For the first time the Les Children du Champagne met in a private home for a champagne tasting.
Our friend Marco Maffei hosted us in his home in Rome. We all gladly accepted his kind invitation. Unfortunately, at the last minute, Roberto Schneuwly informed us he couldn’t attend and was the only LEDC member absent from the evening.
Marco Maffei has organized himself very well because he has recruited two very capable chefs: Alessandro Pillot, a pupil of Gaetano Trovato of the Arnolfo Restaurant in Colle Val d’Elsa, and Bartolomeo Tito who has worked in starred restaurants in Campania.
The problem of the evening might have been finding all the glasses needed for the 13 champagnes . It’s often the case that the wrong glass doesn’t allow you to see the bubbles clearly. This wasn’t the case with us because the glasses clearly showed the size and intensity of the bubbles.
The tasting was blindfolded, the bottles were heavily wrapped in aluminum foil so that the shape of the bottles was not even visible.
Another problem could have been the serving temperature of the champagne, but Marco had actually stocked up on plenty of ice. Everything was perfect. We had a sommelier to serve the wines and a waiter who, along with the two chefs, served the dishes.
With the Amuses Bouche : Chianina tartare , bay leaves and potatoes; boiled meat croquette, pink shrimp, kefir and mint, cuttlefish with its black ragout ; crackers, Romanesco broccoli and confit cherry tomatoes , turbot wings in tempura and Castelluccio lentils . We were served a limited edition Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque 2013, the only exception being the Orizzontale 2008.
The appetizer: “Scampagna, lettuce, passion fruit fruit , ” Amberjack , artichokes and citrus fruits”.
First courses: “Tagliolini, Amberjack , pil pil and black garlic; ” Plin , cheek, Jerusalem artichoke and chicory.”
Second courses: Turbot, olives and Neapolitan escarole, Cinta Senese, carrot and Vin Santo
Dessert: “Crispy puff pastry, pears, sheep’s milk ricotta,” “chiacchiere”!
Last but not least, the pasta with cheese, butter and pepper was a surprise.
The champagnes flowed into the twelve glasses before us. Everything was perfect, and the two chefs were brilliant, captivating and blissful to our palates.
Before describing the champagnes tasted, it is necessary to premise that one bottle is different from another and the same champagne tasted at different times can lead to different evaluations.
MAISON PERRIER JOUET
BELLE EPOQUE SPECIAL EDITION, 2013 vintage
Edition 120 years Sérigraphièe Mischer Traxler
( Blend : 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier )
It shines through the glass with a bright golden yellow colour.
The bubbles are fine and numerous.
From the olfactory casket emerge aromas of rubber, brioche bread, lemon tea, pine resin, yellow grapefruit, white pepper, walnut husk and Piedmont hazelnut.
On the palate it reveals fine bubbles.
The body is medium plus. Rich sapidity and minerality . Flavors also recall green apple, lemon tea, yellow grapefruit, and subtle woody notes . Rich freshness and acidity completely cover the alcohol, making the wine well-balanced.
Its taste has a long persistence.
The tannins of the wood can be felt a little on the upper gum.
A beautiful champagne, slightly different from the same champagne I tasted a few months earlier. Each bottle has its own life and story.
My score 96/100
LEDC Score 94.17/100
MAISON PERRIER JOUET
BELLE EPOQUE, 2008 vintage
( Blend : 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier )
It shines golden yellow.
The bubbles are fine and numerous.
woody , banana peel, floral, grappa, crushed grape and raisin aromas .
The palate delights with the presence of fine bubbles. The wine is medium-bodied and well-balanced, with freshness dominating the alcohol content.
Its flavor is long and persistent, with a lemon and woody finish . The upper gum feels a little dry due to the tannins in the wood.
Again, I emphasize that each bottle has its own story, because the other times I’ve tasted the 2008, I’ve noticed better olfactory and flavor expressions. On June 25, 2019, I gave it a 95/100.
My score 91/100
LEDC Score 92.86/100
MAISON DOM PERIGNON, 2008 vintage
( Blend : 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir)
Bright golden yellow color. The bubbles are fine and quite numerous.
Nose composed of aromas of pear thigh, flint, popcorn , light hints of LPG gas and flowers.
On tasting it has fine bubbles, medium body and is savoury and mineral (flint).
Its generous freshness completely envelops the alcoholic mass, making the wine balanced.
Its intense aromatic persistence is very long with a mineral and chalky finish.
Champagne unmistakable for its minerality .
My score 97/100
LEDC Score 95.43/100
MAISON TAITTINGER
COMTES DE CHAMPAGNE, 2008 vintage
( Blend : 100% Chardonnay)
Bright golden yellow.
The bubbles are fine and quite numerous.
On the nose it releases aromas of flint, popcorn ( for me it is the intense mineral), amber, brewer’s yeast and juniper berry.
On tasting, the bubbles are fine and pleasant.
The body is medium and the beautiful and pleasant freshness makes the alcoholic mass harmless.
Its taste has a long persistence with a mineral finish.
My score 95/100
LEDC Score 94.86/100
MAISON DOM PERIGNON
P2, 2008 vintage
( Blend : 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay)
Golden yellow robe with grey and green reflections.
The bubbles are fine and numerous.
Olfactory richness punctuated by aromas of flint, citrus of mandarin peel, light notes of LPG gas, finishing with puffs of almond shell.
The body is medium and the bubbles are fine. It’s a savory wine with citrus flavors. The freshness completely envelops the alcohol, making it well-balanced.
Its gustatory persistence is long with a finish of mandarin, yellow grapefruit and flint.
My score 94/100
LEDC Score 94.43/100
MAISON LOUIS ROEDERER
Cristal , 2008 vintage
( Blend : 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay)
Golden yellow color, shiny.
The bubbles slowly become fine and quite numerous.
A range of olfactory sensations of intense gamba pear and grappa followed by notes of black pepper and straw.
On the palate, the body is medium and the bubbles are fine. A savory wine with a hint of pear. The freshness completely dominates the alcohol content.
Its intense flavor is long and persistent. The tannins of the wood can be faintly felt on the upper gum.
My score 92/100
LEDC Score 93/100
MAISON KRUG, 2008 vintage
( Blend : 53% Pinot Noir, 25% Pinot Meunier and 22% Chardonnay)
On visual inspection, it presents a bright golden yellow color. The bubbles are fine and numerous.
Olfactory richness punctuated by aromas of graphite, peanut butter, juniper berry and light woodiness .
Beautiful, fine and elegant palate. Medium body and fine bubbles.
A perfect balance of alcohol and freshness. Its intense aromatic persistence is long, with a rich finish of lemon and yellow grapefruit.
My score 95/100
LEDC Score 94.43/100
HOUSE VEUVE CLICQUOT
LA GRANDE DAME, 2008 vintage
( Blend : 92% Pinot Noir and 8% Chardonnay)
It shines in the glass as a golden yellow with gray highlights. The bubbles are fine and numerous.
The nose evokes aromas of banana peel, coconut, sweets from the outside of a candy cane, white pepper, raspberry, flint, and lemon tea, finishing with hints of almond shell.
The palate features fine bubbles, while the medium body offers a citrusy flavor of intense lemon. The palate is broad yet vertical. The freshness clearly dominates the alcohol content.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
My score 97/100
LEDC Score 94.86/100
MAISON BOLLINGER
RD, 2008 vintage
( Blend : 72% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay)
Bright golden yellow color.
The bubbles are fine and numerous.
Nose composed of intense aromas of white pepper and amber followed by pear thigh, almond shell, straw to finish with hints of bass armagnac .
Happy, persuasive mouth with fine bubbles, minerality and flavours of peach, lemon and intense straw.
The body is medium and the wine is well balanced thanks to its freshness.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
My score 95/100
LEDC Score 93.71/100
MAISON J. de TELMONT
Blanc de Blancs , 2008 vintage
( Blend : 100% Chardonnay)
Golden yellow dress.
The bubbles are fine and quite numerous.
The nose is characterised by aromas of green banana peel, straw, grappa, episperm (the sweet woody note that recalls the skin of boiled chestnuts) and ends with aromas of helichrysum (the plant that smells of licorice, mint and chamomile).
On tasting, the bubbles are fine and the wine has a medium body.
The generous freshness silences the alcoholic mass.
The intense aromatic persistence is long with a finish of zabaglione and helichrysum.
My score 93/100
LEDC Score 93.43/100
MAISON DOM PERIGNON
LEGACY EDITION, 2008 vintage
( Blend : 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir)
Shiny golden yellow robe.
The bubbles are fine and numerous.
On the nose, you can perceive aromas of hydrolysate (the powder that makes natural water carbonated), sweet notes of the outside of the candy, flint, raspberry, light notes of nail polish, finishing with wafts of grappa.
On the palate it has fine bubbles, medium body and is very savoury.
Its exuberant and pleasant freshness completely covers the alcoholic mass , thanks also to its minerality .
Its aromatic persistence is long and intense with a finish of flint and chalk.
My score 94/100
LEDC Score 93.71/100
MAISON BILLECART SALMON
CUVÈE NICOLAS FRANCOIS, vintage 2008
( Blend : 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay)
Shiny golden yellow coat.
The bubbles are fine and numerous.
On the nose it is not particularly rich, with aromas of green banana peel, light notes of green olive, lemongrass, plum, brioche and toasted Piedmont hazelnut.
Mouth enchanted by fine bubbles, sapidity and minerality .
The body is medium and the wine, thanks to its abundant freshness, is perfectly balanced.
Its aromatic persistence is long and intense with a mineral finish.
Pleasant drink.
My score 95/100
LEDC Score 93.86/100
MAISON DEUTZ
AMOUR DE DEUTZ, 2008 vintage
Blanc de Blancs
( Blend : 100% Chardonnay)
Bright golden yellow color.
Fine and numerous bubbles.
minerality of flint and popcorn immediately stands out (when there is a lot of minerality I smell the popcorn ), citrus, lime and pear.
The bubbles are fine and slightly present at first, then thin out.
A wine with generous freshness and minerality that overwhelms and makes the alcohol content imperceptible.
The body is medium and its aromatic persistence is long and intense.
Very pleasant champagne.
On 06.25.2019 I tasted this 2008 and I awarded it 99/100 and here is further confirmation that each bottle has its own story .
My score 96/100
LEDC Score 94.57/100
