About a year ago Vito Mollica announced that he was\nleaving the Four Seasons in Florence to go to Dubai to consult some\nrestaurants, but that he would then return to Florence and so, to the joy of\nall of us, this happened.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The Mine & Yours Group has purchased the property\nof Palazzo Portinari, approximately 10,000 square meters, in the heart of\nFlorence in Via del Corso, in the building there is a hotel with only 13\nsuper-luxury suites and 25 apartments.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The restaurant business has been taken over entirely by\na company in which Vito Mollica is the protagonist. The “Salotto Portinari\nBar and Bistrot” was opened in mid-April. Subsequently, “the cocktail\nBar Salotto Portinari” was opened, with only 14 seats in an environment\nwith a suffused atmosphere suitable for enjoying an aperitif or a distillate\nafter dinner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Then there is the “Beatrice room” which can\naccommodate up to 40 guests for private events, lunches, dinners and meetings. Vito\nis supported, in the gastronomic proposals by the two Restaurant Managers\nRosario Bernardo and Paolo Acunto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Finally there is the “Chic Nonna” restaurant\nwhich is located in the central part of the Palazzo which is the oldest part,\nin the beautiful Corte degli Imperatori enriched by the frescoes by Alessandro\nAllori, one of the most important artists of the Florentine sixteenth century.\nIn the room there is also a beautiful and deep painting by the master Antonio\nManzi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Vito has focused the menus on seasonality with a\ntraditional matrix. The ingredients are selected from local and world\nexcellence. There are two tasting menus of five courses each. The “Costa\ndegli Imperatori” tasting menu, a combination of fish and meat and the\n“Rubabriciole” menu which offers vegetarian dishes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The dining room is managed by Mark Ignatov and Davide\nAltobelli with French service, that is simple but elegant with a class of\nrefined oriental taste.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The wine list, for the moment, has 300 labels mainly\nbetween Italian and French wines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The talented Tim Ricci is the pastry consultant who\ncharms the palates of the guests.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Mr. Nelson Chang and his Taiwanese team have made a\nmulti-million dollar investment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Last June 20th there was the inauguration of the\n“Chic Nonna” restaurant for journalists. It was an informal meeting\nwith access and stop in the beautiful and spacious kitchen. Pleasant dishes. I\nhonestly felt a different cuisine from that of Vito when he was chef at the\nFour Seasons in Florence, a cuisine that is not excessively innovative but with\nmore traditional flavours. This is my humble opinion. Every description seems\nsuperfluous, try to believe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The experiences must be lived in first person. Vito\nMollica and his fantastic team welcome guests with sympathy and charm and every\ntime you live an indelible experience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Some time ago I suggested to the “Les enfants du\nchampagne” to have one of our tasting-dinners at Chic Nonna and everyone\nwas enthusiastic about living this experience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Vito accepted with pleasure to welcome us despite the\nNovember day chosen by us falling on a Tuesday, the closing day of the\nrestaurant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
We were all present at the evening with the exception\nof Stefano Azzolari who quietly went with friends to go on a gypsy trip to\nBordeaux. The Blanc de Blancs champagnes chosen would come from the 2008 and\n2012 vintages, two important vintages.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
At the Salotto Portinari cocktail bar we were served\nblindfolded a J. de Telmont Blanc de Blancs 2008 magnum accompanied by\ndelicious appetizers and raw scallops with turnip tops and Annurca apples.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Even the champagnes served throughout the dinner were\nblindfolded.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
With each course, two champagnes were served, except\nfor the last course which was accompanied by a magnum bottle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The first two champagnes were the Perrier Jouet Belle\nEpoque Blanc de blancs 2012 and the Jacques Lassaigne Blanc de Blancs 2012 and\nwere accompanied by the aubergine glazed with miso, chocolate, raspberries and\nchilli pepper. The pomegranate risotto with roe deer and salted pistachio was\ntaken by the hand of the champagnes De Sousa Blanc de Blancs Les Pierres Vandos\nLe Mesnil 2012 and Jacquesson Dizy Corne Bautray 2012.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This was followed by “cavatelli cacio e pepe with\nred prawns and baby squid”, paired with Billecart Louis Salmon 2008 and\nAmour de Deutz 2008.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
What about the “Morone with coals with scorzanera\nand vanilla” which went perfectly with the Taitinger Comtes 2008 and with\nthe De Saint Gall Orpale 2008.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs 2012 magnum has\nbeen associated with the “suckling pig, almonds and radicchietti\nall’aglione”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The Citron dessert, served last, was enjoyed with the\nchampagnes present in the glasses of the evening.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It goes without saying that we were all happy to be\ntogether in such a beautiful setting, pampered by a beautiful sommelier and\nthree waiters who never lost sight of us.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Here are my tasting notes of the\nchampagnes of the evening, with the scores resulting from the average of Les\nenfants du champagne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
J De Telmont Blanc del Blancs, vintage 2008<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n (magnum format)<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bright golden yellow with numerous fine bubbles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Nose with intense aromas of vanilla, flint, Coccoina\nglue (coconut and almond milk) of fresh blond leather, slight hints of honey,\nrennet apple to end with whiffs of plaster.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The bubbles are fine and caressing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Rich minerality in a medium body.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Good gustatory balance with the freshness and minerality that dominate the alcohol mass. Its intense gustatory persistence is long. (91\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n PERRIER JOUET<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n BELLE EPOQUE BLANC DE BLANCS, vintage\n2012<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Light straw yellow with hints of gold, shiny.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n At the olfactory encounter, pleasant intense notes of\namber and Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk) are perceived, followed by\nnotes of blond leather, peanut butter, episperm (sweet from the second skin of\nboiled brown), floral, white pepper and LPG gas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate the bubbles are fine, the body is medium and the wine has a pleasant sapidity. Perfect gustatory balance between alcohol and freshness, the latter completely dominates the alcohol mass. Long is its gustatory persistence. (91\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n JACQUES LASSAIGNE<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Blanc de Blancs, vintage 2012<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Intense golden yellow with fine and quite numerous\nbubbles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Smell characterized by aromas of ripe banana, bois\u00e9,\nblond leather, cocoa butter, pastry to finish with hints of dried chestnut.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate the bubbles are fine, the body is medium. Slightly bois\u00e9 flavour, the wood releases tannins which dry the upper gum a little. Its intense aromatic persistence is long. (90\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DE SOUSA Blanc de Blancs <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n LES PIERRES VAUDONS LE MESNIL, vintage\n2012<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Golden yellow coat, the bubbles are quite fine and\nquite numerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Olfactory mix made of woody scents, of ripe banana and\ndried banana, dried chestnut and fresh blond leather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The bubbles are fine, the body is medium and the wine\nas well as having a good taste balance between alcohol and freshness has a\npleasant sapidity. Bois\u00e9 flavour, the latter releases tannins which dry the\nupper gum a little.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Long is its intended aromatic persistence. (92\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n JACQUESSON – DIZY CORNE BAUTRAY, vintage\n2012<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Golden yellow color, fine and quite numerous bubbles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Aromas of blond leather, intense bois\u00e9, ripe banana,\nrennet apple and Williams pear rise from the glass, reminiscent of pear grappa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The body is medium, a little elusive and the bubbles\nare fine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Wine with good gustatory balance thanks to the\nfreshness that dominates the alcohol and gives the wine a good gustatory\npersistence, when the body becomes thinner it is the freshness that carries on\nthe persistence. Lemon citrus finish.(91\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n BILLECART LOUIS SALMON, vintage\n2008<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Shiny golden yellow robe. The bubbles are fine and\nquite numerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The olfactory panorama is varied and pleasant with\naromas of citrus, floral, juniper berry, dry chestnut, fresh blond leather,\nCoccoina glue (coconut and almond milk), mint, episperm (sweet second skin of\nboiled brown) to finish with kaiser pear puffs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate it is pleasant with fine bubbles, a fine\nbody and an excellent gustatory balance between alcohol and freshness thanks\nalso to the generous flavor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Citrus flavors of lemon and yellowish rennet apple,\nnot too ripe which remain throughout its gustatory persistence. <\/strong>(94\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DEUTZ<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n AMOUR DE DEUTZ, vintage 2008<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n It shines golden yellow and the bubbles are fine and\nnumerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The nose is captivating with an intense mineral note\nof freshly made popcorn, followed by light peanut butter, almond hard shell,\nLPG gas, ending with an olfactory trail of Coccoina glue (coconut and almond\nmilk).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Pleasant tasting with popcorn flavor (mineral). The\nbody is medium and the wine has a pleasant freshness which, with the help of\nthe minerality, dominates the alcoholic mass without second thoughts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Its gustatory persistence is long with a Champagne mineral finish that hardly disappoints. (95\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n TAITTINGER COMTES, vintage 2008<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Visually it is bright yellow gold while the bubbles\nare very fine and quite numerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the olfactory examination the flint and popcorn\nstand out followed by citrus fruits, vanilla, LPG gas and the hard almond\nshell.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate the body is medium, slightly elusive and\nthe bubbles are fine. Flavor of yellow grapefruit. Well balanced wine with the\nfreshness highlighted on the alcoholic mass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Its gustatory persistence is long because the\nfreshness and the acidity complete the structure which then loses a bit of\nvigor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Lemon and yellow grapefruit finish. (95\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DE SAINT GALL<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n ORPALE, vintage 2008<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n It shines golden yellow. The bubbles are fine and\nquite numerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n An intense scent of vanilla stands out on the nose\nfollowed by episperm (sweet from the second skin of the boiled brown), sweet\nfrom the outside of the candy, dried chestnut, flint, popcorn, LPG gas, blond\nleather, rosemary to finish with whispers of glue Coccoina (coconut and almond\nmilk)<\/p>\n\n\n\n The first impact on the taste is a sensation of\nsweetness followed by a marked citrus note of lemon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The bubbles are fine and the body is medium. Savory\nand mineral wine with a strong acid note that completely covers the alcohol\nmass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Its gustatory persistence is long with an intense lemon finish that gives a little astringency to the upper gum. (94\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n BRUNO PAILLARD<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Blanc de Blancs, vintage 2012<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n (magnum format)<\/p>\n\n\n\n Shiny golden yellow\ndress. The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Perfumes of peanut\nbutter, cocoa butter, blond leather to end with hints of Marseille soap.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate the bubble is a little evident. The body is medium sufficient which tends to taper a little. Well balanced wine with the freshness that dominates the alcohol mass. Its gustatory persistence is long with flavors of cocoa butter, blond leather and lemon. (92\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n SUMMARY<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n The evening was\nimpeccable, thanks to Vito and his talented young team.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" About a year ago Vito Mollica announced that he was leaving the Four Seasons in Florence to go to Dubai to consult some restaurants, but that he would then return to Florence and so, to the joy of all of us, this happened. The Mine & Yours Group has purchased the property of Palazzo Portinari, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":12604,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"gallery","meta":{"tdm_status":"","tdm_grid_status":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[1],"tags":[563,137],"class_list":["post-12614","post","type-post","status-publish","format-gallery","has-post-thumbnail","category-uncategorized","tag-chic-nonna","tag-paolo-baracchino","post_format-post-format-gallery"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/IMG-20221123-WA0045.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/pav13q-3hs","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12614","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=12614"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12614\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":12618,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12614\/revisions\/12618"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/12604"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=12614"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=12614"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=12614"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}\n DEUTZ\n AMOUR DE DEUTZ\n <\/td> \n 2008\n <\/td> \n 95\/100\n <\/td><\/tr> \n TAITTINGER\n COMTES\n <\/td> \n 2008\n <\/td> \n 95\/100\n <\/td><\/tr> \n DE\n SAINT GALL ORPALE\n <\/td> \n 2008\n <\/td> \n 94\/100\n <\/td><\/tr> \n BILLECART\n LOUIS SALMON \n <\/td> \n 2008\n <\/td> \n 94\/100\n \n <\/td><\/tr> \n DE\n SOUSA LES PIERRES VAUDONS LE MESNIL \n <\/td> \n 2012\n <\/td> \n 92\/100\n <\/td><\/tr> \n BRUNO\n PAILLARD BdB\n <\/td> \n 2012\n <\/td> \n 92\/100\n <\/td><\/tr> \n J DE\n TELMONT BdB\n <\/td> \n 2008\n <\/td> \n 91\/100\n <\/td><\/tr> \n PERRIER\n JOUET BELLE EPOQUE BdB \n <\/td> \n 2012\n <\/td> \n 91\/100\n <\/td><\/tr> \n JACQUESSON\n DIZY CORNE BAUTRAY\n <\/td> \n 2012\n <\/td> \n 91\/100\n <\/td><\/tr> \n JACQUESSON\n LASSAIGNE \n <\/td> \n 2012\n <\/td> \n 90\/100\n <\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>\n\n\n\n