What a wonderful event the Winefestival takes place in Merano. I have been going to this pleasant event for about 25 years, together with my friend Sergio Antonini. As usual we stay at the Hotel Patrizia in Tirolo, where the kindness of the staff and guests is never lacking.
I missed Merano for a few years because there were restrictions on inviting journalists.
This year, fortunately, both Sergio Antonini and I had accreditation and went to the splendid city of Merano. We went to the opening of the exhibition, we met the friendly and beautiful Stefania Naive Mafalda, and without a glass, we went to see who the exhibitors present were, noting that there were also new companies compared to the past, we greeted the exhibitors we knew and we signed up for a couple of Masterclasses, one was from the Lis Neris company and the second was from Tenuta Nicosia, a company with vineyards also on Etna. I really love the wines produced on Etna, because I generally find them very mineral and tasty.
I did numerous tastings of well-known wines and wines I didn’t know, both Italian and foreign.
The exhibition is well organized and the wines served were a perfect temperature. I went to visit Enrico Baldin to taste his “Encry” champagnes and I was particularly impressed by his Extra Brut which had an incredible minerality in both olfactory and gustatory terms.
There were many companies present both in the hall on the ground floor and in the other rooms.
The “Culinary” sector was also interesting, in which many companies in the food sector were present.
But let’s get to the two Masterclasses in which I participated.
The first was that of the Friulian company Lis Neris which is located in San Lorenzo Isontino, in the province of Gorizia.
The wines tasted were four white wines, Pinot Grigio in the 2022, 2018, 2013 and 2009 vintages.
The 2022 reflects the hot year that it was, in fact on the nose the wine had aromas of slightly ripe fruit, apple, pear, tropical fruit (mango and papaya), pine and star anise. On the palate it is buttery, savory and mineral. It has a medium body and the balance between alcohol and freshness is a little fluctuating.
On the nose I found the 2018 very mineral with strong graphite and smokiness of the mineral.
On the palate it is well balanced with medium body, slightly ripe pineapple and quince flavour. 2018 higher than 2022.
The 2013 has aromas of flint, vanilla, pear, apple, graphite and almond (Coccoina glue). On the palate it is savory and mineral, with a sufficient medium body and a good balance between alcohol and freshness.
Finally, the 2009 has aromas of pear, vanilla and light blond leather. On the palate it is a little buttery, savory, mineral but with a slightly fluctuating balance between alcohol and freshness as in the 2022. It was an interesting and pleasant vertical. Moving on to the Masterclass of the wines of Siciliana Tenuta Nicosia, a company I didn’t know, we started with a sparkling wine and then continued with six other wines as better described below. The Masterclass was entitled “The South-Eastern side of Etna. The Classical Method and the Monte Gorna and San Nicolò districts”.
I really like Etna wines because in general they are very mineral and tasty. We now come to describe the wines of this Masterclass which are not wines with high scores but are simple and pleasant wines.
NICOSIA ESTATE
STOP THREE SAINTS
CARRICANTE Brut, vintage 2020
Pas Dosè disgorged in March 2024.
Shiny golden yellow color with quite fine and quite numerous bubbles.
Olfactory mix made of aromas of chinotto, amaretto di Saronno, cedar peel, brioche bread, white flowers, iodine, flint, ending with whiffs of brewer’s yeast.
On the palate the bubbles are a bit evident.
The body is medium and the wine is well balanced between alcohol and freshness. Intense lemon and chinotto flavours.
Its persistence is long even if the body thins out quite quickly.
(88/100)
NICOSIA ESTATE
CONTRADA MONTE SAN NICOLO’, 2020 vintage
ETNA WHITE D.O.C. (ORGANIC)
(grape variety: 95% Carricante and 5% Minnella)
Straw yellow color.
From the glass rise aromas of summer melon, mint, fireplace ash, iodine, chalk, ending with memories of yellow flowers.
Upon tasting, it has a medium body and is savory.
Balanced wine with freshness that covers the alcoholic mass.
Its taste persistence is long.
(88/100)
NICOSIA ESTATE
CONTRADA MONTE GORNA, 2022 vintage
ETNA WHITE D.O.C. (ORGANIC)
(grape variety: 90% Carricante and 10% Catarratto)
Transparent straw yellow with gold reflections.
The olfactory debut recalls the mineral scent of kerosene, iodine, tropical fruit, chalk, graphite and ends with memories of Pineau des Charentes wine.
Pleasant, tasty bite of tropical fruit.
The body is medium and the wine has a good balance between alcohol and freshness.
Its taste persistence is long.
(90/100)
NICOSIA ESTATE
STOP THREE HOLY SIXTY-MONTHS, vintage 2016
ETNA D.O.C. BRUT NOT DOSE’
(grape variety: 100% Nerello Mascalese)
Light golden yellow with numerous fine bubbles.
The nose features aromas of flint, ripe banana, lemon, vanilla, finishing with whiffs of light eggnog.
The taste has fine bubbles and an intense lemon flavour. The body is medium but tends to thin out a little, leaving the flavor of lemon and lemon tea in its trail of persistence. Savory and well-balanced wine with freshness and flavor that make the alcoholic mass imperceptible.
(89/100)
NICOSIA ESTATE
CONTRADA MONTE SAN NICOLO’, 2020 vintage
ETNA ROSSO D.O.C. (ORGANIC)
(grape variety: 100% Nerello Mascalese)
Very light ruby red with garnet flash.
Bouquet composed of scents of medicinal herbs, light geranium, cherry, rosemary, cloves, furniture wax finishing with pinches of acetic acid.
The body is medium, the acidity is strong and there is a bit of a green note.
The tannins are sweet, velvety and quite broad (5/6).
Its taste persistence is long, thanks to its freshness.
(87/100)
NICOSIA ESTATE
CONTRADA MONTE GORNA, 2020 vintage
ETNA ROSSO D.O.C. (ORGANIC)
(grape variety: 90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello Cappuccio)
Light ruby red.
Aromas of ripe cherry, star anise and juniper berry.
On the palate there is a medium body and the wine has the freshness that covers the alcoholic mass making the wine balanced. The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6+) initially velvety and then dry the upper gum a little. Its taste persistence is quite long.
(89/100)
NICOSIA ESTATE
CONTRADA MONTE GORNA Old vines, 2015 vintage
ETNA ROSSO RESERVE D.O.C.
(grape variety: 100% Nerello Mascalese)
Ruby red coat.
The olfactory treasure chest opens to aromas of chalk, vanilla, graphite and ripe banana.
Upon tasting it is immediately pleasant to drink, a medium body and a good balance between alcohol and freshness while the tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6-), initially velvety and then dry and burn the upper gum a little.
Its taste persistence is long.
(89/100)
These were the two Mastercasses in which I participated, the rest of my time was dedicated to tasting wines from companies present and talking to producers, enthusiasts and workers in the wine sector.
As always in Merano, time passes quickly and as we leave and return home, our thoughts turn to the following year’s event.
