From Davittorio with the Les Enfants du Champagne
It is always a great joy to spend an evening of high-level bubbles and the tri-star cuisine of the restaurant da Davittorio in Brusaporto.
What about the cellar of the restaurant that has grown so much, even with wines that are hard to find?
In mid-October the Les Enfants du Champagne was found to make a vertical – horizontal of the champagnes of the Maison Jacquesson. Present at the evening were Jean Hervè Jacquesson Chiquet, owner of the Maison and Pietro Pellegrini, exclusive importer for Italy of the Maison champagnes. The group lacked Maurizio Tarquini, absent for work reasons, while they were present:
Stefano Azzolari, Leo Damiani, Roberto Schneuwly, Valerio Mearini, Orazio Vagnozzi, Marco Maffei and Paolo Baracchino.
Stefano Azzolari has organized the evening perfectly.
Some of us stayed there because the restaurant also has a small hotel, equipped with suites, part of the prestigious “Relais e Chateaux” association. It is pleasant to stay there to sleep both because the rooms are beautiful and comfortable but also because in the morning you are served a princely breakfast.
There are five tables for breakfast and the service staff has a chef and two waitresses who fulfill your every culinary wish.
Returning to the evening, Stefano Azzolari decided on the menu together with Chef Chicco Cerea, thinking of the champagnes that would be served to us.
The Maison Jacquesson is located in the Champagne region of Dizy. The current ownership of the Maison is by Jean – Hervé Chiquet who takes care of the vineyard and by his brother Laurent who takes care of the cellar.
The vineyards are about 36 hectares of which 26 are owned and 10 are rented.
The grounds of the Maison, all Premiers Crus and Grands Crus, are located in the Vallée de la Marne and in the Cotê des Blancs.
The annual production is around 350,000 bottles. The Chiquet brothers use only the must extracted from soft pressing while conferring the second pressing to other producers. For the first fermentation and malolactic fermentation, large 40-45 hectolitre oak barrels are used. Filtrations are not carried out because, thanks to the micro-oxygenation of the wood, the wines naturally stabilize. These are Champagnes in which, normally, new wood is tasted.
Returning to the evening, we were greeted in the cellar where we were served the Curvèe 738 champagne, in magnum format, paired with small samples of Mini MC alla Vittorio, Mini Hot Dogs, mini toast with mustard and other delicacies.
After this pleasant aperitif in the company of Francesco Cerea, Chicco’s brother, we were accompanied to a restaurant lounge dedicated to us for the evening.
The champagnes to be tasted and to drink would have been twelve and therefore the table had the necessary glasses for each guest.
I would like to point out that each bottle is different from the other and that the glasses can highlight the bubbles as well as can dampen them, depending on the type more or less right of the same.
Needless to say, I was excited because this happens to me when I have to taste the wines and I have to concentrate to be able to express my feelings.
The eight courses started with “The die is cast, Marshmallow with herbs” served with three types of champagne, vintage 2008.
Following: “Altamura crouton, Cantabrian anchovy, tuna sauce, hazelnut, foie gras chestnut”, accompanied by three 2005 champagnes.
The “amberjack carpaccio with carrot cream, grapefruit” was bathed by a rare 2003:
This is followed by the “Tuna Roastbeef, beetroot glazed tail with ricotta cream in sage” designed for pairing with the 2000 vintage.
The pleasant evening continued with the “risotto with strips of king crab creamed with pink pepper” combined with the 1998 Les Clos and dégorgement June 2018
In succession the “Ravioli del plin, roast sauce, parmesan cloud, truffle” served with 1996: Millesime D.T., degorgement June 2018.
Undeterred and appalled by the pleasure we were served: the “Pork Belly, Celery and Green Apple” paired with the Avize champagne vintage 1989, dégorgement June 2003.
At the end of this show of pleasure, both visual and gustatory, our mouth was sweetened with the “Pre dessert catwalk dessert” well combined with a 1988 vintage, dégorgement July 1998.
Needless to say, both the food and the bubbles were at high levels, in particular the perfect food-wine combination.
At the end of the evening we were all ecstatic even from the kitchen of Chicco Cerea and according to all the guests we had never eaten so well from them. It was certainly one of the most beautiful evenings of our group.
Before moving on to the tasting notes of the champagnes of the evening I would like to point out that the scores assigned are the sum of those given by each member of Les Enfants du Champagne.
The notes were written by me and therefore it could happen that there are apparent contradictions between the notes and the score given and this is due to the fact that the notes refer only to me, while the scores are of the group.
JACQUESSON CURVEE 738, S.A. in Magnum format
the vintage used is 2010. Dégorgement 2015.
(Grapes: 61% Chardonnay, 21% Pinot Meunier and 18% Pinot Noir)
Golden yellow, clear, shiny
The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous.
Olfactory mix made of aromas of pine resin, boisé, iodine, blond leather, ending with puffs of zabaione cream.
On the palate the bubbles are fine and fairly present. Sapid lips and lemon flavor. The body is sufficient and the wine is well balanced, with rich acidity that dominates the alcohol. Its gustative persistence is long, thanks to the freshness that leaves room for flavor. Lemon and boisé finish. A little bitterness of wood remains in the mouth.
JACQUESSON, Dizy Corne Bautray, vintage 2008
(Grapes: 100% Chardonnay)
Golden yellow color. The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous.
The nose releases aromas of rennet apple, starch from warm cloth, iodine and licorice.
On the palate the body is medium, sufficient and the presence of new wood is immediately perceived. Rich acidity that does not perceive, in the least, the alcoholic mass. The lips are sapid. Its gustative persistence is long with a slightly sour citrus finish.
Due to the tannins of the wood the upper gum dries slightly.
JACQUESSON, Avize, Champ Cain, vintage 2008
(Grapes: 100% Chardonnay)
Shiny golden yellow mantle. The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous.
The nose expresses aromas of ripened rennet apple, iodine, blond leather, capers, anchovy, brioche bread, to end with hints of coccoin glue (coconut milk and almond).
The taste is fine and elegant. The body is medium and the wine is well balanced, with acidity that dominates the alcohol.
Its taste persistence is long.
JACQUESSON, AY, VAUZELLE TERME, vintage 2008
(Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir)
It dresses bright golden yellow. The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous.
Nose with aromas of cut grass, boisé, iodine and slight references of zabaione cream.
The taste has a good structure, lemon and boisé flavor.
The wine is well balanced with acidity that dominates, without second thoughts, the alcoholic mass. The body is medium. Its taste persistence is long.
The wood tannin slightly dries the upper gum.
JACQUESSON, DIZY, CORNE BAUTRAY, vintage 2005
(Grapes: 100% Chardonnay)
Bright golden yellow color. The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous.
Intoxicating smoky scents (wood embers), sea water (white melon) and pine resin.
On the palate it tastes a little evident bubble. Wine with sufficient body, sapid, mineral and well balanced with freshness in evidence on the alcoholic mass.
Its gustative persistence is long thanks to the freshness that sustains it.
For me it is better on the nose than on the taste.
JACQUESSON AVIZE CHAMP CAIN, vintage 2005
(Grapes: 100% Chardonnay)
Golden yellow, shiny, with a few fairly fine bubbles.
Olfactory kit consisting of melon peel, notes of ripe fruit, light zabaione cream and rennet apple.
The body is medium enough. The wine is balanced thanks to its generous freshness. Its freshness is long but not very long. The structure goes a bit away but it is the freshness that allows it to have longer persistence.
JACQUESSON, AY VAUZELLE TERME, vintage 2005
(Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir)
It wears bright golden yellow with fine and not very numerous bubbles.
Immediately on the nose you can feel the presence of the boisé followed by mineral and iodine scents.
To the taste you can feel the presence of wood tannins that dry the upper gum a little. The lips are salty. Wine balanced with freshness in evidence on the alcoholic mass. The body is medium.
Its gustative persistence is long, with a lemon and boisé finish.
JACQUESSON DIZY CORNE BAUTRAY, 2003 vintage
dégorgement 11/2003 (Grapes: 100% Chardonnay)
Beautiful deep golden yellow with amber shade.
The bubbles are fine and not very numerous.
Varied nose made of boisé fragrances, cut grass, ripe yellow flowers, iodine, mineral, hydrolytic powder (it is what makes the water sparkling), light honey, to end with references to dry banana.
In the mouth the body is medium and the lips are sapid. Balanced wine with raised freshness. Its gustative persistence is long thanks to the freshness that replaces the body that is undressed.
JACQUESSON DIZY CORNE BAUTRAY, vintage 2000
dégorgement 06/2018 (Grapes: 100% Chardonnay)
Ripe golden yellow with almost fine and numerous bubbles.
On the nose the first perfume I perceived was that of carbolic acid (it reminds me of saffron). This is followed by aromas of white peach, iodine, mineral, white pepper, boisé, to end with an intense juniper berry (it is the same as the smell of solid shoe wax).
On the palate the bubble is fine and the body is medium, to the limit of sufficiency.
Balanced wine with sour shoulder that dominates the alcoholic mass. The wood tannins dry the upper gum a little.
Its persistence is quite long thanks to the freshness that replaces the structure that goes away.
For me it is better on the nose than on taste.
JACQUESSON, LE CLOS, vintage 1998
dégorgement 06/2018, (Blend: 100% Pinot Meurnier)
Full golden yellow, with few bubbles.
On the nose, it expresses aromas of candied orange peel, lemon, juniper berry, rust, honey, dried apricot, dry white fig, and dry wild fennel, to end with the dry porcini mushroom.
On the palate the bubble is fine, delicate.
The body is at the limit of sufficiency and the wine is well balanced with the alcohol mass completely dominated by freshness. Its gustative persistence is long, even if it lacks some structure.
JACQUESSON, DT, MILLÉSIME, 1996
dégorgement 06/2018, (Grapes: 57% Pinot Noire 43% Chardonnay)
Amber gold yellow. The bubbles are quite fine and not very numerous.
On the nose you can smell aromas of honey, pastry and hard almond shell.
Immediately afterwards the smell of cork that hung in the glass becomes evident.
No evaluation – Cork.
JACQUESSON, AVIZE, vintage 1989
dégorgement 06/2003, (Grapes: 100% Chardonnay)
Upon visual examination it shows a beautiful shining golden yellow with very fine and quite numerous bubbles.
The intense fragrances of freshly made popcorn, flint, iodine and juniper berry explode in the glass.
These pleasant scents prevent me from perceiving other scents.
The taste is persuasive, the bubbles are fine, and you can taste flavors of flint, honey, popcorn and juniper berry.
Savory and mineral wine and well balanced thanks to the freshness and minerality that does not make the alcohol feel.
The body is medium and very long and its taste persistence with a savory finish, with flavors of flint, popcorn and juniper berry. Great champagne!
JACQUESSON, Millésime, 1988
(Grapes: 1/3 chardonnay, 1/3 Pinot Noir and 1/3 Pinot Meunier)
This vintage is no longer on the market.
Bright golden yellow color with fine bubbles and not so numerous.
Olfactory mix made of aromas of juniper berry, ripe pineapple, intense popcorn and flint.
On the gustatory examination it shows a sufficient medium body. Well balanced wine, with important acidity that completely covers the alcoholic mass. Its persistence is long with a juniper berry finish.
Surely for me 1989 is more important for everything compared to 1988.
After the evening, sitting in the garden outside the restaurant, after smoking a Moro 2015 Tuscan cigar and drinking a 1945 Bas Armagnac Laberdolive, we could go to sleep, waiting for the wonderful breakfast that would wait for us the next morning.
Professionalism, class, competence are an absolute rule by Davittorio.