<\/p>\n\n\n\n
As we know, at the Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, for\nsome time, evenings have been periodically held where three wines are served\npaired with three courses of food. The wines paired with the dishes on the\nvarious evenings were from Burgundy, white or red, Italians from Tuscany and\nPiedmont.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
on 21.04.22 an evening was to be held with three red\nGrand Crus from Burgundy and therefore with friends Nicola and Maria Grazia\nMenditto, Valerio and Francesca Mearini, my wife Sara and myself we went, with\nkeen interest, to the Enoteca Pinchiorri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
On the evening of the event, we were welcomed by\nGiorgio Pinchiorri and Alessandro Tomberli, general managers, who made us sit\nin a room dedicated only to us.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
I asked Alessandro, who personally assisted us in the\nwine service, not to serve us a “woody” champagne to begin with,\nsince the one I drank the last time I went to them was, it was Champagne\nChartogne-Taillet “Les Conarr\u00e9s”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Alessandro served us with the mise en bouche the\nChampagne Cuv\u00e9e Louis Salmon from the Maison Billecart – Salmon, a champagne\nthat I liked.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The red wines of the evening would have been among\nthree Burgundy red Grand Crus:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
the red Grand Cru of Burgundy the Clos des Lambrays\n2018, the Clos de Tart 2018 and La Grande Rue 2018. But let’s get closer to\nthese between Domaine and Domaine Des Lambrays.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Let’s move on to the first wine of the evening.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The first testimony of the Clos de Lambrays takes us\nto the year 1365, in a deed of ownership of the Abbey of Citeaux. Over the\ncenturies the Clos has fragmented into many different properties, arriving in\nthe mid-1800s to be owned by 70 different owners. Since 2014, almost all of the\nClos has been owned by the LVMH group with the exception of about 500 m2 which is\nowned by the Domaine Tapenot-Merme. Because of this dual property of the Clos,\nit cannot be defined as a Monopole.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The extension of the Clos is divided into three parts,\nalso by virtue of the different microclimate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The central part which is also the largest is called\n“Les Larrits”, the northern part is called “Les Bouchots”\nand the third which occupies the lower corner is called “Meix\nReutier”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
These wines, as you can read in my following notes,\nare characterized by fruity and spicy aromas (cherry, raspberry, nutmeg and\ncloves)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Speaking of the land of the Clos, they are identified\nbetween parcels by virtue of the altitude and the composition of the land. One\nparcel reaches an altitude of 330 meters (the highest) among the Grand Crus of\nMorey. As you go up, the clay is less and the wine has less structure, so much\nso that often part of these grapes that give a less structured wine, are used\nfor the premier Cru “Les Loups”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The dish was served with the Clos des Lambrays 2010:\n“rice, carrots, star anise, capers and bay leaves”, the combination\nwas perfect in my opinion and the fruity and spicy notes of the wine\nintertwined perfectly with the food.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Let’s move on to the second wine:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Domaine Clos de Tarte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It is a Monopole, that is, vineyards belonging to a\nsingle property. It is the largest Monopole Grand Cru (7.5 hectares) in all of\nBurgundy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
In nearly nine centuries this Monopole has had only\nfour owners.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
From 1141 to 1791 the property belonged to the Abbey\nof Tart; from 1791 to 1932 the property belonged to the Marey – Mouge family;\nfrom 1932 to 2018 it was owned by the Mommessin family and from 2018 to today\nthe Domaine is owned by the Pinault family.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The vines are surrounded by the typical dry stone wall\nand draw their lifeblood from different terrains which correspond to 12\ndifferent sectors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The vinifications are made separately in each sector.\nThe soil has six different types of limestone which give rise to a fruity and\nbalsamic wine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The following was served with this wine: “apple\nand spice cappelletti, fresh ricotta cream and Casentino lamb sausage”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Even the pairing was perfect, the fruity notes of the\nwine reconciled well with the spiciness of the dish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The third wine was:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Domaine La Grande Rue<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It is a 1.65 h Monopole domaine owned by the Larmarche\nfamily in the early 1900s. In 1933 Henri became the owner of the La Grande Rue\nvineyard, as a wedding gift from his uncle Edouard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
La Grande Rue was originally a 1 Cru and has become a\nGrand Cru since 1989. The domaine is now managed by two of Henri’s sons: Fran\u04abois and Genevi\u00e8ve who became owners following their\nfather’s death in 1985.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This Domaine borders to the north with Roman\u00e9e – Conti\nand the Roman\u00e9e Saint Vivant and to the south with the Tache. The boundaries\nare represented by a very small country road.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The vineyard of this Domaine is characterized by a\nrich presence of clay and traces of iron oxide.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This wine was paired with: “braised leg of kid,\npea and lettuce sauce with peat whiskey sauce”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The food-wine pairing was perfect because the dish was\nquite structured as well as the wine and therefore they went well together.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Let’s start with the aperitif that was served to us:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
CHAMPAGNE BILLECART SALMON<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Cuv\u00e9e\nde Blancs, vintage 2007<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Golden yellow colour. The bubbles are fine and quite\nnumerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Olfactory mix made of scents of vanilla, ripe rennet\napple, peach juice, blond leather, Kaiser pear, ending with memories of the\nsweet exterior of the sugared almond.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate the bubble is fine and the body is\nmedium. Lemon citrus flavor accompanied by a generous savory, almost salty\nnote. Well balanced wine with freshness and sapidity that completely cover the\nalcoholic mass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Its intense gustatory persistence is long. (94\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DOMAINE DES LAMBRAYS<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n CLOS DES LAMBRAYS<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n GRAND CRU, vintage 2018<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Ruby red with purple hints.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The olfactory debut is varied and made up of aromas of\nold wood, mint, eucalyptus, worked leather, raspberry, cherry, black pepper,\nintense nutmeg and cloves, star anise, fig leaf, light black olive brine ,\nvanilla, licorice, ending with whispers of India ink.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The palate reveals medium body and some youthful\nexuberance with tannins that are initially velvety before drying and burning\nthe upper gum a little. The balance of the wine fluctuates a little between\nalcohol and freshness. Long but not very long is its gustatory persistence.\nVery young wine!. Maturity will definitely improve it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n My score is also in the future. (93\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DOMAINE DU CLOS DE TART<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n CLOS DE TART<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n MONOPOLE, GRAND CRU, vintage 2018<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Ruby red coat\nwith large purple textures.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Fruity aromas of\nintense black marasca cherry rise from the glass, followed by crunchy cherry,\nraspberry and red peach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The olfactory\npath continues with notes of mint, eucalyptus, licorice, ending with puffs of\nstar anise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate\nthe wine has a well-dosed medium body.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Quite balanced\nwine but, being very young, it will balance more when it stays in the bottle.\nThe tannins are quite central (4\/6++), initially they are velvety and then in\nthe finish they let the upper gum dry and burn a little. Alcohol and freshness\nas mentioned above are slightly fluctuating between them. Its intense aromatic\npersistence on the palate is long.<\/p>\n\n\n\n My assessment is\nalso in view of the future loss of youthful impetuosity. <\/p>\n\n\n\n (93\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DOMAINE\nLA GRANDE RUE <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n NICOLE\nLAMARCHE <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n MONOPOLE GRAND CRU, vintage 2018<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Ruby red color\nwith pink onion-coloured edge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The olfactory\nimpact is very pleasant and varied. Perceived aromas of vanilla, boiled\nchestnut with wild fennel, ripe raspberry, ripe red apple, baccara rose and\nhints of dog rose, mint, eucalyptus and wet plaster.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate it\nreveals a medium plus body. Wine with good gustatory balance (slight swing)\nbetween alcohol and freshness, certainly given its youth, it will be more\nbalanced in the future. The tannins are sweet, wide (6\/6–) initially velvety\nand then feel a little green on the upper gum. Time, in my opinion, will no\nlonger make them feel that way. Its intense aromatic persistence is long. It\nseems that the wine has been vinified even if minimally with stalks, which is\nwhy the slightly green tannins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n At the moment my\nevaluation is (95\/100) <\/strong>with the\npossibility in the future, with the appeasement of his youthful vehemence, of\nbecoming (97\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n From my personal\nexperience, I have seen that at least after ten years the green of the tannins\nof the grape stalks disappears and the wine becomes all pleasantness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If there is a\nperfume that is exceptional for me it is the “dog rose” synonymous\nwith delicacy, sensuality and pleasantness.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" As we know, at the Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, for some time, evenings have been periodically held where three wines are served paired with three courses of food. 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