, sweets from the outside of the dragee, mint, eucalyptus, rosemary, bay leaf, sage, graphite, tomato preserves, vegetable skin (it is the skin that tends towards the sweetness of leather), embers from the wood of the fireplace, to end with memories of grains and of licorice string.
Pleasant bite with a flavor of squeezed fruit and liquorice (cabernet has liquorice aromas and flavours) finishing with Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk).
The body is medium plus and the wine is well balanced with freshness that does not even minimally reveal the alcoholic mass.
The tannins are sweet, completely broad (6/6), quite thick and silky.
Its taste persistence is long with a medicinal herbal finish.
I didn’t find any flaws in it. (100/100)
TENUTA GUADO AL TASSO
GUADO AL TASSO, 2021 vintage
(grape variety: 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Cabernet Franc and 13% Merlot)
Intense purple red – black coat.
The sense of smell is generous with scents of bay leaves and sea water (it is the same scent as the internal white part of the watermelon peel), white pepper, cloves, nutmeg, rosemary, cherry, plum, cassis, blackberry bramble to finish with a light note of milk cream.
On the palate it has a medium plus body, and an excellent balance between alcohol and freshness.
The tannins are broad (6/6-), thick and silky.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long. At the end the alcohol tries to make a hint of presence but surely the stop of the wine in the bottle will make it disappear. (96/100)
CASTELLO DELLA SALA
MUFFATO DELLA SALA, 2009 vintage
(grapes: Saunvignon Blanc, Grechetto, Traminer, Sémillon and Riesling)
The glass shows amber colour.
On the nose it expresses aromas of lemon tea, dried apricot, saffron, amaretto di Saronno, mint, eucalyptus to finish with sighs of cooked sugar.
On the palate it has a medium body, is savory and has the flavor of lemon tea and amaretto di Saronno. Well balanced wine in perfect harmony. Its flavor persistence is long with an acacia honey finish. (93/100)
The second meeting at the Cantinetta Antinori took place in mid-October.
Dr. Cotarella invited me and my friend Sergio Antonini to dinner to taste four Chianti Classico Gran Selection 2021, about to go on sale, and the Solaia 2021.
On the evening of the invitation I arrived a little before Dr. Cotarella and I brought a bottle of Cervaro 1995 and had it put in a decanter. We had the VIP room on the first floor of the Cantinetta for the three of us. Once Renzo arrived I asked the sommelier Giada Sabatini to serve the white wine that was in the decanter. Once the wine was served in the glass, a slightly intense golden yellow could be seen shining through the glass and Renzo smelled the wine, remaining fascinated by the aromas that spread in the air and observed, examining the colour, that the wine was more than twenty years old.
I, bluffing, said that the wine was a beautiful expression of Burgundy.
Renzo looked at me and nodded, specifying that the Cervaro della Sala could also be that good. At that point I asked Giada to bring the bottle and the mystery dissolved. Renzo complimented me on the state of conservation of the wine which was still young with life still ahead of it despite its 29 years.
When I say that Cervaro della Sala has always been the only Italian white wine from Burgundy, I am telling the pure truth. Congratulations to Renzo for his skill in recognizing his wines but also for making, together with his company professionals, great wines.
Renzo is an excellent conductor for everything concerning the Marchesi Antinori companies.
We then proceeded to taste the Gran Selezione wines, one better than the other but for different characteristics and then different production areas.
In fact, we got to taste the Solaia 2021 which I found fantastic in both smell and taste.
I have always loved Solaia and have always considered it a great wine.
But let’s also come to dinner. Daniele Benci offered us the bread bruschetta, obviously without garlic, with the new Antinori oil, the tomato soup (for me the best in Florence), the ribollita and the Milanese with salad. To finish we enjoyed a fantastic flatbread with grapes. Between one interval and another they went to smell the glass of Cervaro which I have imprinted in my mind.
What a beautiful evening this too!
It is truly a joy to share these moments with those who know how to appreciate them. When is the next meeting?
My tasting notes for the evening’s wines follow.
CASTELLO DELLA SALA
CERVARO, vintage 1995
(grape variety: 90% Chardonnay and 10% Grechetto)
Golden yellow.
Bouquet with aromas of chalk, white melon (or sea water), ripe pineapple, peanut butter, light saffron, rhubarb root, rocket, sage, toasted peanuts to finish with pleasant puffs of graphite.
When tasted it is savory. You enjoy a medium body and flavors of lemon, minerals and cedar peel.
Well balanced wine with the freshness that envelops the alcoholic mass making it completely harmless.
Its flavor persistence is long with a finish of saffron and rhubarb root.
29 year old wine that absolutely doesn’t show it (95/100)
BADIA A PASSIGNANO – ANTINORI
Chianti Classico D.O.C.G. Gran Selezione, 2021 vintage
(bred in 3hl barrels – Production 140,000 bottles)
It has an intense purple-red appearance.
On the nose it diffuses aromas of clay and oil paint. linseed oil, mint, eucalyptus, black pepper, nutmeg, mild dried plum, black olive, mild meat ragout, black morello cherry, blond Virginia tobacco, chestnut honey to finish with woody notes of episperm (it is the sweet from the skin of the boiled chestnut).
On the palate the body is medium, explosive and then calms down and leaves room for freshness. The wine is well balanced thanks also to its flavor. The tannins are sweet, silky, broad (6/6-) and thick. Its taste persistence is long with a red cherry finish. Fortunately, the intrusiveness of the wood is no longer the same as in past years. The woodwinds are now French, less intrusive than the previous ones which were Hungarian.
(94/100)
BUIANO – ANTINORI
Chianti Classico D.O.C.G. Great selection, 2021 vintage
production area Castellina in Chianti loc. La Caprara – 5hl tonneaux only. First year of production. Bottles produced n. 4860.
It has an intense purple-red appearance.
Olfactory kaleidoscope composed of aromas of ripe black morello cherry (it is riper than that of Badia), very balsamic of mint, eucalyptus and sage. The olfactory journey continues with notes of smoking, red apple, linseed oil, rubber, black olive, fireplace wood ash, pear thigh, cinnamon to finish with pinches of wild strawberry.
Sip characterized by a medium plus continuous body, without sagging. Flavor of dark red cherry and black morello cherry.
Alcohol-freshness axis in perfect balance.
The tannins are sweet, broad (6/6–), initially silky and then slightly drying the upper gum.
Its intense aromatic taste persistence is long. (95/100)
VILLA CIGLIANO – ANTINORI
Chianti Classico D.O.C.G., Gran Selezione, 2021 vintage
Vineyards located in San Casciano Val di Pesa, only French barriques – bottles produced n. 5958
It has an intense purple-red appearance.
The nose is initially a little shy but when it opens it is marked by aromas of black olive, starch (starch spray for ironing), mint, eucalyptus, cherry, ripe blackberry, bay leaves, intense sage, rosemary, blood orange, damp earth, pomegranate, pear thigh , finishing with puffs of pea peel.
When tasted it has a medium body (rounder and softer than Buiano)
Blackberry flavor. Beautiful freshness that completely envelops the alcoholic mass.
The tannins are sweet, broad (6/6) initially silky and then slightly drying the upper gum. Its taste persistence is long.
You can feel the maturity of the Sangiovese. (96/100)
SAN SANO – ANTINORI
Classic Chianti D.O.C.G. Gran Selezione, 2021 vintage
The vineyards are in Gaiole – Tonnenaux 12 hl, bottles produced n. 5000
Intense purple red.
Aromas of black morello cherry, linseed oil, mint, eucalyptus, liquorice, peeled tomatoes, pea peel, ink, burnt wood ember, dog rose, finishing with flavors of ripe blackberry.
Upon tasting, it has a medium plus body, delicate at the same time and has a very light acetic acid.
Well balanced wine with the alcoholic mass silenced by freshness.
The tannins are sweet, broad (6/6–), ripe, initially silky and then dry the upper gum a little.
Its taste persistence is long. (95/100)
SOLAIA – ANTINORI
Toscana Rosso IGT, 2021 vintage
(grape variety: 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Franc)
Intense purple red – black coat.
Rich, explosive olfactory system, made up of aromas of fernet branca, mint (wood), plum, blackberry, cassis, intense blueberry, eucalyptus, black truffle, black pepper, linseed oil, starch (starch spray for ironing), licorice to finish with an intense scent of rubber.
The taste is an explosion of cassis and blueberry. The body is medium plus and the wine is well balanced with the freshness that completely envelops the alcoholic mass. The tannins are perfectly ripe and rich, sweet, broad (6/6-) and silky.
Its intense aromatic persistence is very long with a fruity finish of blackberry, cassis, plum and blueberries.
Beautiful mouth, endless flavors!.
If it had completely wide tannins it would have received maximum points. I remember that the 2015 had completely wide tannins of 100/100 and the 2016 had less wide tannins than the 2015, 98/100.(99/100)
