Shortly after booking a dinner at Les Enfants du Champagne, we learned that Giancarlo Perbellini had obtained three Michelin stars with his restaurant “12 Apostoli” in Verona. Giancarlo Perbellini has moved his restaurant from Piazza San Zeno to Vicolo Corticella San Marco, next to Piazza delle Erbe. The current place is a historic place, I would say, a museum, and has been revisited by Interior designer Patricia Urquiola. At the entrance to the restaurant there is a lounge that welcomes guests waiting to be accompanied to their table. Inside there are three rooms, the face room, the fresco room and the chef’s table.
Giancarlo Perbellini’s cuisine is inspired by flavors and seasonality, the fruit of memory and emotions.
Regarding the history of the place and the meaning of the name “The 12 apostles” I won’t reveal anything to you because it will be a great experience, going to the restaurant, walking around the place and hearing the narration of those who will accompany you.
Returning to our evening, les enfants du champagne (LEDC) have organized a blindfolded vertical of Champagne Krug Grand Cuveé for the end of November. We knew exactly which champagnes would be served but not the order of service. Leo Damiani (LEDC) was responsible for organizing the dinner as he is a friend of Giancarlo Perbellini. Apart from all the LEDCs, with the exception of Maurizio Tarquini, Roberto Schneuwly and Leo Damiani, Paolo Beltramini with his wife Beatrice and Vincenzo Tardini with his lawyer friend Umberto L’Astorino were also present.
Paolo and Vincenzo are the alternate LEDCs and are called when there are no LEDCs.
In my opinion, Krug represents the best Champagne Maison and the best champagne of this Maison, quality – price is the Grand Cuveè which is normally the result of a blend of a minimum of 120 wines to a maximum of 198 depending on the vintage, the result of the blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.
I must confess that I was very interested in doing this vertical, proposed by me, as these young champagnes have floral, fruity and mineral aromas and the taste is very rich in freshness, I would say overflowing.
I would like to say a few words about Vincenzo Tardini, a chartered accountant from Modena, a great Krug enthusiast and a great collector and connoisseur of Krug.
I had dinner with him several times in Modena at the Hosteria Giusti restaurant, drinking the most disparate bottles of krug. What lust!.
One evening Vincenzo also hosted Olivier Krug who candidly admitted that he had never drunk all the old vintages that were the subject of the evening because, according to him, his father sold all the champagnes. Giancarlo Perbellini dedicated a special menu to us and each course was paired with a champagne. Leo Damiani, despite missing the evening, surprised us by sending a magnum of Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque 2012 champagne, a bottle which was served as a pre-aperitif.
With the Welcome of Casa Perbellini the 172nd Edition was served.
Followed by the frozen zabaglione and smoked caviar accompanied by the 171 eme Edition. The 170th Edition followed with “my wafer…sea bass tartare, goat cheese with chives, liquorice”.
The 169 eme Edition was combined with the “Snapper, mascarpone and anchovies. Next was served “The sea in salad”, bathed in a tasty 168 eme Edition, while with “Lobster, ricotta, pistachio and pigeon and ginger broth” the pairing was perfect with the 167eme Edition. The chef saw fit to combine the 164 eme Edition with “Fusilli, turmeric, marinated gobbetto prawn and bay leaf powder”.
The 163 eme Edition was paired with the “crispy chicken and caviar”, while the 162 eme Edition was poured into the glass with the dish “Red red mullet, apples and fois gras”.
The menu continued with the “gnocco glazed with tomato water, egg foam and parmesan” with which the 159 eme Editon was served.
With the “persimmon, chestnuts and yogurt” and with “Le dolcezze di casa Perbellini” two Old, different, pre-numbered Edition glasses were poured into the glasses.
What an incredible dinner and what a fantastic tasting. As the Grand Cuveé ages, it continually changes both olfactory and gustatory.
During the evening Giancarlo Perbellini honored us with his presence by
gradually explaining to us the dishes that were served to us.
Now follow my tasting notes of the evening’s champagnes while the scores are the sum of those expressed by the 5 Les Enfants du Champagne present and the two alternates Vincenzo Tardini and Paolo Beltramini.
HOUSE PERRIER TOY
BELLE EPOQUE, vintage 2012
large format
(grape variety: 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier)
Shiny golden yellow shines from the glass while the bubbles are fine and quite numerous.
Intriguing and pleasant aromas among which the rubbed flint, the almond shell and the Helichrysum flower which has aromas of licorice, chamomile and mint emerge prominently. Followed by notes of white flowers, Marseille soap, iodine, finishing with whiffs of white pepper.
On the palate it is savory, mineral, citrusy, has a medium body and fine bubbles.
Well balanced wine with freshness that completely dominates the alcoholic mass. Its taste persistence is long with a finish of flint and pink grapefruit.
Fine and elegant wine.
(96/100)
MAISON KRUG
KRUG GRANDE CUVÉE
172 THE EDITION
(grape variety: 44% Pinot Noir, 36% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Meunier)
Composition of 146 wines from 11 different vintages of which the oldest wine is from 1998, while the youngest is from 2016.
It shines golden yellow with shiny flashes.
The bubbles are fine and numerous. Olfactory mix made of aromas of flint, Marseille soap, intense almond shell and lemon followed by peanut butter, Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk), rennet apple and thigh pear.
On the palate it is richly savory, mineral and lemony. The body is medium and the bubbles are fine. Well balanced wine with freshness and minerality that completely dominate the alcoholic mass. Wine of great longevity due to its rich minerality, flavor and freshness.
(94/100)
MAISON KRUG
KRUG GRANDE CUVÉE
171 EDITION
(grape variety: 45% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay and 18% Pinot Meunier)
Composition of 132 wines from 12 different vintages of which the oldest wine is from 2000, while the youngest is from 2015.
Upon visual examination it is bright golden yellow while the bubbles are very fine and numerous.
From the glass rise aromas of vanilla, intense mineral, white pepper, almond shell, yellow grapefruit, Marseille soap, Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk), finishing with caresses of liquorice.
When tasted it reveals a medium body that is a little less present than the 172. Savory, mineral wine with flavors of cedar and lemon peel and fine bubbles. Good taste balance with freshness that completely envelops the alcoholic mass. Its taste persistence is long with a pink grapefruit finish. The acidity of 171 is less present than that of 172.
(93/100)
MAISON KRUG
KRUG GRANDE CUVÉE
170 EME EDITION
(grape variety: 51% Pinot Noir, 38% Chardonnay and 11% Pinot Meunier)
Composition of 195 wines from 12 different vintages of which the oldest wine is from 1998, while the youngest is from 2014.
Shiny golden yellow coat with very fine and numerous bubbles.
Scents of Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk), flint, almond shell. old wood, finishing with intense hints of brewer’s yeast.
On the palate it has medium body, fine bubbles, a little woodiness is perceived. Richly savory wine, with a lemon flavor and a beautiful freshness that overwhelms the alcoholic mass making it completely balanced. Its taste persistence is long with an intense finish of yellow grapefruit.
I personally liked, in order, the 172, the 170 and finally the 171.
(94/100)
MAISON KRUG
KRUG GRANDE CUVÉE
169 EDITION
(grape variety: 43% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 22% Pinot Meunier)
Composition of 146 wines from 11 different vintages of which the oldest wine is from 2000, while the youngest is from 2013.
Shiny golden yellow color with very fine and quite numerous bubbles.
The sense of smell creates aromas of vanilla, peanut butter, licorice, green banana peel, broken cyclamen stem, intense aromas of Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk), thigh pear and juniper berry.
The freshness spreads across the entire width of the oral cavity and completely covers the alcoholic mass. The body is medium and the bubbles are fine.
Savory and citrusy lemon wine. Its taste persistence is long with a savory and citrusy finish.
(95/100)
MAISON KRUG
KRUG GRANDE CUVÉE
168 THE EDITION
(grape variety: 52% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 13% Pinot Meunier)
Composition of 198 wines from 11 different vintages of which the oldest wine is from 1996, while the youngest is from 2012.
Shiny golden yellow robe. The bubbles are very fine and quite numerous.
Olfactory debut with aromas of juniper berry, almond shell, old wood, intense of Coccoina glue (coconut milk and almond), finishing with touches of lemon.
When tasted it reveals a medium body, rich acidity and fine bubbles. The freshness and structure spread throughout the oral cavity.
Savory wine with a flavor of grated lemon peel. Thanks to the flavor and freshness, the alcoholic mass is imperceptible. Its taste persistence is long with a finish of juniper berry and lemon.
This is the vertical one that I liked most of all.
In my notes I wrote “real krug”.
(96/100)
MAISON KRUG
KRUG GRANDE CUVÉE
167 EDITION
(grape variety: 47% Pinot Noir, 36% Chardonnay and 17% Pinot Meunier)
Composition of 191 wines from 13 different vintages of which the oldest wine is from 1995, while the youngest is from 2011.
Shiny golden yellow color. The bubbles are very fine and quite numerous.
Aromas of raspberry hard candy, pine resin, juniper berry, LPG gas, almond shell finishing with whiffs of liquorice.
Pleasantly savory and mineral in the mouth.
You can feel the very ripe Pinot Noir fruit. The body is medium and the bubbles are fine and pleasant.
The acidity is rich and completely envelops the alcoholic mass. Its intense aromatic persistence is long with a finish of grated lemon peel.
Nice body and nice thickness.
(96/100)
MAISON KRUG
KRUG GRANDE CUVÉE
164 THE EDITION
(grape variety: 48% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 17% Pinot Meunier)
Composition of 127 wines from 11 different vintages of which the oldest wine is from 1990, while the youngest is from 2008.
It shines bright golden yellow with slightly amber reflections. The bubbles are very fine and numerous.
The olfactory stage shows aromas of candied cedar peel, mineral, oyster water, almond shell, squeezed lemon, intense aromas of green banana peel, almond biscuit, finishing with whiffs of candied cedar peel.
Pleasant bite due to its sapidity, minerality and intense lemon flavour. The body is medium and the bubbles are fine.
Well-balanced wine thanks to the flavour, minerality and citrus taste which cover, without second thoughts, the alcoholic mass.
Its flavor persistence is long with a yellow grapefruit finish.
In my notes I wrote: “nice maturity”.
(97/100)
MAISON KRUG
KRUG GRANDE CUVÉE
163 EDITION
(grape variety: 37% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay and 31% Pinot Meunier)
Composition of 145 wines from 12 different vintages of which the oldest is from 1990, while the youngest is from 2007.
Shiny golden yellow. The bubbles are fine and quite numerous.
Olfactory range composed of aromas of almond shell, LPG gas, mild of medicinal herbs, intense of Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk), “Perugina banana” chocolate, licorice ending with puffs of starch (starch spray for ironing).
On the palate you can perceive tannins that slightly dry the upper gum. The body is medium and the bubbles are fine. Flavor of medicinal herbs, rhubarb root, lemon and mineral. Alcohol – freshness axis in perfect symbiosis. Savory wine. Its taste persistence is long with an almond shell finish.
The only slightly negative note are the tannins which slightly dry the upper gum.
(95/100)
MAISON KRUG
KRUG GRANDE CUVÉE
162 THE EDITION
(grape variety: 44% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 21% Pinot Meunier)
Composition of 163 wines from 11 different vintages of which the oldest wine is from 1990, while the youngest is from 2006.
Golden yellow appearance with very fine and quite numerous bubbles.
Intense aromas of Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk), ripe banana, old wood followed by hints of slightly ripe rennet apple.
When tasted it reveals fine bubbles, a sufficient medium body +, an intense sapidity, minerality and lemon flavour. Well balanced wine with freshness that completely envelops the alcoholic mass. Its persistence is long with a finish of intense lemon tea and a very light zabaglione finish.
(94/100)
MAISON KRUG
KRUG GRANDE CUVÉE
159 EDITION
(grape variety: 51% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 19% Pinot Meunier)
Composition of 120 wines from 10 different vintages of which the oldest wine is from 1988, while the youngest is from 2003.
An intense golden yellow shines through the glass while the bubbles are very fine and quite numerous.
Nose composed of aromas of pine resin, LPG gal, almond shell and Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk). On the palate there is a medium plus body, fine bubbles, a flavor of amaretto di Saronno and almond shell. Thanks to the freshness the wine is well balanced and the alcoholic mass is imperceptible. Its taste persistence is long with an amaretto finish.
(96/100)
MAISON KRUG
KRUG GRANDE CUVÉE
OLD 2 ANTE EDITION numbering
(grape variety: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier)
Golden yellow and amber in colour, the bubbles are very fine and quite numerous.
On the nose it reveals its maturity and complexity, lavishing intense aromas of candied fruit of ripe banana, wild sex, almond, light zabaglione, ripe jujube and finally richly intense aromas of juniper berry.
On the palate it has extremely delicate bubbles.
The body is medium and the wine is savory and has the flavor of juniper berry and ripe banana. The freshness is well present and gives the wine a perfect balance.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long with a Saronno amaretto finish.
In the finish I felt that the tannins slightly dry the upper gum.
(96/100)
MAISON KRUG
KRUG GRANDE CUVÉE
OLD ANTE EDITION numbering
(grape variety: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier)
Amber yellow colour, more evolved than the previous Old. The bubbles are very fine and few in number.
At the olfactory onset you can feel the intense presence of old wood and juniper berry followed by LPG gas, hard almond shell and ripe banana, the slightly brown one.
Mouth with medium plus body, it has a good sweetness and almost non-existent bubbles.
Savory, mineral wine, with an almond shell flavour. The generously present freshness completely overwhelms the alcoholic mass. Its flavor persistence is long with a finish of juniper berry and ripe banana.
The body then tends to fade and it is the freshness that makes the wine persistent.
(96/100)
summary of the vertical
– Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque 2012 – Magnum 96/100
1) KRUG Grande Cuvée 164eme Edition 97/100
2) KRUG Grande Cuvée 168eme Edition 96/100
2) KRUG Grande Cuvée 167eme Edition 96/100
2) KRUG Grande Cuvée 159eme Edition 96/100
2) KRUG Grande Cuvée “old 2” ante numerazione Edition 96/100
2) KRUG Grande Cuvée “old ” ante numerazione Edition 96/100
3) KRUG Grande Cuvée 169eme Edition 95/100
3) KRUG Grande Cuvée 163eme Edition 95/100
4) KRUG Grande Cuvée 172eme Edition 94/100
4) KRUG Grande Cuvée 170eme Edition 94/100
4) KRUG Grande Cuvée 162eme Edition 94/100
5) KRUG Grande Cuvée 171eme Edition 93/100
