It had been a long time that I had wanted to go to Radda in Chianti to\nvisit Martino Manetti, owner of the “Montevertine” winery. The\ncompany was created by Sergio, Martino’s father. Sergio came from the steel\nindustry, he had created an important company in Poggibonsi called Elsasider.\nIn 1967 Sergio bought a farm in Radda in Chianti, at a time when there was the\nabandonment of sharecropping. Sergio’s idea, with the purchase of Montevertine\nwas to make a wine for family and friends. To do this, Sergio asked his close\nfriend Giulio Gambelli for advice on how to plant the vineyard and make wine.\nThe first vintage produced was in 1971.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The hand and advice of Giulio, the altitude of the vineyards, 300 meters\nabove sea level, the land, have ensured that the wines were immediately fine\nand elegant. Both Giulio and Sergio have never thought of making improvements.\nGiulio, to decide when to harvest, went to the vineyard, tasted the grapes, in\nvarious parts of the vineyard, feeling the pulp, the skin, and the grape seed\nwhich had to be crunchy and the tannins which should not have been bitter. If\neverything was in order he proceeded with the harvest. Martino has always\nfollowed, with interest, what both Giulio and his father, Martino, did in the\ncompany, jokingly baptized Giulio “the man of the mountain”. When he\narrived in Montevertine he went to the vineyard and tasted the grapes and gave\nhis consent to the harvest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Martino remembers well when Giulio, after only two days of fermenting\nthe wine, was able to understand what it would be like. In November 2000,\nSergio Manetti passed away prematurely and Martino felt strongly responsible\nfor being able to continue making the wine his father wanted. Martino obviously\ncontinued to avail himself of Giulio’s advice, until his death on 03 January\n2012.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Martino subsequently made use of the advice of Giulio’s pupil, the\noenologist Paolo Salvi, who, in my opinion, has an excellent nose. Sometimes,\ntaken by the enthusiasm of hearing his wines, I tell Martino that certain\nvintages he produced are better than certain wines of the 90s. To this\nstatement Martino denies all this, out of respect for his father.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The total vineyard area of \u200b\u200bMontevertine is approximately 18 hectares. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
“Le pergole\ntorte”<\/strong>\nwas planted in 1968 on an area of \u200b\u200b2 hectares, facing north and north-east; <\/p>\n\n\n\n “Montevertine”<\/strong> was planted in 1982 and\npartially replanted in 2008, with an area of \u200b\u200b2.5 hectares, facing South East\n– East. <\/p>\n\n\n\n “Il Sodaccio”<\/strong> was planted in 1972 and\nsubsequently replanted, in its entirety, in 2000, with an area of \u200b\u200b1.5\nhectares, facing South East; <\/p>\n\n\n\n “il Casino”<\/strong> was planted in 1999, with\nan area of \u200b\u200b2 hectares, facing South; <\/p>\n\n\n\n “Selvole”<\/strong> was planted in 1997, with\nan area of \u200b\u200b3.5 hectares and facing South East and South. <\/p>\n\n\n\n “Pian del\nCiampolo”<\/strong>\nwas planted in 2003 with an area of \u200b\u200b1.5 hectares and facing West and North\nWest; <\/p>\n\n\n\n “La Casa”<\/strong> vineyards planted partly\nin 2000 and partly in 2008, with an area of \u200b\u200b1 hectare and facing South; <\/p>\n\n\n\n “Bozzo ai Colli”<\/strong> was planted in 2000, with\nan area of \u200b\u200b2 hectares and facing South and West. <\/p>\n\n\n\n “Villanuova”<\/strong> was re-planted in 2010\nwith an area of \u200b\u200b1.3 hectares and facing South.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 90% of Sangiovese is produced by the company while 10% is made up of\nColorino and Canaiolo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The soils are rich in iron minerals, and Alberese rock and reach an\naltitude of 450 meters above sea level, composed of clays, sands, silt, marl\nand limestone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The red wines produced are the Pergole Torte made from 100% Sangiovese\ngrapes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The wine is aged for about 12 months in Slovenian oak barrels and 12\nmonths in Allier barriques.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The second wine is Montevertine, made up of 90% Sangiovese, 5% of\nColorino and 5% of Canaiolo and is aged for about 24 months in Slovenian oak\nbarrels. The third wine is Pian del Ciampolo, produced from Sangiovese,\nCanaiolo and Colorino grapes aged in oak barrels for about 12 months. Having\nmade this necessary premise, I move on to narrate what happened.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Days ago I contacted Martino to be able to make a vertical of\n“Pergole Torte” from the 2009 vintage to the 2017 vintage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I remember well the 2001 vintage, which I liked very much, the 2003 with\nslightly ripe grapes for the hot year, the 2004 beautiful vintage, well\nbalanced wine, the 2006 with a bit of alcohol pungency, the 2007 that I was\nloved for its gustatory balance, the 2008 similar to 2007 but with more\nstructure. Then I remembered 2009 and 2010 with a bit of a fluctuating effect\nbetween alcohol and freshness. This was an opportunity to experience certain\nvintages with absolute attention. Martino, available as always, organized this\ntasting which was attended by Martino, Sergio Antonini, Tancredi Reimitz,\nMartino’s nephew, the oenologist Paolo Salvi, successor of Giulio Gambelli, and\nmyself. As always, before starting a tasting I am full of tension because for\nme it is always a strong emotion. During the tasting I close in on myself, not\ncaring if the other tasters talk to each other. I must say that I remembered\nwell what I had perceived gustatively at different times when I had tasted the various\nvintages.<\/p>\n\n\n\n All the vintages tasted except 2012, for me of course, had a fantastic\nviolet on the nose and 2016 also an explosion of violet on the palate. In all\nvintages the wine had an incredible drinkability. The 2009 and 2010 tastes had\na little fluctuating effect between alcohol and freshness. The 2011 was a\nlittle more structured than the 2009 and 2010 and with greater gustatory\nbalance, but with a little dry tannins. The 2012 had a slightly more austere\nnose with notes of worked leather and ink and not so wide tannins. The 2013 is\ngrandiose with an intense and long finish of violet. The 2014 with a nice nose,\nbut a little tight tannins (not an easy vintage). The 2015 is fantastic with a\nviolet finish. 2016, for me the best vintage, with almost completely wide\ntannins and an interminable persistence of violet. In my opinion, 2017 was\naffected by the not easy vintage with a little acetic acid taste that I also\nfelt in the 2014 vintage. This flavor is typical of Pian del Ciampolo except\nfor the 2015 vintage which did not have it. 2017 is full of freshness and the\nbody of the wine is medium enough but, for me, it cannot be approached to 2016,\n2015 and 2013 as some critic journalists have done. It was a great experience.\nI was pleased to do this tasting with Paolo Salvi who has an excellent sense of\nsmell and with Tancredi who takes care of the commercial aspect of the company.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Let’s examine, carefully, the wines tasted, starting with my way of\nfeeling the tannins. As for the width of the tannin, it is important that you\nmake the following clarifications, so that it can be understood. I feel the\ntannin of the wine on the upper gum. The total width of the tannin is 6\/6,\ntherefore the entire width of the upper gum. Obviously, if the tannin is less\nbroad, it could be for example 5\/6 and so on. The width of the tannin is\nimportant when the quality of the same is of good or high level. If the tannin\nis broader, the more the wine is worthy of attention, but the tannin, as I have\nspecified, must in any case be of good quality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Let’s now pass to describe the wines tasted.<\/p>\n\n\n\n AZIENDA\nAGRICOLA MONTEVERTINE <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n PERGOLE\nTORTE vintage 2009<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Toscana\nIGT<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Quite intense ruby red color.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Complex and varied nose, from the glass rise aromas of cherries in\nalcohol, mint, eucalyptus, tow drenched in wine, black pepper, nutmeg,\nrosemary, violet soap, bay leaf, sage, hard almond shell, straw, white dried\nfig , jute, ending with puffs of helichrysum (licorice).<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate the wine is savory and mineral.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The body is medium fine. Slight gustatory swing between alcohol and\nfreshness even if the wine is endowed with a generous freshness. Sweet taste\nreminiscent of the outside of the sugared almond. The tannins are sweet, fairly\nbroad (5 \/ 6–), initially velvety and then dry the upper gum a little. Its\nintense aromatic persistence is long.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Interesting and varied wine from an olfactory point of view.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate the wine is not perfectly balanced. <\/p>\n\n\n\n (90\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n PERGOLE\nTORTE vintage 2010<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Toscana\nIGT<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Ruby red color with a slightly orange edge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the nose it is an explosion of violet and violet soap followed by\ncherry, mint, eucalyptus, toasted peanut, hairy red peach, black pepper,\nnutmeg, chamois leather, rust, to finish with hints reminiscent of peeled\ntomatoes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The taste is medium fine. Sapid and mineral wine, not perfectly balanced\nwith a slight fluctuating effect between alcohol and freshness, even if the\nlatter is rather generous and pleasant. The tannins are sweet, fairly broad\n(5\/6), initially both silky and velvety and then make the upper gum burn a\nlittle. Its persistence is long with a violet finish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n In my opinion, the alcohol that is perceived in 2010 is slightly higher\nthan in 2009. A bewitching wine also for its violet aftertaste. <\/p>\n\n\n\n (91\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n PERGOLE TORTE vintage 2011<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Toscana IGT<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Ruby red mantle with a fine\norange edge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Aromas of violet and violet\nsoap echoed by mint, eucalyptus, straw, cherry, nutmeg, light hairy red\npeaches, toasted peanuts, hard sugar sticks, to finish with a pinch of dry\nwhite fig. The body is medium, slightly higher than that of 2009 and 2010.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sapid and mineral wine with\na good balance between alcohol and freshness, more than 2009 and 2010.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The tannins are sweet,\nfairly broad (5 \/ 6–), initially velvety and then dry the upper gum a little.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Its gustative persistence\nis long. <\/p>\n\n\n\n (91\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n PERGOLE TORTE vintage 2012<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Toscana IGT<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Ruby red with a fine orange\nedge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the nose there are\naromas of worked leather and ink followed by notes of cherry, mint, eucalyptus,\nhard mint, intense oregano, tomato paste, rosemary, blackberry jam, to finish\nwith memories of Coccoina glue (milk coconut and almond).<\/p>\n\n\n\n When tasted, it shows a\nmedium-light body and a pleasant sapidity. Initially, you enjoy a pleasant\nfreshness which, however, fails to eliminate the slight fluctuating effect with\nalcohol. The tannins are not very wide (4\/6 ++), sweet, initially velvety, and\nthen dry the upper gum a little.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Its gustative persistence\nis long.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This is the only vintage of\nthe vertical in which I haven’t heard the violet, but I’m sure it will come out\nover time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n (90–\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n PERGOLE TORTE, vintage 2013<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Toscana IGT<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Intense ruby red color.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Olfactory mix made of\nscents of chalk, cherry, straw, mint, eucalyptus, black pepper, nutmeg,\nCoccoina glue (coconut milk and almond), rosemary, bay leaf, sage, raspberry,\nviolet, violet soap, to finish with pinches of pine resin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The body is medium plus\nwith a slightly spicy black pepper flavor. Sapid and mineral wine, well\nbalanced with the freshness which, aided by the tannins, completely dominates\nthe alcoholic mass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The tannins are sweet,\nfairly broad (5\/6 ++), silky and velvety.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Its gustative persistence\nis long, during which a splendid violet can be enjoyed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Unquestionably a beautiful\nwine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n (96\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n PERGOLE TORTE vintage 2014<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Toscana IGT<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Beautiful ruby red.<\/p>\n\n\n\n From the glass emerge\nscents of leather at the end of the tannery process, then slowly the nose\nperceives an intense violet and violet soap followed by mint, intense\neucalyptus, warm starched cloth, cherry, tomato paste, wet earth and hairy\npeach red.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Taste that reveals a\nsufficient medium body with a slight taste of acetic acid and violet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Balanced wine between\nalcohol and freshness, the latter dominates the former. The tannins are sweet,\nnot very broad (4\/6), initially velvety and then dry the upper gum a little.\nIts gustative persistence is long with a violet and cherry finish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n (90\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n PERGOLE TORTE, vintage 2015<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Toscana IGT<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Quite intense ruby red\ndress.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The olfactory encounter\nreveals aromas of chamois, hard candy cane, hard almond shell, ripe morello\ncherry, starch (starch spray for ironing), almond and licorice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Generous medium body. Well\nbalanced wine with imperceptible alcoholic mass thanks to the freshness and\ntannins. The latter are fairly wide sweets (5\/6 ++) and velvety. Its\npersistence is long with a violet finish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Nice wine that over time,\nin my opinion, will express itself more from an olfactory point of view.<\/p>\n\n\n\n In this vintage all three\nwines produced by the company have been very structured, even the third wine\nPian del Ciampolo did not have, to the taste, the typical acetic acid that\nMartino Manetti likes so much. <\/p>\n\n\n\n (96\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n PERGOLE TORTE, vintage 2016<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Toscana IGT<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Quite intense cardinal\ncolor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The olfactory casket opens\nto aromas of toasted peanuts, starch (spray starch for ironing) intense violet,\nmint, eucalyptus, cherry, camphor, rosemary, bay leaf, sage with a finish that\nrecalls oregano.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The body is medium\nstrengthened. Flavor of fantastic violet that spreads throughout the oral\ncavity. Perfectly balanced wine. The generous freshness and tannins dominate,\nwithout second thoughts, the alcoholic mass. The tannins are sweet, velvety and\nbroad (6 \/ 6–). Its intense gustative persistence is very long, with a very\nrich violet finish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Nice drink and nice\nfreshness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n It would have reached, in\nmy opinion, the maximum score if it had had completely wide tannins. <\/p>\n\n\n\n (99\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n PERGOLE TORTE, vintage 2017<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Toscana IGT<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Ruby red color respecting\nthe vintage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bouquet of violet, violet\nsoap, mint, eucalyptus, freshly baked hot bread, cherry, black pepper, nutmeg,\nsweet outside of the candy, to finish with mineral notes of graphite.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When tasted, the body is\nmedium enough and it is sapid and mineral. You feel a little acetic acid which\naccentuates the freshness. Balanced wine with the alcoholic mass silenced by\nthe freshness. The tannins are sweet, fairly broad (5 \/ 6–), initially velvety\nand then allow the upper gum to dry a little. The violet soap flavor remains\nthroughout its long gustatory persistence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n It recalls the 2014 vintage\nfor the taste of mild acetic acid, and the third wine of the company, Pian del\nCiampolo, in all vintages except for the 2015 vintage. Pian del Ciampolo\nusually has a greater acid flavor acetic compared to what felt in Pergole Torte\n2014 and 2017. This 2017 has somewhat dry and green tannins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n It is good to remember that\nthe 2017 and 2014 vintages were very difficult. <\/p>\n\n\n\n (90\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" It had been a long time that I had wanted to go to Radda in Chianti to visit Martino Manetti, owner of the “Montevertine” winery. The company was created by Sergio, Martino’s father. Sergio came from the steel industry, he had created an important company in Poggibonsi called Elsasider. In 1967 Sergio bought a farm […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":11027,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"gallery","meta":{"tdm_status":"","tdm_grid_status":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[1],"tags":[137,353,468],"class_list":["post-11258","post","type-post","status-publish","format-gallery","has-post-thumbnail","category-uncategorized","tag-paolo-baracchino","tag-pergole-torte","tag-sangiovese-traditions","post_format-post-format-gallery"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/20210312_132626.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/pav13q-2VA","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11258","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=11258"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11258\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11262,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11258\/revisions\/11262"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/11027"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=11258"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=11258"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=11258"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}