<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It is always an immense joy to go to dinner at the\nEnoteca Pinchiorri in Florence. The environment, the refinement, the class of\nthe dining room staff, the very particular food and what can we say about the\nwines?<\/p>\n\n\n\n
I am going to write about two particular evenings, the\nfirst with my family and the second with two friends, the latter on the evening\ndedicated to Burgundy and in particular to the Morey Saint Denis appellation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The first was the family one which was also attended\nby my nephew Duccio, loved by my son Andrea, and the latest arrival, my niece\nOlivia who was just one month old. Giorgio pampered us and let us be pampered\nby his young and talented staff. We were in a room just for us and initially we\nwere served extra brut Irroy Champagne which was accompanied by “knife-cut\nold cow meat, warm zabaglione, almond cream and white truffle”. The\n“almond soup, Celline olives, Jerusalem artichoke with bergamot and\nlobster with juniper” was paired with a wine dressed in burgundy so as not\nto let us see the label. Davide D’Alterio, sommelier of the Enoteca, served us\nthis wine which went well with the dish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
I didn’t have the slightest doubt that it was a\nsauvignon blanc, I thought it was from the Loire but when I removed the dress\nit turned out to be the Sauvignon blanc from the American company Screaming\nEagle, 2017 vintage. Very savory and mineral wine, very rare bottle, difficult\nto find and never drank by me.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This was a pleasant surprise from Giorgio Pinchiorri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The dinner then continued with the “Girotondo of\nagnolotti, stuffed with stewed Muscovy duck, 40 month old Parmigiano Reggiano\ncream, toasted walnut oil and chicory” accompanied, very well, by a\nBurgundy pinot noir, exactly the Morey St. Denis Clos de la Bussi\u00e9re 2019 by\nDomaine G. Roumier. Anyone who says that only white wine goes with fish is\nwrong. The following dish was: “Slice of turbot cooked in salt and herb\npaste, reduced sauce of roasted calamari and Treviso radicchio with sesame\noil”, which was paired with a fantastic Nebbiolo, the 2018 Barolo by\nBartolo Mascarello with a splendid violet on the nose, and a silky tannin on\nthe palate. The combination with “Vanilla souffl\u00e9 with Panforte ice\ncream” was original and pleasant, with which we were served the 2018\nMoscato passito di Saracena from Cantine Viola. A complex and pleasant wine\nboth on the nose and on the taste which combined perfectly with the dish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It was a very pleasant evening for everything:\nambience, dishes, wines and service worthy of a splendid restaurant with three\nMichelin stars. From personal experience I assure you that it is not obvious\nthat a restaurant with three Michelin stars is like this.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
My tasting notes of the evening’s wines follow with a\npremise regarding the tannins of red wine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
As regards the width of the tannin, it is important\nthat you make the following clarifications, so that it can be understood. I\nfeel the tannin of the wine on the upper gum. The total width of the tannin is\n6\/6, i.e. the entire width of the upper gum. Obviously, if the tannin is less\nwide, it could be for example 5\/6 and so on. The width of the tannin is\nimportant when the quality of the same is of a good or high level. If the\ntannin is wider, the wine is more worthy of attention, but the tannin, as I\nspecified, must in any case be of good quality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Let’s now go on to describe the wines tasted.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
MAISON TAITTINGER<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n IRROY Extra Brut S.A<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n (Grapes: 70% Pinot Noir e Pinot Meunier e 30%\nChardonnay)<\/p>\n\n\n\n Shiny golden yellow with quite fine and quite numerous\nbubbles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n From the glass rise sweet aromas of the outside of the\nsugared almond, flint, bread crust, graphite, ending with memories of Coccoina\nglue (coconut and almond milk)<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate it has delicate bubbles, a medium body\nand is savory, mineral, with rich freshness which makes it perfectly balanced.\nCitrus flavors of yellow grapefruit. Its taste persistence is long. (91\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n SCREAMING EAGLE<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Sauvignon blanc, vintage 2017<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Straw yellow color.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the nose the wine presents\naromas of rue leaf, tomato leaf, peach leaf and with an intense saltiness.\nFollowed by mentholated and light woody notes (new wood) to conclude with notes\nof white flowers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate it has a medium body\nand is salty and mineral. Well balanced wine with minerality, flavor and\nfreshness that completely dominate the alcoholic mass. Its intense aromatic\npersistence is long.<\/p>\n\n\n\n With an empty glass you can smell\nthe cotton candy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A very young wine characterized by flavor both on the nose and on the palate, and by a nose that will have to open up further. (94\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DOMAINE G. ROUMIER<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n MOREY SAINT DENIS<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 1\u00b0 Cru Clos de la Bussi\u00e9re, vintage\n2019<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Ruby red dress<\/p>\n\n\n\n Varied and captivating nose\ncomposed of bois\u00e9 aromas that remind me of “after eight” chocolate,\nintense chocolate and mint, Vicks Vaporub (camphor and cedar wood), cherry,\nraspberry, black pepper and nutmeg.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Fine and elegant tasting. The\nwine has a medium body and is perfectly balanced between alcohol and freshness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The tannins are sweet, quite\nbroad (5\/6), initially silky and then burn the upper gum a little.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The wood that is perceived will\ndisappear when the wine remains in the bottle. Its flavor persistence is long\nwith a finish of raspberry, cherry and light bois\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Very young! (95\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n BAROLO D.O.C.G. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n BARTOLO MASCARELLO, vintage 2018<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Transparent ruby red color with\nvery slight garnet reflections.<\/p>\n\n\n\n It offers pleasant aromas of\ntomato preserve, light juniper berry, violet, light bois\u00e9, sweet aromas\nreminiscent of episperm (it is the skin that wraps the boiled chestnut) to end\nwith whispers of rhubarb root.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The wine has a medium body and is\nperfectly balanced, in fact the tannins and freshness completely envelop the\nalcoholic mass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The tannins are sweet, broad (6\/6), initially silky and then slightly drying the upper gum. Its intense aromatic persistence is long. (97\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n CANTINE VIOLA<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n MOSCATO PASSITO DI SARACENA,\nvintage 2018<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n (Grapes: 50% Guarnaccia e\n50% Malvasia)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Intense amber yellow color.<\/p>\n\n\n\n It unfolds aromas of dried dates,\ndried plums, raisins, candied orange, dried apricot, acacia honey, medicinal herbs,\nintense caramel, ripe persimmon, balsamic, finishing with pinches of black\npepper.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate it shows an intense\nbody and is well balanced, in fact the alcoholic mass is silenced by the\nfreshness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Flavors of dried dates and dried\napricots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Its taste persistence is long\nwith a bitter finish that reminds me of chestnut honey followed by saffron.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Pleasant wine, quite sweet, not\ncloying! (95\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Wonderful evening thanks to Giorgio Pinchiorri and all\nhis staff.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Subsequently I returned to the Enoteca Pinchiorri with\ntwo friends, Franco Barducci and Luca Caporali, for the evening dedicated to\nthe Morey Saint Denis appellation which is found in France, in Burgundy, in the\nC\u00f4te de Nuits. The vineyards extend for 150 hectares and the soil is composed\nof Jurassic limestone, pebbles and Ostrea Acuminata fossils. The Village wines\nare 64 hectares, the Premier Cru wines are 44 hectares while the Grand Cru\nwines are 40 hectares.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Among the Grand Crus there are four that occupy a\nthird of the entire vineyard area. Going down from north to south on the Route\ndes Grand Crus, the first you come across is Clos de la Roche, whose wines are\nrichly mineral and tasty, thanks to its soils which are brown and calcareous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The second is Clos Saint Denis whose wines are\nharmonious and elegant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The third and fourth are the monopole Clos de Lambrays\nand the Clos de Tart which are adjacent to the Grand Cru Chambertin. The wines\nof Morey Saint Denis are as powerful and princely as the wines of Gevrey and\nthe sublime delicacy of the wines of Chambolle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This evening is one of those called “Pinchiorri\nExperience”. These are evenings in which a three-course menu is offered,\neach paired with a wine from a certain area. The price is fixed. They are\nbeautiful experiences that enrich you in every respect.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The menu included mis en bouche paired with De Sousa\nchampagne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The first course was: “Zolfini beans in stockfish\nbroth, grilled marrow cream and scampi in giardiniera” together with which\nwe were served the Morey Saint Denis Clos Salon 2018 from Domaine Fourrier and\noff the menu the Chambolle Musigny, La Combe d’Orveau from Domaine Anne Gros.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I certainly preferred the first wine to the second.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Following with “The minestra between Liguria and\nTuscany” we appreciated the Morey Saint Denis 2019 from Domaine G. Roumier\nwith a very pleasant raspberry on the nose.<\/p>\n\n\n\n With the “Piccione, almost fried, with artichokes\nin Colonnata lard and clementines in mustard” the Morey Saint Denis Les\nChaffots 2019 from Domaine Hubert Lignier was poured into our glass, with an\nintense violet on the nose and a pleasant raspberry on the palate .<\/p>\n\n\n\n With dessert we were surprised to be poured a 1979\nVernaccia di Oristano. Fantastic wine both on the nose and on the palate with a\nmyriad of aromas and sensations including zabaglione.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The evening then ended with a\nspirit and Partagas cigar no. 4, human size.<\/p>\n\n\n\n They were two beautiful evenings\nfull of emotions and pleasures that the Enoteca Pinchiorri with its team\noffered us.<\/p>\n\n\n\n My tasting notes for the\nevening’s wines follow.<\/p>\n\n\n\n MAISON DE SOUSA<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n BLANC DE BLANCS G.C. R\u00e8serve SA<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Shiny golden yellow color with\nquite numerous bubbles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A range of sensations made of\naromas of flint, light of beer, cotton candy and intense of graphite.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Upon entry into the mouth you perceive a medium body and the wine is savory, mineral and the bubbles are fine. Barley candy flavor. Balanced wine between alcohol and freshness even if the latter is a little measured. Its flavor persistence is long but not very long with a marked finish of chestnut honey. (92\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DOMAINE FOURRIER<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n MOREY ST. DENIS CLOS SOLON<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Vieille Vigne, vintage 2018<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n This Clos extends for 5.58\nhectares. The soils are clayey and spongy, exposed to the south and therefore\nwith sun and heat which prevent problems of attack by mold and fungi. All this\nensures that the wines are as balanced as possible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ruby red.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The olfactory casket opens to\naromas of tannery leather at the end of the process, starch spray for ironing\n(starch), licorice, raspberry, cherry, mint, raspberry hard candy, fir, ice\ncream cone wafers, blond leather, caper notes and anchovies.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When tasted, the body is medium\nsufficient.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The wine is well balanced with\nfreshness dominating the alcoholic mass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5\/6), initially velvety and then dry the upper gum a little. Its taste persistence is long with a slightly bitter finish.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 (93\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DOMAINE ANNE GROS<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Chambolle Musigny<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n La Combe D’Orveau, vintage\n2020<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Ruby red dress with purple border.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Olfactory mix made of scents of fir, light trichlorethylene,\nraspberry, blond leather, intense cherry, tomato preserves to finish with light\nhints of eggnog.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The body is medium sufficient plus. Initially it has a pleasant freshness which is subsequently attacked by the alcoholic mass which calls into question its gustatory balance. The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5\/6–), initially velvety and then slightly burn the upper gum. Its taste persistence is long. (89\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DOMAINE G. Roumier<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n MOREY ST. DENIS <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 1\u00b0 Clos de la Bussi\u00e9r\u00e9, vintage 2019<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n (Seul proprietaire since 2019)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Since 1950 the Clos de la\nBussi\u00e9re has been owned by the usual Domaine and therefore is a Monopole.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The vineyard is surrounded by a\nwall and that is why it is called Clos. Inside the Clos there is the home of\nthe Roumier family.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ruby red dress.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The nose highlights aromas of\ntoffee, raspberry, mint, eucalyptus, tomato preserves and the unmistakable\nlicorice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Wine with a delicate but present\nmedium body.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The freshness ensures that the\nalcoholic mass does not disturb the gustatory balance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5\/6–) and silky. Its intense aromatic persistence is long with a slightly bitter finish. (93\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DOMAINE HUBERT LIGNIER<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n MOREY ST. <\/strong>DENIS Les Chaffats, vintage 2019<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n The vineyards are at an altitude ranging from 300 to\n330 meters and the wine comes from the upper part of the vineyard which was\nplanted in 1968. The lower part of the vineyard was included in the Grand Cru\n“Clos Saint Denis”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n From the glass rise aromas of popcorn (mineral note\nfor me), smoked (firewood ember), Marseille soap, intense violet, raspberry,\ncherry, worked leather ending with herbaceous whispers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Pleasant sip, the body is medium and the wine is well\nbalanced with freshness and tannins which completely silence the alcoholic\nmass. The tannins are sweet, broad (6\/6–) and silky. Flavor of smoke,\nraspberry and cherry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Its flavor persistence is long with a rhubarb candy finish. (94\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n AZIENDA CONTINI<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Vernaccia Oristano Antico Gregori, vintage\n1979<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Amber yellow robe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The olfactory encounter reveals aromas of chamomile,\nmedicinal herbs, almond shell, dried apricot, savory flavors and zabaglione\n(also reminiscent of Marsala wine).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Upon tasting, one is pleasantly struck by the flavors\nof hairy peach, salt, zabaglione and dried lime.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The wine has a medium body and a strong acidity that\nturns savory and zabaglione.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The wine, despite its strong acidity and good taste balance, leaves a caloric sensation on the tongue, even if to a moderate extent. Its taste persistence is long with a zabaglione finish. \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 (95\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n These “Pinchiorri\nExperience” evenings were a great success because they brought together\nmany people who had never been to the Enoteca Pinchiorri and in these themed\nevenings customers were able to appreciate, excellent cuisine and wines not\neasy to find in common restaurants.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" It is always an immense joy to go to dinner at the Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence. The environment, the refinement, the class of the dining room staff, the very particular food and what can we say about the wines? I am going to write about two particular evenings, the first with my family and the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":13139,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"gallery","meta":{"tdm_status":"","tdm_grid_status":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[1],"tags":[623,624,585,625,137],"class_list":["post-13784","post","type-post","status-publish","format-gallery","has-post-thumbnail","category-uncategorized","tag-barolo","tag-cantine-viola","tag-la-mitica-enoteca-pinchiorri","tag-maison-taittinger-irroy","tag-paolo-baracchino","post_format-post-format-gallery"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/IMG-20230727-WA0056.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/pav13q-3Ak","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13784","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=13784"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13784\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":13788,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13784\/revisions\/13788"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/13139"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=13784"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=13784"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=13784"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}