At the Pandolfini auction house in Florence there was\na tasting of the Trentino spumante Giulio, reserve of the Founder of the\nFerrari company, seven vintages from 2007 to 1986, all bottles in magnum\nformat. It was an event I conceived together with Francesco Tanzi, wine expert\nof the Pandolfini Auction House with the fundamental help of the Lunelli\nfamily. Ideas aren’t enough if there’s no one to help you make them happen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Some time before, I had contacted Marcello Lunelli, a\nfriend of the family that owns the Ferrari company who put me in touch with\nMatteo Lunelli, the company’s managing director, who was enthusiastic about\nthis initiative.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Other times before the wine auctions, the Pandolfini\nauction house has organized tastings of red wines and champagne, but this was\nthe first time that a tasting of Italian sparkling wines had been organised. It\nwas obvious that it had to be done with bubbles, for me the absolute number\none, in Italy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Matteo puts me in touch with Ruben Laurentis, the\nFerrari winemaker, a person I’ve known for many years who is immediately\nenthusiastic about this event. Following, after the tasting, there would have\nbeen a light lunch organized by the Enoteca Pinchiorri during which the Ferrari\nPerl\u00e9 2016, Trento doc and the Ferrari Perl\u00e9 Ros\u00e9 Riserva 2016 Trento doc would\nhave been served.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
April 27, 2022 is the pre-established date for this\nsplendid tasting conducted by the oenologist Ruben Laurentis and myself.\nPublic, about ninety people, enthusiasts, journalists also as possible buyers of\nwines from the auction that would follow.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Wine service by the excellent sommeliers of the\nEnoteca Pinchiorri, directed by the director of the Enoteca Pinchiorri,\nAlessandro Tomberli.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
All the participants, myself included, were interested\nand excited because it’s not every day that one can have such a profound\ntasting over time with all bottles in magnum format, constantly stored at a\ntemperature of 12 degrees in the Ferrari cellars.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Francesco Tanzi made an initial presentation of the\nevent, of Ruben and of me. Ruben started talking about the company, the lands\nand the Giulio. The Ferrari company is located in Trento. Giulio is made only\nof Chardonnay grapes, coming from Maso Panizza, at an altitude between 500 and\n600 meters east of Trento. It was Mauro Lunelli, the family oenologist who\nplanted more than twelve hectares in Maso Panizza in the mid-sixties. The\ncompany was purchased in 1952 from the Lunelli family by Mr. Giulio Ferrari.\nWho negotiated the deal was Bruno Lunelli who was succeeded by his children\nFranco, Giorgio, Gino, Carla and Mauro and in turn their children took over.\nThe first vintage of Giulio produced and marketed was 1972 by Mauro Lunelli who\nwanted to make a bubble that approached perfection.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
But let’s go back to our tasting, obviously we started\nfrom the youngest bubble to get to the oldest and then: 2007, 2005, 2004, 2001,\n1999, 1995 and 1986.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Normally with red wines we start from the oldest wine\nto the youngest because the young wine has more tannins in evidence which could\ncompromise the evaluation of older wines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
In this case there was also a very specific why. Ruben\nspecified that “Giulio” must have an “always” constant\ntemperature of 12 degrees during his life and this cannot happen normally.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
What are the restaurants and\/or private cellars that\ncan guarantee this temperature? Who can guarantee that during the transport of\nwine the temperature is 12 degrees. The beauty of this tasting is that Ruben\nmade us feel like a 2007 wine matures, evolves and reaches, compatibly with the\nyear of production, the olfactory and gustatory evolution of the older years.\nDuring the tasting, Ruben explained the climatic trend to us year after year\nand took us by the hand, making us understand how the Giulio evolves over time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
My contribution was to analyze each single vintage by\nfinding an olfactory and gustatory common thread between one vintage and\nanother.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
I enjoyed sharing some experiences I had with the\n“Giulio”. I got to know this splendid spumante thanks to Varo\nTagliafraschi, a historic, old-fashioned Florentine sales agent who had no\nproblem sending a company he represented to hell if a client of his was\nwronged. We are talking about the end of the eighties, when I drank Giulio\nFerrari for the first time and I was struck by it. Through Varo I was able to\nbuy case after case, so much so that at one point he said to me: “Paolo,\naren’t you by any chance selling the Giulio I’m supplying you with?” I\ntold him not to worry because I believed in that product and when I believe in\na product I love to consume it and give it to friends.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
I then remembered when, always at the beginning of my\nmeeting with “Giulio”, in tasting the 1979 I defined it Krug-like\nbecause the nose had hints of peanut butter and flint that reminded me of Krug\nchampagne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
I remember when a few years ago I asked Marcello\nLunelli if I could go to his company with some friends to do a handstand of\nGiulio. Marcello was happy and so were we. We arrived half an hour before the\nappointment, the reception person takes us for a drink and I, curious, see an\nopen door of a tasting room and I look out and to my enormous amazement I feel\nan immense and pleasantly overwhelming smell of Coccoina glue .<\/p>\n\n\n\n
I worry, and then I’ll explain why, because we should\nhave had the tasting in a room contaminated by smells that would have disturbed\nour tasting. After a while Marcello arrived and with his usual cordiality and\nhis smile asked me if we had had a good trip.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Given my concern, I immediately asked Marcello the\nreason for that strong smell of Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk) and\nimmediately Marcello would reply by telling me that the night before there had\nbeen a tasting of Giulio’s in that room and that the dirty glasses had been\nremoved half an hour before our arrival. The hall was aired and then the\n“intruder” would leave.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This vertical was very important to me because I\nunderstood that a recurring perfume in Giulio is Coccoina glue, but not only\nthat, another recurring perfume is juniper berry which I originally called shoe\nwax perfume in the metal package.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Lastly I recalled when about 15 years earlier I\norganised, at “Alla Corte del Vino” in Mercatale Val di Pesa at the\nVilla owned by Duccio, Corsini, a tasting of eight bubbles, seven champagnes\nand the Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Among the champagnes there were vintage Krug and Salon\nand other less important champagnes but all vintage. Marcello who was present\nat the event told me that for the event he had specially disgorged the Giulio\n1995. The bubbles were served blindfolded, everyone knew the wines that would\nbe served but not the order of service. The Giulio was mistaken by all for a\nhigh-level champagne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Once these pleasant memories were finished, we started\nthe tasting. My tasting notes follow.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
GIULIO FERRARI, vintage 2007<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Harvest: between 1st and 6th\nSeptember<\/p>\n\n\n\n Tirage : July 2008<\/p>\n\n\n\n Disgorgement: February 2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dosage : 2,5 gr\/lt<\/p>\n\n\n\n Shiny golden yellow colour. The bubbles are fine and\nmoderately numerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the nose stand out aromas of juniper berry, coccoin\nglue (coconut and almond milk), pineapple, sweets from the outside of the\nsugared almond, slightly unripe rennet apple, star anise, fresh leather, the\nblond one, light zabaglione, slightly withered cyclamen , flint, helichrysum\n(licorice) to end with hints of coriander.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate the bubbles are fine and caressing and\nthe body is medium. Flavors of unripe rennet apple and light eggnog. Generous\nis the freshness that makes the wine well balanced and helps it in its long\npersistence. <\/p>\n\n\n\n (93\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n GIULIO FERRARI, vintage 2005 <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Harvest: between 10 and 15\nSeptember <\/p>\n\n\n\n Tirage: July 2006 <\/p>\n\n\n\n disgorgement: February 2017 <\/p>\n\n\n\n Dosage: 3gr\/lt<\/p>\n\n\n\n Wears bright gold. The bubbles are quite fine and\nquite numerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the nose, the aromas of amber, juniper berry,\nflint, slightly unripe rennet apple, white pepper, pineapple, slight zabaglione\nand peanut butter stand out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n There are hints of Coccoina glue and blond leather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate the bubbles are fine and delicate. Sapid\nand mineral wine with medium body.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Slightly unripe rennet apple flavour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Pleasant is the freshness that does not even minimally\nfeel the alcoholic mass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Its gustatory persistence is long with a finish of\nsomewhat unripe rennet apple, lemon and yellow grapefruit. <\/p>\n\n\n\n (94\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n GIULIO FERRARI, vintage 2004<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n harvest: between 20 and 25 September<\/p>\n\n\n\n Triage: June 2005<\/p>\n\n\n\n disgorgement: October 2015<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dosage: 2,5gr\/lt<\/p>\n\n\n\n Golden yellow robe. The bubbles are fine and quite\nnumerous. Perfumes of amber rise from the glass, sweets from the outside of the\ncandy, white pepper, eggnog, hard lemon candy, Coccoina glue, grated lemon peel\n(bergamot), yeast yeast, ripe pineapple, juniper berry, rust , blond leather,\nwarm starched cloth, to end with sighs of broken cyclamen stem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On entry into the mouth you can enjoy quite fine\nbubbles and a medium body.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Well balanced wine, with freshness dominating the\nalcohol mass. Slightly sweet initial flavors, then lemon, rennet apple and\nlemon hard candy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Its persistence is long with a slightly bitter finish\nreminiscent of yellow grapefruit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n (93\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n GIULIO FERRARI, vintage 2001<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n harvest : between 20 and 23\nSeptember<\/p>\n\n\n\n Tirage : June 2002<\/p>\n\n\n\n disgorgement: July 2018<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dosage: 4 g\/lt<\/p>\n\n\n\n Intense golden yellow coat. The bubbles are very fine\nand quite numerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Olfactory mix made of aromas reminiscent of hot bread\njust out of the oven, flint, intense Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk),\nrennet apple a little unripe juniper berry, sweets from the outside of the\nsugared almond, pineapple, zabaglione, intense almond hard shell, cantuccini\nbiscuits from Prato to end with pinches of coriander.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The oral cavity is caressed by fine bubbles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The body is medium and the wine is savory and mineral.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The freshness is generous and not only makes the wine\nbalanced but helps it in the length of its gustatory persistence. When the body\nthins out a bit, it is the freshness that helps it to have a long finish. In\nthe finish it has flavors of rennet apple core, lemon and yellow grapefruit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n (93\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n GIULIO FERRARI, vintage 1999<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n harvest: between 20 and 25\nSeptember<\/p>\n\n\n\n Tirage : June 2000<\/p>\n\n\n\n disgorgement: January 2016<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dosage: 4 g\/lt<\/p>\n\n\n\n Golden yellow color, shiny with slight gray\nreflections.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The bubbles are very fine and quite numerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Rich and varied nose made of aromas of flint, juniper\nberry, sweets from the outside of the sugared almond, white pepper, amber, talcum\npowder, eggnog, green banana peel yeasts, Coccoina glue, green olives in brine,\ngrated lemon peel , to finish with references of ripe jujube.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Palate pampered by fine bubbles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sapid and mineral wine, with medium body and flavors\nof lemon, lime and honey.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The freshness and minerality, very present, make the\nwine completely balanced. Its intense gustatory persistence is long with a pink\ngrapefruit finish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n (95\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n GIULIO FERRARI, vintage 1995<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n harvest :\nbetween 28 September and 5 October<\/p>\n\n\n\n Tirage : July\n1996<\/p>\n\n\n\n disgorgement:\nFebruary 2018<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dosage: 3 g\/lt<\/p>\n\n\n\n Light golden\nyellow dress. The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous. Extremely rich and\nvaried nose. Intense aromas of juniper berries and melted butter, followed by\ndried banana, amber, blond leather, iodine, flint, hints of green banana peel,\neggnog, pineapple, white pepper, hints of pickled green olives, grated lemon\npeel (Bergamot), chamomile to finish with the hard shell of the almond.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When tasted, the\nbubbles are fine and pleasant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The body is\nmedium and the pleasant freshness makes the wine completely balanced.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Long is its\nintense aromatic persistence with a finish of eggnog, lemon and juniper berry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Very vertical\nwine that goes very deep. Wine still young !<\/p>\n\n\n\n With an empty\nglass, the scent of dried banana is felt on the nose.<\/p>\n\n\n\n (97\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n GIULIO FERRARI, vintage 1986<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n harvest : between 15 and 20\nSeptember<\/p>\n\n\n\n Tirage : April 1987<\/p>\n\n\n\n disgorgement: May 2020<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dosage: 3 g\/lt<\/p>\n\n\n\n Shiny golden\nyellow colour. The bubbles are very fine and quite numerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The olfactory\nstage is rich and varied with an intense initial, ripe banana scent, followed\nby notes of flint, toasted peanuts, sweets from the outside of the candy, ripe\njujube, juniper berry, cotton starch, green olive brine, starch from the cotton\nfabric, hard almond shell, Coccoina glue, coriander, dried fig, dried date,\nhelichrysum, lemon yeast and the inner white part of the watermelon peel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Pleasant taste\nwith fine bubbles. The body is medium and the wine is richly sapid and mineral\nas well as perfectly balanced.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The alcoholic\nmass is imperceptible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Its gustatory\npersistence is long thanks also to its sapidity and freshness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Lemon finish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The wine, even\nif it has some evolved notes, has a lively and generous freshness. <\/p>\n\n\n\n