Last September, I had the pleasure of being invited by Maria Caterina Dei, with my wife Sara, to the Dei winery in Montepulciano.
For three generations, the Dei family has been closely linked to the Montepulciano area and its resources.
The company’s property extends over 120 hectares, 60 of which are vineyards.
There are 5 vineyards unique for their characteristics: “Bossona” which is located 400 meters above sea level, where the company’s historic Cru is produced.
The soil is composed of a surface layer of sand and tuff and a subsoil of skeleton and fossils.
“The Beach” is a vineyard where the company’s second Cru, Madonna della Querce, is produced.
The vineyard is located 370 meters above sea level. The soil is of Pliocene origin, with abundant sand and clay.
La “ Ciarliana”The vineyard is 300 meters above sea level and has clay and limestone soils.
“Cervognano” with vineyards at 250 meters above sea level and has a predominantly tuffaceous soil with the presence of clay.
“Martian”” has vineyards at 250 meters above sea level and the soil is mainly composed of fresh and medium-textured sandstone.
The beautiful, modern winery is entirely made of travertine and is surrounded by vineyards.
The company produces the following wines: Rosso di Montepulciano, Nobile di Montepulciano, Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Bossona, Sancta Catharina IGT, Nobile di Montepulciano Madonna della Querce Rosa, Tuscan rosé, Martiena Tuscan white, and Vin Santo di Montepulciano. They also produce grappa and extra virgin olive oil.
On the day of the invitation, Caterina Dei was there to welcome us, always smiling and cheerful, as always.
Before dinner, a vertical tasting of Nobile di Montepulciano was planned, led by Daniele Cernilli. This was followed by a piano concert in the cellar by the talented Danilo Rea, Mina’s pianist for many years, who didn’t need to read sheet music. Dinner was then served in the garden facing the cellar’s windows.
The tasting was very interesting. The wine that impressed me most was the 2018 Madonna della Querce Nobile di Montepulciano.
Afterwards, we went to the cellar and sat down to enjoy a concert by Maestro Danilo Rea, a friend of Massimiliano Pani, Mina’s son, who was also present. Immediately after an aperitif featuring Gaston Chiquet champagne, a delicious dinner was served.
Caterina Dei, for those who don’t know, is a wonderful singer, and during dinner she treated us to some lovely songs played by her band. It was a wonderful party, nothing was missing, and I can still remember all the wonderful moments of it.
Before proceeding with my tasting notes, it’s important to clarify the following points regarding tannins, so they can be understood. I taste the tannin in wine on the upper gum. The total width of the tannin is 6/6, that is, the entire width of the upper gum. Obviously, if the tannin is less broad, it could be, for example, 5/6, and so on. The width of the tannin is important when its quality is good or high. The broader the tannin, the more worthy of attention the wine is, but the tannin, as I’ve specified, must, in any case, be of good quality.
Let’s now move on to describing the wines we tasted.
ESTATE OF THE
NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO Riserva D.O.C.G., 1986 vintage
(Blend: 100% Sangiovese)
On visual examination it shows a brick color with an orange edge.
From the glass rise aromas of quite intense mint, eucalyptus, jute, black pepper, nutmeg, dried plum, “After Eight” chocolate (intense mint and bitter chocolate), paraffin oil, light notes of pea hulls, tar, light notes of rice starch, finishing with hints of blackberry jam.
On the palate, it has a sharp acidity, a medium-plus body, a flavor of brandied cherries, and is savory. The alcohol and freshness balance are balanced.
The tannins are sweet, not very broad (4/6), initially velvety and then burning the upper gum a little.
Its taste has a long persistence with, in the finish, sensations of black pepper on the tongue.
(88/100)
ESTATE OF THE
NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO Riserva D.O.C.G., 1994 vintage
(Blend: 100% Sangiovese)
Brick red color.
Olfactory mix of light aromas of rust, mint, eucalyptus, pea skin, light notes of dried plum, green pepper, finishing with sensations of ripe blackberry and blackberry jam.
Fruity palate, more than 1986. Savory and well-balanced wine with freshness that envelops the alcoholic mass.
Green pepper flavor. The body is medium and the tannins are sweet, velvety and not very broad (4/6).
Its taste has a long persistence.
(89/100)
ESTATE OF THE
NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO BOSSONA, vintage 1999
Reserve D.O.C.G.
(Blend: 100% Sangiovese)
Garnet red dress.
From the nose emerge aromas of flint, cherry, subtle hints of finely crafted tannery leather, boiled rice starch, and peeled tomatoes. On the palate, it has a medium body, cherry flavors, and is well-balanced with a freshness that dominates the alcohol.
The tannins are sweet, thick, quite broad (5/6–) and velvety.
Its taste has a long persistence with a cherry finish.
(91/100)
ESTATE OF THE
NOBILE OF MONTEPULCIANO BOSSONA
D.O.C.G. Reserve, vintage 2004
(Blend: 100% Sangiovese)
Intense garnet red coat.
Olfactory kaleidoscope of scents of varnish enamel, light notes of new wood, wine-soaked tow, ripe red cherry, mint, eucalyptus, ending with memories of the “After Eight” chocolate (intense mint and bitter chocolate).
The body is medium and the wine has a good balance between alcohol and freshness.
The tannins are sweet, thick, quite broad (5/6–), initially velvety and then burning the upper gum a little.
Its taste has a long persistence with a sensation of black pepper on the upper gum.
(91/100)
ESTATE OF THE
NOBILE OF MONTEPULCIANO BOSSONA
D.O.C.G. Reserve, vintage 2006
(Blend: 100% Sangiovese)
Intense garnet red robe.
Aroma characterized by aromas of red cherry, mint, eucalyptus, intense notes of black pepper and nutmeg, finishing with hints of dried plum.
On the palate, the wine stands out for its medium body and has an excellent balance between alcohol and freshness, while the tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6++), thick and velvety.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long with a black pepper finish.
(93/100)
ESTATE OF THE
NOBILE OF MONTEPULCIANO BOSSONA
D.O.C.G. Reserve, vintage 2010
(Blend: 100% Sangiovese)
Garnet red shines through from the glass.
Nose composed of aromas of red cherry, hazelnut, almond (cantuccini di Prato), mint, eucalyptus and a continuous presence, albeit light, of alcohol.
On the palate it is savoury and has a flavour of cherries in alcohol while the body is medium.
The balance between alcohol and freshness is a bit unstable while the tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6–) initially velvety and then drying out and burning the upper gums a bit.
(89/100)
ESTATE OF THE
NOBILE OF MONTEPULCIANO BOSSONA
D.O.C.G. Reserve, vintage 2013
(Blend: 100% Sangiovese)
Garnet red color.
The taste reveals aromas of chalk, plum, cherry, mint, eucalyptus, light notes of strawberry, black pepper, nutmeg, pea husks and wine-soaked tow.
The palate is characterized by a medium body. The freshness envelops the alcohol, making the wine well-balanced.
The tannins are sweet, thick, quite broad (5/6+) initially velvety and then burning and drying the upper gum slightly.
Its taste has a long persistence.
(93/100)
ESTATE OF THE
NOBILE OF MONTEPULCIANO BOSSONA
D.O.C.G. Reserve, vintage 2016
(Blend: 100% Sangiovese)
Garnet red color.
The olfactory debut reveals aromas of cherry, plum, mint, eucalyptus, hints of oil varnish, almond shell, almond, hints of black pepper and nutmeg.
On the palate it reveals a medium plus body and is juicy with fruit, in particular fresh cherry and plum.
The alcohol-fresh balance is perfectly balanced. The tannins are sweet, thick, and quite broad (5/6–), initially velvety, then drying out and burning the upper gums a bit.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
(93/100)
ESTATE OF THE
NOBILE OF MONTEPULCIANO BOSSONA
D.O.C.G. Reserve, vintage 2019
(Blend: 100% Sangiovese)
Ruby red color with garnet highlights.
From the glass it releases aromas of cherry, mint, eucalyptus, hints of melted butter, plum, pea skin, finishing with whispers of wild strawberry.
On the palate, it reveals a medium body and flavors of black pepper, plum, and cherry. It’s a savory wine with freshness that dominates the alcohol content.
The tannins are sweet, thick, quite broad (5/6–), initially velvety and then burning the upper gum a little.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
(92/100)
ESTATE OF THE
NOBILE OF MONTEPULCIANO BOSSONA
D.O.C.G. Reserve, vintage 2018
(Blend: 100% Sangiovese)
Expressive effectiveness with an intense ruby red colour.
A range of olfactory sensations with intense aromas of plum followed by smoky notes, peeled tomatoes and oregano.
Nice mouthfeel with rich acidity and medium body.
Despite the rich acidity, the taste balance between alcohol and freshness is a bit uneven.
The tannins are sweet, not very broad (4/6) initially and velvety and then slightly burn the upper gum.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
(89/100)
ESTATE OF THE
NOBLE OF MONTEPULCIANO
MADONNA DELLA QUERCE D.O.C.G., 2015 vintage
(Blend: 100% Sangiovese)
Garnet red color with a very fine orange edge.
Olfactory richness punctuated by aromas of chalk, black pepper, nutmeg, cherry, very light dried plum, pea skin, finishing with hints of finely processed tannery leather and boiled rice starch.
The mouth is delighted by the flavours of ripe, juicy plum and cherry.
The body is medium and the wine is savoury.
Rich and enveloping freshness that neutralizes the alcoholic mass.
The tannins are sweet, broad (6/6–), fine, initially silky and elegant and then dry and burn the upper gum a little.
Its taste persistence is long
(94/100)
ESTATE OF THE
NOBLE OF MONTEPULCIANO
CRU MADONNA DELLA QUERCE D.O.C.G, 2018 vintage
(Blend: 100% Sangiovese)
It shines through the ruby red glass.
The proposal is inspired by intense hazelnut aromas followed by mint, eucalyptus, perfectly ripe black marasca cherry, ink, finishing with smoky sensations.
On the palate it is a beautiful wine, pleasant with medium plus body and a perfect balance between alcohol and freshness.
The tannins are sweet, broad (6/6–), and silky. Its flavor persistence is long.
A wine that is drunk and drunk again with great pleasure.
(96/100)
ESTATE OF THE
SAINT CATHERINE, vintage 2018
Toscana IGT red
(Blends: Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot)
Expressive effectiveness with an intense ruby red-black colour.
Olfactory stage composed of aromas of intense ripe black marasca cherry accompanied by notes of hazelnut, mint and eucalyptus
The body is medium and the alcohol and freshness are in perfect balance.
The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6+) initially silky and then drying the upper gum a little.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
(91/100)
ESTATE OF THE
SAINT CATHERINE, year 1995
Toscana IGT red
(Blends: Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot)
Garnet red tint.
A range of olfactory sensations of plum, black olive, warm bread, hints of cassis and “After Eight” chocolate (bitter chocolate and intense mint).
On the palate it reveals flavours of blackberry, black cherry and has a medium plus body.
Freshness dominates the alcoholic mass.
the tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6–) and velvety.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
(91/100)
ESTATE OF THE
NOBLE OF MONTEPULCIAN D.O.C.G., vintage
(Blend: 70% Sangiovese and other complementary red grape varieties)
Ruby red dress.
The olfactory encounter reveals aromas of plum, red peach, mint, eucalyptus, peeled tomatoes and cherry.
On tasting it expresses a medium-sufficient body plus and a pleasant flavour.
The alcohol-freshness axis is in absolute harmony and balance.
The tannins are sweet, not very broad (4/6+), initially velvety and then drying the upper gum a little.
Its taste has a long persistence with a plum finish.
(90/100)
