<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For the first time, Les Enfants du Champagne abandoned the starred\nrestaurants for this event and preferred an evening “pied dans l’eau”\nat the “Il Rogiolo” restaurant, owned by Paolo and Beatrice\nBeltramini, a typically Livorno couple for their hospitality, friendliness and\nspontaneity. The restaurant is located on the Livorno coast, in Quercianella.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The restaurant staff is young, motivated, smiling and friendly. The\nproperty has a small beach with crystal clear sea water. The restaurant also\nhas a large terrace which obviously overlooks the sea. But the gem is that\nthere is also a small terrace, facing the sea, which is for the exclusive use\nof Beatrice, who allowed us to use it for our dinner dedicated to the top of\nthe range Dom Perignon champagne.Paolo ci ha organizzato una serata perfetta\ncon un sommelier professionista che ci ha coccolati per tutta la sera.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
At the beginning, with some appetizers, we drank a magnum of Perrier\nJouet blanc de blancs, non-vintage, in the magnum version, which was amazing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Present at the evening were Leo Damiani, Vincenzo Tardini (substitute\nchild), Valerio Mearini, Orazio Vagnozzi and myself. Unfortunately, Roberto\nSchneuwly and Stefano Azzolari were absent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
We were all happy to be together with our friend Paolo Beltramini who,\ntogether with Beatrice, despite the fact that their restaurant was full of\nguests, kept us company during our fish-based tasting dinner. For each\nchampagne we were served a different course of food that perfectly matched the\nnectar we were drinking. Some of us slept at the Grand Hotel Palazzo in\nLivorno, in front of the famous “Terrazza Mascagni”, on Viale Italia,\nthe pride of the Livorno people. The next day Valerio, Orazio and I returned to\nPaolo and Beatrice to take a bath and have lunch with some champagne brought by\nValerio and me. While I was sunbathing on a lounger, after having taken a\nrefreshing bath, I heard someone call me, I turned around and to my great\nsurprise I saw two dear friends, Susanna and Sergio Tofani, who were curious\nabout what I had told them about the establishment seaside resort – restaurant\n“Il Rogiolo” they had come there to spend a relaxing day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
We had an aperitif together and shared the champagnes we had brought\nduring lunch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
But let’s go back to the\nevening before, to this evening dedicated to “Dom Perignon”. The\nservice of the champagnes was blindfolded, that is, we did not know the order\nof service and the bottles were wrapped in aluminum foil, with the exception of\nthe magnum of Perrier Jouet blanc de Blancs, which was not the subject of the\ngroup’s evaluation, but only mine<\/p>\n\n\n\n
PERRIER JOUET<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Blanc de Blanc, non-vintage\nin magnum format.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Light golden yellow color with numerous fine bubbles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Numerous aromas rise from the glass, among which the following stand\nout: lemon, Marseille soap, flint, white pepper, natural tea, iodine, salted\ngrilled almond, sea water (white internal part of the watermelon peel and white\nmelon), hard lemon candy, finishing with puffs of chalk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate it has fine bubbles, and is savory, mineral with a flavor\nof lemon and lemon zest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The body is medium and the wine is well balanced with strong acidity\nwhich, together with the minerality, completely dominates the alcoholic mass.\nIts persistence is long with a finish of acacia honey and the white part of the\ninternal peel of the yellow grapefruit. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Amazing bottle! <\/p>\n\n\n\n \n(93\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DOM PERIGNON<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n VINTAGE 2004 PLENITUDE 2\n<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n It shines golden yellow and has numerous fine bubbles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Rich and varied nose with aromas of lemon, fresh blond leather, lemon\ntea, peanut butter, almond shell, iodine, sweet from the outside of the dragee,\nflint, vanilla and star anise. The olfactory journey ends with hints of white\nflowers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate there is a medium body.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The bubbles are fine and quite delicate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Flavors of lemon, toasted wood and popcorn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Well balanced wine with the alcoholic mass silenced by freshness and acidity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Its taste persistence is long with a lemon and wood finish. <\/p>\n\n\n\n (93\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DOM PERIGNON<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n VINTAGE 2003 PLENITUDE 2\n<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Shiny golden yellow color with very fine and numerous bubbles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Olfactory mix made of intense aromas of vanilla followed by flint,\nalmond shell honey, sweets from the outside of the sugared almond, natural tea\nand white flowers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When tasted it reveals a medium body, fine bubbles and a good balance\nbetween alcohol and freshness. Its flavor persistence is long but not very long\nwith a slightly bitter finish. I remember that when the normal 2003 came out on\nthe market, I was quite disappointed by its lack of persistence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \n(92\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DOM PERIGNON<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n VINTAGE 2002 PLENITUDE 2\n<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Shiny straw-gold yellow shines through.<\/p>\n\n\n\n From the glass rise aromas of amber, peanut, vanilla, sweets from the\noutside of the dragee, blond leather, iodine, flint, lemon tea, sea water\n(white melon), ripe banana and a good taste balance,<\/p>\n\n\n\n in fact freshness and minerality dominate the alcoholic mass. Savory and\nmineral wine with long, intense aromatic persistence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Final with flavors of lemon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \n(94\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DOM PERIGNON<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n VINTAGE 1998<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Shiny golden yellow color with numerous fine bubbles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The olfactory treasure chest diffuses intense aromas of ripe banana\nfollowed by iodine, flint, white pepper, incense, cooked apples with cinnamon\nand cloves to finish with caresses of almond paste.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The body is medium and the bubbles are fine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Well balanced wine thanks also to the generous freshness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Cooked apple flavour. Its taste persistence is long.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The 1998 P2 has another gear, I remember giving it 100\/100.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I found this 98 very mature on the nose. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n (95\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DOM PERIGNON<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n OENOTH\u00c9QUE 1996<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Straw yellow with golden reflections, shiny,<\/p>\n\n\n\n Aromas of white melon, light bois\u00e9, champignon mushroom, vanilla, flint\nand lemon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the palate the bubbles are fine and the wine has evident acidity, has\na medium body and is savory and mineral.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Perfectly balanced wine with a light bois\u00e9 flavour, its intense aromatic\npersistence is long with an intense lemon and light woody finish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n (97\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DOM PERIGNON<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n VINTAGE\n1995<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Golden yellow color and very fine and numerous bubbles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the nose it has aromas of rose water, juniper berry, intense flint\nand lemon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Pleasant tasting with fine bubbles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Perfectly balanced wine with freshness and minerality that completely\ndominate the alcoholic mass. The body is medium.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Its taste persistence is long with an almond shell finish. (96\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n DOM PERIGNON<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n OENOTH\u00c9QUE VINTAGE 1990<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Golden yellow coat, almost slightly orange with fine and numerous\nbubbles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Rich and varied nose composed of aromas of ripe banana, fairly ripe\nrennet apple (it reminded me a bit of Calvados), florals, juniper berry,\nvanilla, rust, honey, rusty pear, finishing with whiffs of champignon mushroom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Pleasant tasting, the body is medium and the bubbles are fine. Well\nbalanced wine, between alcohol and freshness. Flavor of honey and ripe jujube.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Its intense aromatic persistence is long with a chestnut honey finish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n (95\/100)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n At the end of this pleasant tasting – dinner, Paolo appeared holding a\nsplendid bottle of Solaia 2015 to which, some time before, I had awarded a\nwell-deserved 100\/100.<\/p>\n\n\n\n We were all happy to have spent this exciting evening in the restaurant\ntogether in this beautiful setting. “Il Rogiolo”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n ***\n*** ***<\/p>\n\n\n\n Insights from Valerio Mearini on the different types\nof Dom Perignon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Passionate about wine, but above all loving and\ndrinking Champagne, I must admit that for me the most fascinating label of all\nis that of Dom Perignon, the classic, the first produced, the iconic one that\neveryone knows, that is, the green one, shield-shaped, with the central writing\nin italics \u201cChampagne Dom P\u00e9rignon Vintage\u201d with a frame of vine leaves and\ngrapes and at the top on the label,clearly visible, written in block capitals,\nis the name of the brand of the Maison that owns the wine, that is, \u201cMoet\nChandon \u00e0 Epernay- Fond\u00e9e en 1743\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The first vintage produced was in 1921, from Pinot\nNoir and Chardonnay grapes in equal parts, coming from the best vineyards, from\nthe premier and grand crus villages of the entire Champagne area, with six\nyears of refermentation on the yeasts. The year 1936 was that of its first\ncommercialization.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Today the production of Dom Perignon champagne is a\nvision faithful to the line, a harmony played on aesthetic and sensorial\nvalues: precision and intensity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Its blend is a perfect balance of white and black\ngrapes, percentages ranging from 45 and 55 percent of a single harvest, a\nMillesimato, a single-year cuv\u00e9e that matures on its lees for a minimum of 8\nyears.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The Maison Moet & Chandon, around the end of the\nlast millennium, decided to change the writing positioned at the top of the\nlabel to the wording: “Dom Pierre PERIGNON -Hautvillers Apptd-1668”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Homage from the property to the Monk Dom Pierre, a\nbold and far-sighted man who made his life a divine choice<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u201c Producing the best wine in the world \u201c.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Deeply inspired, his vision revolutionized the wine\nindustry, with standards that still remain at the heart of champagne production\ntoday. Dom Perignon’s legacy continues to inspire the vision of the Maison.<\/p>\n\n\n\n In fact, it was the 2000 and 2002 vintages that\ndebuted with this wording.<\/p>\n\n\n\n With the 2004 and 2006 vintages the Maison changes the\nwriting at the top again, if only slightly, always keeping the name of the monk\nclearly in evidence, namely \u201cDom Perignon Millesime’ “Altum Villare”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Even today all labels definitively report this wording<\/p>\n\n\n\n In the following years, a new champagne called\n“Dom Perignon Oenotheque” debuts on the market. The label is always\nin the shape of a shield, but is dark green in color with a crown of leaves and\none in gold.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This creation is the result of an experiment wanted by\nthe chef de cave Richard Geoffroy, a fundamental figure in the production of\nmodern DP, which gives rise to the birth of a wine produced only in exceptional\nyears with a period of time on the yeasts longer than the vintage one,\ninitially speaking of 12\/ 15 years of fermentation in the cellar, therefore a\nwine elevated without haste, until it reaches a vortex of superiority, fullness\nof tactile expressions. The first to come out was 1990, then 1992 and 1993,\nalso in a ros\u00e9 version.<\/p>\n\n\n\n In around 2012, a hat-trick of memorable Oenotheque\nvintages, 1959, 1961 and 1964, were released for a lucky few, with 30\/40 years\nof fermentation in the cellar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The real turning point in the qualitative history of\nDP wine and its legendary labels occurred a few years later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The property, confident in the success of Dom Perignon\nOEnotheque, puts on the market the famous vintages such as 1995 and 1996,\nsuperlative bottles, in fact the labels are different from the previous ones,\nblack with a silver crown, always with the writing Oenotheque, called in French\njargon by enthusiasts “deuxieme sortie”, second release. Then again\nvintages such as DP OEnotheque 69, 70, 71 and 85, produced in very limited\nquantities, rare to purchase.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I remember seeing one of these bottles in real life,\nbeautiful, Oenotheque 1970, with a dark black shield on a gold vine crown with\ngolden packaging.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The last vintage of Dom Perignon Oenotheque produced\nwas 1998, \u201c troisieme sortie \u201c<\/p>\n\n\n\n The term “Plenitude” is recent history, it\nis the confirmation of the quality of fullness, compactness and superiority of\na champagne wine that spends so much time in the bottle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dom Perignon P2, with a prolonged elevation that\nachieves increased expression. After 15\/18 years in the darkness of the cellar\nthe wine is even more expansive, its internal activity is authentic energy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The first vintage is the DP P2 1998, then the DP P2\n1995 with a light gray label on a black crown, it does not have the writing P2\non the label, but only on the neck of the bottle. The latest versions of Dom\nPerignon P2 are the 2002, 2003 and 2004 harvests, featuring a dark gray shield\non a black crown, with central gold writing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The P3 shield is of a bewitching beauty, a sculpture\nof metallic material a few millimeters thick, the entire label is gold in\ncolour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n His wine is so incredibly unique, after 30 years in\nthe cellar aimed at procreating gustatory richness, such that it can be enjoyed\nby a select few, a pleasure, an emotion whose cost is around \u20ac3000.00.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" For the first time, Les Enfants du Champagne abandoned the starred restaurants for this event and preferred an evening “pied dans l’eau” at the “Il Rogiolo” restaurant, owned by Paolo and Beatrice Beltramini, a typically Livorno couple for their hospitality, friendliness and spontaneity. The restaurant is located on the Livorno coast, in Quercianella. The restaurant […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":13648,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"gallery","meta":{"tdm_status":"","tdm_grid_status":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[1],"tags":[342,630,362,137,610],"class_list":["post-13794","post","type-post","status-publish","format-gallery","has-post-thumbnail","category-uncategorized","tag-dom-perignon","tag-il-rogiolo","tag-les-enfants-du-champagne","tag-paolo-baracchino","tag-quercianella","post_format-post-format-gallery"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/IMG-20230725-WA0058.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/pav13q-3Au","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13794","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=13794"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13794\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":13797,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13794\/revisions\/13797"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/13648"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=13794"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=13794"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.paolobaracchino.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=13794"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}