A few months ago I went to lunch with Bruno and Natascia Rossini, owners, in San Donato in Poggio, of the “Podere La Cappella” company and after tasting and drinking the “Corbezzolo” wine, in the 2013 and 2015 vintages, as well as the merlot in purity “Cantico, vintage 2013” I asked them to be able to make a vertical of Corbezzolo wine, wine produced only in the best vintages. Present at lunch was Professor Ennio Polito, director of the School of Specialization in Ophthalmology at the University of Siena. The company “Podere la Cappella” is very simple and is beautiful for this and perfectly reflects its owners, both in soul and in ways of being.
The company has a consecrated chapel that dates back to 1070 and until the year 1500 it was the parish of Cerbaia, to then become a private church. Recently a beautiful sculpture has been placed next to the chapel, depicting a ballet dancer, created by the master Antonio Manzi. To my request to do this vertical, Bruno Rossini immediately replied yes with enthusiasm. Prof. Polito, passionate about food and wine, offered to host us for tasting, at his own Villa Giuncheto, which is located in Monteroni D’arbia, in Via delle Stine n. 1636. It is a beautiful Villa with 10 thousand square meters of garden, swimming pool, tennis court, soccer field, bowling alley and gym. At first, Prof. Polito had thought of moving with the family and then instead use it as a high-level farmhouse. The whole Villa is tastefully furnished. The villa is also located just 4 km from the new “La Bagnaia” golf course, featuring an 18-hole course. We have all joined this invitation with keen pleasure and interest. We have scheduled the tasting date for February 1st of this year, in the morning at 10 am, to have plenty of time to taste the wines. After the tasting there would have been a rich and succulent lunch by a local lady, employee of the Professor, who cooks, in the old way, in a sublime way, even for the lucky guests of the structure.
On the day of the tasting I, with Bruno Rossini and Sergio Antonini, went to Villa Giuncheto where Prof Polito was waiting for us, who had organized the tasting in a living room of the villa. Sergio and I had the tasting, with absolute calm and tranquility, and then, afterwards, go to the dining room where we had a pleasant lunch with zero kilometer products. Finally I drank the wines subject to the tasting, because it is a good habit not to swallow them during the tastings. After this happy lunch we took a walk in the property, under a warm sun, and then returned to Florence, satisfied with the splendid food and wine day.
The wine subject of the vertical was Corbezzolo which is 100% Sangiovese. The first year of production was 2003. It is a wine that is not produced every year, but in the years considered best. There are about 4000 bottles produced each year. The vertical of all the vintages produced and sold on the market will follow: 2003, 2004, 2006, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2015.
Tasting the wines you understand the difference between the vintages from 2003 to 2009 included and those from 2010 onwards. Since 2010, more attention has been paid to the use of wood and taste balance and the winemaker has changed. Valentino Ciarla is the current oenologist and follows the company since the 2010 vintage. Simple person, of few words but with clear ideas.
Lastly, the “Cantico” wine, vintage 2013, with 100% Merlot grapes was tasted. The bottles produced, every year, are about 3,000, only in the best vintages. 2013 has not yet come on the market. In my opinion it is the best “Cantico” produced to date.
As for the width of the tannin, it is important that it makes the following clarifications, so that it can be understood. I feel the tannin of the wine on the upper gum. The total width of the tannin is 6/6, that is, the entire width of the upper gum. Obviously, if the tannin is less wide, it can be for example 5/6 and so on. The width of the tannin is important when the quality of the tannin is good or high. If the tannin is wider, the wine is more worthy of attention, but the tannin, as I have specified, must in any case be of good quality.
Let’s now describe the wines tasted.
PODERE LA CAPPELLA
CORBEZZOLO, vintage 2003
(Grapes: 100% Sangiovese)
Garnet red mantle with orange border.
Expressive nose with aromas of mint, eucalyptus, cherry, firm cotton (starch), light black pepper, nutmeg, intense porcini mushroom, cold coffee and hay.
When tasted, a medium body and flavors of cherry and dried porcini mushroom are perceived.
Wine balanced between alcohol and freshness, the latter is quite generous.
The tannin is sweet, quite wide (5 / 6-), initially silky and then dried and slightly burnt the upper gum. Its persistence is long with a finish of dry porcini mushroom. When you feel the dried porcini mushroom, in a dominant way, it means that the wine has traveled its life.
CORBEZZOLO, vintage 2004
Intense garnet red with orange border.
It gives intense hints of toasted peanut followed by mint, eucalyptus, light black pepper and nutmeg. Following mild tones of dried porcini mushroom, star anise and dried plum.
The taste is pleasant, you can enjoy a beautiful cherry. The body is medium and the wine is well balanced, alcohol is not perceived thanks to the freshness that dominates it. The tannins are sweet, quite wide and then in the end they dry the upper gum a little. Its persistence is long with a cherry finish.
CORBEZZOLO, vintage 2006
Intense garnet red coat, with orange border.
The olfactory casket opens and releases aromas of toasted peanut, cotton starch, mint, eucalyptus, light dry porcini mushroom, slightly candied cherry and boiled brown with wild fennel.
On the palate the body is medium and the wine is balanced by alcohol and freshness. The tannins are wide (6/6) sweet, initially silky and then dry the upper gum a little in the finish. This is an example of a completely large tannin, but not of great quality.
CORBEZZOLO, vintage 2008
Garnet red with orange border.
Explosive nose with exuberant aromas of black truffle and enamel paint, followed by balsamic notes of mint and eucalyptus, smoked, cherry, sweet tobacco pipe with freeze-dried cherry, tomato preserve, star anise and wild fennel.
On the gustatory examination the body is generously medium and the wine has a good balance between alcohol and freshness, while the tannins are sweet, wide (6 / 6–), velvety, a little aggressive and in the end they dry a little the upper gum . At the beginning you can perceive the cherry flavor that remains even during its long gustatory persistence.
(90 – / 100)
CORBEZZOLO, vintage 2009
Intense ruby red dress, with garnet textures. At the beginning of the olfactory examination, perfumes of toasted peanut, mint, eucalyptus are perceived followed by tones of tomato preserve, sweet pipe tobacco, black pepper, nutmeg, to end with references of starch (starch spray for ironing) .
On the gustatory examination the body is medium and a pleasant cherry flavor is perceived. Quite balanced wine with alcohol and freshness in harmony with each other. The tannins are sweet, quite wide (5/6), initially velvety and then drying the upper gum a little. Its persistence is long with a finish of cherry and sweet pipe tobacco. In the end you feel a little burning throat.
CORBEZZOLO, vintage 2010
Intense garnet red color with fine orange border.
Olfactory profile with notes of toasted peanut, light black truffle, sweets from the outside of the confetti, mint, eucalyptus, boiled chestnut with wild fennel, tomato preserve and smoky puffs.
At the gustatory examination it shows a pleasantly dosed structure. Well balanced wine with the alcoholic mass topped by freshness and tannins.
The latter are sweet, quite wide (5/6), thick, initially velvety and then, in the final, slightly drying the upper gum. Long is its gustatory persistence. Fine and elegant wine.
CORBEZZOLO, vintage 2011
It is tinged with intense ruby red.
It has a pleasant aromatic articulation with aromas of black marasca cherry, intense mint and eucalyptus, black pepper, nutmeg, starch, black truffle and tomato preserve.
The gustatory exam shows a nice medium body and a pleasant cherry flavor. Well balanced wine with freshness and tannins that dominate the alcoholic mass.
The tannins are sweet, quite wide (5/6), initially velvety, and then dry the upper gum a little. Its intense aromatic persistence is long with a ripe cherry finish.
Pleasant wine, more structured than 2010.
CORBEZZOLO, vintage 2012
It is tinged with an intense ruby red color with a fine garnet edge.
Aromatic articulation made of aromas of ripe morello cherry, black pepper, nutmeg, mint, eucalyptus, ember of the wood and tomato preserve.
The taste feels a pleasant cherry, a medium body and a good balance between alcohol and freshness, while the tannins are sweet, wide (6 / 6–), initially velvety and then become a little drying and burning on the upper gum.
Its persistence is long with a finish of cherry and sweet pipe tobacco.
Overall, pleasant wine.
CORBEZZOLO, vintage 2013
Intense ruby red coat with purple textures.
Bewitching nose with aromas of ripe cherry with slight tones of almost candied cherry, mint, eucalyptus, dried tomato, sweet pipe tobacco, black pepper, nutmeg, to end with pleasant puffs of varnish glaze.
The nose feels a medium strengthened body and a pleasant cherry flavor that spreads throughout the oral cavity.
Well balanced wine with the freshness and tannins that dominate the alcoholic mass.
The tannins are sweet, fairly large (5/6 +) and silky. Its persistence is long with a cherry flavor already felt immediately upon tasting. Beautiful drink! The wine expresses all its youth and aging ability. For me it is the best Corbezzolo ever made.
CORBEZZOLO, vintage 2015
Intense purple-black red color.
Fan of olfactory sensations characterized by aromas of fresh cherry, squeezed, tomato preserve, mint, eucalyptus, black pepper, nutmeg and sweet pipe tobacco.
The taste has a medium, pleasant structure with cherry flavor and an excellent gustatory balance given by the freshness and tannins that dominate the alcoholic mass. Tannins are sweet, broad (6 / 6–) and silky.
Its persistence is long with a pleasant cherry finish. Beautiful drink! 2015 does not have the structure of 2013 but is still a very pleasant wine.
PODERE LA CAPPELLA
CANTICO, vintage 2013
(Grapes: 100% merlot)
Intense purple-black color
Articulated and rich in notes of cherry, toasted peanut and black truffle.
Followed by aromas of black pepper, nutmeg, cotton starch, mint, eucalyptus, indian ink and lemongrass.
The olfactory trail continues with tones of tomato preserves, mothballs, fumé, ending with lavender caresses.
All the gustatory examination is accompanied by a pleasant cherry. The body is medium and the wine is well balanced with the imperceptible alcoholic mass thanks to the freshness and tannins. The latter are sweet, fairly large (5/6 +) and silky.
Long is its gustatory persistence with a pleasant cherry flavor. Beautiful drink!
In my opinion this 2013 is the best Canticle ever made, thanks also to the moderate use of wood that has not covered the aromas of the wine.