Piero Benvenuti hosted at a lunch in Florence, at Vito Mollica’s Salotto Portinari restaurant: Stefano Amerighi, Luca Managlia, Simone Fracassi, Roberto Venuta, Gianni Mercatali and myself.
Vito prepared a specific menu for us that would go well with the wines we had chosen to drink. The menu couldn’t have been better with the “Dover sole with champagne sauce and Oscietra caviar” we were served the Krug Grand Cuvée no. 168 (which contains the 2012 vintage).
This was followed by the “Medaglione di Gallinella with cacciucco sauce” which was enjoyed with an excellent Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 2008. The next course was “Pici with black cabbage with chicken cibreo and fine black truffle” with the which was served with the Saint Joseph 2021 from the maison Pierre Gonon and followed by the Volnay 2017 from Domaine Nicolas Rossignol.
The Clos de Tart 2003 from Domaine Mommessin was served with “Arista di grigio del Casentino with plums, smoked bacon and caramelized apples”. A perfect match given the ripeness of the wine’s fruit.
Lastly, with the dessert “Pithivier with almonds and raspberries with Grand Marnier ice cream”, we were served the 1997 Chateau Climens sauternes.
Exceptional lunch in the company of beautiful and pleasant people capable of appreciating both food and wines.
Vito pampered us during lunch without ever abandoning us.
In my opinion we are in one of the few Florentine haute cuisine restaurants.
Let’s now come to the wine tasting.
Regarding the width of the tannin, it is important to make the following clarifications so that it can be understood. I feel the tannin of the wine on the upper gum. The total width of the tannin is 6/6, i.e. the entire width of the upper gum. Obviously, if the tannin is less broad, it could be for example 5/6 and so on. The width of the tannin is important when the quality of the tannin is of good or high level. The larger the tannin, the more the wine is worthy of attention, but the tannin, as I have specified, must, in any case, be of good quality.
Let’s now move on to describing the wines tasted.
CHAMPAGNE KRUG
Grande Cuvée n. 168
(grape mix: 198 wines from 11 vintages, the youngest is 2012 and the oldest is 1996 composed of 52% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 13% Pinot Meunier)
Shiny golden yellow, very fine and quite numerous bubbles.
From the glass rise aromas of honey, flint, peanut butter, mint, eucalyptus, white pepper, slight aromas of dried white fig, almond shell, sweets from the outside of the dragee, juniper berry, graphite, finishing with light whiffs of green banana peel.
When tasted, it has fine bubbles, medium body, savory and mineral.
Wine well balanced between alcohol and freshness, the latter is rich and citrusy.
The tannins, due to the wood, are a little drying on the upper gum in the end.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long. (95/100)
CHAMPAGNE
POL ROGER SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL, annata 2008
(grape variety: 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay)
Bright golden yellow with numerous fine bubbles.
On the nose it releases aromas of acacia honey, pea peel, ripe rennet apple, light raisins, ending with sweet notes that recall the outside of the sugared almond.
On the palate the bubbles are fine and the body is medium. Rennet apple flavour. Well balanced wine with freshness that completely dominates the alcoholic mass. Its flavor persistence is long with a chestnut honey finish. The tannins of the wood can be felt a little and slightly dry the upper gum.
I recently drank the 2008 but in magnum format which I found more complex both olfactory and gustatory which I had given (97/100)
(94/100)
DOMAIN PIERRE GONON
SAINT JOSEPH, born 2021
(RODANO)
Purple red dress.
Pleasant aromas typical of Syrah immediately emerge on the nose such as plum, black olive, black pepper, worked leather, mint, eucalyptus, wild sex, morello cherry, finishing with hints of starch (starch spray for ironing).
On the palate there is a sufficient medium body plus and a pleasant juicy plum flavour. The wine has a perfect gustatory balance in fact the freshness completely dominates the alcoholic mass.
The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6+) and velvety.
Its taste persistence is long. Pleasant wine. (93/100)
DOMAINE NICOLAS ROSSIGNOL
VILLAGE VOLNAY, annata 2017
Transparent garnet red.
Olfactory mix made of aromas of raspberry, starch (starch spray for ironing), slightly candied cherry, starch from the cotton fabric and a slight alcoholic sensation.
In the mouth it has a medium body and is savory and fruity (ripe fruit). Wine with a slightly fluctuating balance between alcohol and freshness while the tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6) and velvety. Its flavor persistence is long with a candied cherry finish. A slightly mature wine with a bit of alcohol pungency both on the nose and on the palate.
(89/100)
DOMAINE MOMMESSIN
CLOS DE TART, annata 2003
Ruby red color with purple reflections
Articulated on the nose in tones of mint, eucalyptus, rosemary, sage, bay leaves, blackberry, plum, intense starch (spray for ironing) of coffee grounds, finishing with hints of jute.
On the palate it confirms the vintage of maturity but also of generous freshness. The wine has a medium plus body and has an excellent balance between alcohol and freshness. The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6) and velvety. Flavor of cherry, raspberry and plum. Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
Nice drink, its structure and fruit maturity stand out.
(94/100)
CHATEAU CLIMENS
SAUTERNES, vintage 1997
(grape variety: 100% Sémillon)
Light amber yellow coat.
Aromatic articulation with aromas of acacia honey, lemon tea, chamomile, milk toffee, tropical fruit (mango and papaya), finishing with light whiffs of starch (starch spray for ironing).
The taste has medium body and a chestnut honey flavour. Wine well balanced between alcohol and freshness only slightly burning the upper gum.
Its taste persistence is long. (94/100)
