It’s always a great pleasure to go to Merano in general and to the Merano WineFestival in particular. As always, I’m staying in Tirano at the Hotel Patrizia, a family-run hotel where the staff are always friendly and welcoming. This year, I went with my wife, Sara, who played tourist, while I was busy tasting the wines.
I noticed a remarkable turnout from both companies and the public. During the event, I met various Italian and international wine producers and did many tastings, noting the improvement of several wines I’d tasted in previous years. When I go to Merano, I’m also interested in giving masterclasses.
My friend Riccardo Gabriele, a journalist and PR agency owner, invited me to attend the masterclass at the Bozen winery, which he oversees as a PR. I was also interested in signing up for the masterclass at the Kurtatsch winery for a vertical tasting of Merlot, and for the Kettmeir winery . Regarding the Kettmeir winery , I was curious to learn more about the sparkling wines produced by this Caldaro winery. This Alto Adige winery has been around since 1919. In 1964, the company began producing sparkling wines. Sixty winemakers supply grapes grown on 55 hectares of vineyards. Only in 1992 did the winery switch to the classic method, with fermentation in the bottle. The grape varieties produced include Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Moscato Rosa, and Muller Turgau. The aroma I generally detected during the tasting was that of Cossack pears.
The masterclass at the Bozen winery (Bolzano), located in Bolzano, consisted of two vertical tastings: the first of Chardonnay and the second of Lagrein. 224 families contribute their grapes to produce these wines. Fifteen grape varieties are grown on different soils. A recurring aroma in the Chardonnay vertical tasting was pineapple. Regarding the Legrein vertical tasting , I was struck by the 2020 vintage with its pleasant aromas of black cherry and black olive. As for the wine masterclass at the Kurtatsch winery, located in Cortaccia in Alto Adige, which focused on a Merlot vertical tasting, I must say I was very impressed with the quality of the wine. The winery was founded in 1900, and the grapes are grown by 190 families on 190 hectares. The vineyards extend from a base altitude of 220 meters. above sea level to reach 900 m.
The winery’s flagship wines bear the Frienfeld name and are produced only in the best vintages and are made from the following grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.
The two wines are made from the best and oldest vines and are named after the winery’s founding site, which is in the center of town. I also liked the wines in the masterclass for their balanced flavors. I was struck, in the 2022 vintage of the Lagrein , by the aroma and flavor of black truffle.
My greatest curiosity came when I read about a masterclass at the Antonio Ferrari winery, Solaria Ionian , 1959 vintage.
I was intrigued by the history of this wine and of Antonio Ferrari, a wine producer and merchant born in 1913 in Galliate (Novara). He purchased wines and grapes and fell in love with the Primitivo grape grown in a vineyard overlooking the Ionian Sea on the property of Baron Bardoscia . Mr. Ferrari wanted to demonstrate that Primitivo was a long-lived grape, so he purchased the grapes and/or wines and brought them to his cellar. After forty years of growing this 1959, he released it for sale, and it was even purchased and featured on the menu by Alain Ducasse in Monte Carlo at his restaurant “Le Louis XV.”
In the early 2000s, Antonio passed away, and his cellar was left inoperative . By chance, his third son (80 years old) discovered a last tank of Solaria, marked as empty. In April 2025, 953 50cl bottles of Solaria 1959 were bottled. How could I not go to this tasting? It was a great pleasure for me to discover the aromas rising from the glass. My tasting notes speak for themselves. Like every year, the Merano WineFestival is a must-see for me, and as I leave Merano, I immediately think of next year. Before moving on to the tasting notes, the following must be noted.
Regarding the width of the tannin, it’s important to clarify the following points so it can be understood. I taste the tannin in the wine on the upper gum. The total width of the tannin is 6/6, that is, the entire width of the upper gum. Obviously, if the tannin is less wide, it could be, for example, 5/6, and so on. The width of the tannin is important when its quality is good or high. The wider the tannin, the more worthy of attention the wine is, but the tannin, as I’ve specified, must, in any case, be of good quality.
Let’s now move on to describing the wines we tasted.
KETTMEIR COMPANY
KETTMEIR COMPANY
Brut “ Athsis ”, 2022 vintage
Alto Adige DOC Classic Method
(Blend: 47% Pinot Blanc, 47% Chardonnay and 6% Pinot Noir)
Straw yellow color with gray reflections.
The bubbles are fine enough to be numerous enough.
On the nose it reveals aromas of brewer’s yeast, blond leather, boiled chestnuts with dried wild fennel and gamba pear.
On the palate it has fine bubbles and is savoury.
The body is medium. The wine has a rich freshness, but despite this, there is a slight oscillation with the alcohol content.
Good sweetness and long-lasting taste with a citrus lemon finish.
(89/100)
KETTMEIR COMPANY
Brut Rosè “ Athsis ”, vintage 2022
Alto Adige DOC Classic Method
(Blend: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay)
A light antique pink shines through from the glass.
The bubbles are fine and quite numerous.
Olfactory richness punctuated by aromas of pear thigh, sweets from the outside of the sugared almond, vanilla, brewer’s yeast, light raspberry notes, finishing with hints of marzipan paste.
On the palate the bubbles are quite fine.
The body is medium and the wine has a pear-like flavour and is savoury.
The freshness envelops the alcoholic mass making the wine well balanced.
The taste is long-lasting with a raspberry finish.
(87/100)
KETTMEIR COMPANY
Pas Dosè, 2020 vintage
Classic Method Alto Adige DOC
(Blend: 100% Chardonnay)
Pale straw yellow with gray and green highlights. The bubbles are quite fine and numerous.
Bouquet with an intense scent of vanilla followed by light notes of LPG gas, white hawthorn flowers and almond shell.
On the palate, the bubbles are fine and caressing. A savory wine with a slightly unripe fruit flavor (pear).
The wine is medium-bodied and well-balanced, with freshness dominating the alcohol. It has a long finish with a lemony aftertaste.
(89/100)
KETTMEIR COMPANY
Brut, 2018 vintage
Alto Adige DOC Classic Method
(Blend: Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir)
It has a straw yellow and gold colour with green reflections.
The bubbles are fine and quite numerous.
Olfactory prelude of peanut butter, pear thigh, hints of zabaglione, LPG gas to finish with caresses of raspberries.
On the palate, it reveals a medium body and fine bubbles. A savory wine with a lovely freshness that completely envelops the alcohol content.
On the upper gum, you can feel some slightly dry tannins, and I thought they might be the tannins from the stalks. Its flavor lingers for a long time.
(90/100)
KETTMEIR COMPANY
Extra Brut “1919” Riserva, 2018 vintage
Classic Method Alto Adige DOC
(Blend: 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Blanc)
It remains on the lees for 6 years.
Golden yellow dress with green and grey highlights.
The bubbles are fine and numerous.
An extroverted glass with aromas of vanilla, raspberry, light notes of zabaglione and LPG gas, finishing with whispers of straw.
Mouth characterized by a medium-sufficient plus body and fine bubbles.
A well-balanced wine thanks to its freshness and acidity that dominate the alcohol. Its flavor is long and persistent, with an intense lemon finish.
(90/100)
KETTMEIR COMPANY
Pas Dosè, 2018 vintage
Alto Adige DOC Classic Method
Magnum format
(Blend: 100% Chardonnay)
Straw yellow color with golden reflections.
The bubbles are fine and numerous.
The nose recalls aromas of white pepper, light LPG gas, white flowers, pear thigh and blond leather.
The mouth is caressed by fine bubbles and a lemon flavour.
The body is medium, the freshness and the alcoholic mass are in perfect harmony with each other.
Tannins, probably from the rasps, can be felt on the upper gum.
Its taste has a long persistence with a lemon finish.
(90/100)
KELLEREI BOZEN
KELLEREI BOZEN
Riserva Stegher , 2022 vintage
(Blend: 100% Chardonnay)
Straw yellow color.
woody and episperm aromas (it is the sweetness of the skin and boiled chestnut), candy cane impregnated with mint, pineapple, slightly ripe grapes, with an empty glass, smoky finish.
On the palate it has medium body and the balance between alcohol and freshness is a bit fluctuating.
Taste of slightly ripe grapes.
You can feel the tannin from the wood a little on the upper gum.
Its taste has a long persistence.
(88/100)
KELLEREI BOZEN
Riserva Stegher , 2019 vintage
(Blend: 100% Chardonnay)
It appears straw yellow with green reflections.
It releases an intense aroma of vanilla from the glass followed by notes of pineapple, episperma (the sweetness of the skin of boiled chestnuts), white pepper, LPG gas and finishes with hints of juniper berry.
The taste reveals a flavour of ripe pineapple, lemon and a little woodiness .
The body is medium while at the moment the balance is a bit fluctuating between alcohol and freshness.
A savory wine with slightly dry sensations on the upper palate due to the tannins of the wood. Its flavorful persistence is long.
(90–/100)
KELLEREI BOZEN
Riserva Stegher , 2016 vintage
(Blend: 100% Chardonnay)
Expressive effectiveness with straw yellow color.
The initial olfactory opening reveals an intense amber scent followed by notes of ripe pineapple, mint, yeast, white pepper, and pear. The trail finishes with rosemary and sage.
On the palate it displays a sweet note that brings to mind a riper grape.
The body is medium and the wine is savoury.
The balance between alcohol and freshness is slightly fluctuating.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
(89/100)
KELLEREI BOZEN
Riserva Stegher , 2013 vintage
(Blend: 100% Chardonnay)
Chromatic expression of straw yellow with golden reflections.
The nose boasts intense aromas of amber and white flowers reminiscent of hawthorn followed by pineapple and episperm (a sweet woody note reminiscent of boiled chestnut skin).
The palate is pleasant, mellow, and richly flavorful. The body is medium-plus, and the balance between alcohol and freshness is slightly uneven.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
(90/100)
KELLEREI BOZEN
Taber Reserve, 2022 vintage
(Blend: 100% Lagrein)
Deep purple-red coat.
Olfactory stage with aromas of black cherry, mint, hints of licorice and black truffle, finishing with whispers of chocolate.
On the palate it has a sufficient medium body and a cherry flavour.
A well-balanced wine between alcohol and freshness. The tannins are sweet, initially velvety, then slightly drying the upper palate.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
(91/100)
KELLEREI BOZEN
Taber Reserve, 2020 vintage
(Blend: 100% Lagrein)
Intense ruby red and purple color.
Aromas of black olive, black cherry, chocolate, mint, and hints of black pepper and cloves follow one another. The nose closes with hints of peeled tomatoes.
On the palate, it reveals a medium body and flavors of black cherry and chocolate. A well-balanced wine with a freshness that completely envelops the alcohol. The tannins are sweet, silky, and broad (6/6–).
Its taste has a long persistence.
(93/100)
KELLEREI BOZEN
Taber Reserve, 2017 vintage
(Blend: 100% Lagrein)
Intense ruby red-black robe.
A range of olfactory sensations composed of tannery leather, black marasca cherry, boiled rice starch, hints of mint and ending with pleasant whispers of black olive.
Sip with a cocoa powder flavor.
The body is medium, a little elusive, while the wine is balanced with freshness dominating the alcohol content.
The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6) initially velvety and then dry and slightly burn the upper gum.
Its taste has a long persistence.
(90/100)
KELLEREI BOZEN
Taber Reserve, 2014 vintage
(Blend: 100% Lagrein)
On visual examination it presents intense ruby red and purple colours.
The nose evokes aromas of peach leaf, rue leaf, fig leaf, mint, eucalyptus, black cherry, cocoa powder, finishing with hints of peeled tomatoes.
On the palate it reveals a medium body that tends to become a little thinner.
Alcohol and freshness are balanced while the tannins are sweet, quite broad, initially velvety and then drying out the upper gum a little.
Its taste has a long persistence.
(90/100)
KURTATSCH WINERY
KURTATSCH WINERY
BRENNTAL MERLOT RESERVE, vintage 2022
Ruby red with purple highlights appears in the glass.
On the nose it reveals an intense mineral aroma of graphite followed by hints of black truffle, cherry and chocolate and finishing with balsamic whispers of mint.
The mouth is delighted by the flavours of black truffle and chocolate.
The body is medium and the wine is well balanced with freshness dominating the alcohol content.
The tannins are sweet and broad (6/6-), initially velvety and then drying the upper gum a little.
Its taste has a long persistence with a finish of black truffle and chocolate.
(93/100)
KURTATSCH WINERY
BRENNTAL MERLOT RESERVE, 2018 vintage
Intense ruby red colour.
On the nose there is an explosion of black truffle followed by aromas of damp earth, red cherry and medicinal herbs also reminiscent of chinotto.
Cherry and cocoa powder flavor.
The body is medium and the wine has a good balance of flavours with the freshness that completely neutralises the alcoholic edge.
The tannins are sweet, broad (6/6–), initially velvety and then slightly drying the upper gum.
Its persistence is long with a cherry finish.
(93/100)
KURTATSCH WINERY
BRENNTAL MERLOT RESERVE, 2015 vintage
Ruby red tone with a fine pink onion edge.
On the nose, the scent of black truffle overwhelms every other aroma, but gradually and timidly notes of mint, eucalyptus, cherry, rosemary, sage and damp earth emerge.
The taste experience reveals a medium body and flavors of black truffle and chocolate.
Wine well balanced between alcohol and freshness.
The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6+) initially velvety and then drying and burning the upper gum a little.
Its taste has a long persistence with a bitter chocolate finish.
(91/100)
KURTATSCH WINERY
BRENNTAL MERLOT RESERVE, 2011 vintage
Garnet red dress with a fine pink edge.
The olfactory casket upon opening reveals an intense aroma of black truffle followed by mint, eucalyptus, cherry, chocolate, rosemary and sage.
On the palate it has a medium body and flavours of cherries in alcohol and cocoa powder.
Well-balanced wine with freshness that envelops the alcoholic mass, neutralizing it.
The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6) initially velvety and then dry and slightly burn the upper gum.
Its taste has a long persistence with a cocoa powder finish.
(91/100)
KURTATSCH WINERY
BRENNTAL MERLOT RESERVE, vintage 2007
Garnet red shines through from the glass.
Olfactory baggage composed of an intense scent of black truffle followed by cherry, mint, eucalyptus, rosemary, sage, laurel, damp earth, chocolate, medicinal herbs to finish with whispers of lemongrassa .
Bite of black truffle, chocolate and cherry.
The body is medium and the wine is well balanced between alcohol and freshness
The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6–) and velvety.
Its flavour is long and persistent with a finish of cherries in alcohol.
(92/100)
KURTATSCH WINERY
BRENNTAL MERLOT RESERVE, vintage 1997
Transparent garnet red color with a fine orange edge.
Olfactory range of aromas of mint, eucalyptus, candied cherry, light black pepper, nutmeg, light humus, camphor, finishing with hints of Virginia blond tobacco.
On the palate it has a medium-fine body and the wine is well balanced thanks to the freshness that dominates the alcohol mass.
The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6–) and velvety.
Its taste has a long persistence with a cherry finish.
(92/100)
ANTONIO FERRARI CELLARS
ANTONIO FERRARI CELLARS
SOLARIA JONICA, 1959 vintage
(Blend: 100% Primitivo)
On visual examination it has a dark brick colour, intense amber.
From the olfactory casket emerge intense aromas of carob, followed by rust, mint, eucalyptus, liquorice, coffee grounds, cinchona (it reminds me of Ferro China Bisleri liqueur ), amaretto di Saronno, dried date, light spicy notes of black pepper and nutmeg.
The olfactory journey is long, rich and pleasantly varied and continues with intense notes of zabaglione, vegetable stock cube, graphite, dark chocolate and ends with hints of camphor.
Happy, persuasive mouthfeel with flavours of dried plum, dried date and dried black fig.
A well-balanced wine, with a freshness that completely envelops the alcohol, making it well-balanced. The body is medium, and the aromatic finish is intense, with a licorice finish, a large stick of licorice, and a very long zabaglione finish, with a pleasant aftertaste of milk toffee that lingers for a very long time.
You can feel the dryness of the tannins a little on the upper gum in the finish (I think the grapes were vinified with the stalks).
Wine that will never die.
(95/100)
ANTONIO FERRARI CELLARS
SOLARIA JONICA, 1949 vintage
(Blend: 100% Primitivo)
The first bottle opened had obvious cork problems.
The second bottle opened showed a garnet red color very different from that of the 1959.
The aromas are not clean and you can smell an intense stable note followed by an intense rust.
On the palate it is an unbalanced wine and in every way has nothing to do with the legendary 1959.
